'wild' animals on the way to Alex

Yesterday I went for a day trip to Alexandria. On the way up the road my friend,Sherif, and I decided to stop on the road at 'Lion Village'.

It was the most bizarre restaurant I have ever been to. We didn't eat, but we walked around the grounds.

They have the strangest assortment of animals I have ever seen together in one place.

Lions, to chickens,

tigers to monkeys,

ducks to hyenas,

cats to tortoises,

turkeys to vultures,

dalmations to lamas,

'toy' dogs to reindeer.

I didn't ask- but I suspect that they breed the pedigree dogs in order to fund the keep of the other animals. I couldn't really workout otherwise why so many dogs of different breeds-and almost all with puppies.

All the animals looked healthy to me ( although I am no expert on the matter!) apart from a couple of the monkeys which were repetativly pacing their (very small) cages.

The big cats looked very healthy- but sad... and again, in really small cages.

The Lions were also in heat. I have never heard a sound in my life like the mating call of a lion- a roar which goes through your stomach like thunder!!!

They do a tourist 'circus' show with the lions for coach loads of tourists... and a group of koreans were there the day we were. We didn't watch the show though- so I couldn't tell you what went on.

The restaurant is reasonably priced- and worth a day trip out in its own right aswell as a fabulous way to break up the trip to Alex.

More utube

The girls who are organising workshops for me in London in March this year have put a promo video online for you all to see how i dance.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGjVSN2CJCw

while I was in utube I had a search for bellylorna- and there are a couple of other entires in there too (ironically filmed the same night!!!)

hope you enjoy.... I'm always so nervous about having video of me dancing.... never ever happy with what I see. Ah well- live and learn!!!

Cairo Circus

Today was another busy day filled with lots of wonderful Cairo moments...

Square burgers at Route 66 in Maadi for breakfast ( i know- burger for breakfast????) anyway.. then after a drive round the pottery area in fustat then I went to Manial, to the Nilometer. not much in there...

but its really old, with a very beautiful ceiling....

and Egyptians get charged a LOT less than tourists! The best thing there though was the peace and quiet. My friend and I sat by the Nile for about 2 hours- just soaking in the silent ( well- lack of 'dousha' anyway!!!) and watching the rubbish float by on the Nile... we saw some odd things. a perfect round of bread, an aubergine, a shoe... you can imagine I'm sure. The sun was shining and it felt nice to be chilling, but not chilly.

Next we went to the Cairo tower. I have NEVER been up this thing before... and always meant to... but its 65le for tourists and only 20le for Egyptians ( managed to get in as Egyptian so pretty chuffed!!!!). The view from up there was stunning... really. I wish we had got there maybe 10 min earlier so we could have fully seen the sunset... but it was still amazing....... highly recommend it.

Orangette in Zamalek is a cafe on Sharia Gabalaya and they do the BEST Oreo Madness dessert ever- its huge.... ice cream fans MUST try this one!!!

Then the big event for the day- the National Circus!



The circus is in a big tent ( no surprises there) on Sharia Nile, in Agouza (just beside the Balloon theatre). We had been told on the phone that the show was 8.30-10.30pm but that wasn't true- it started at 8pm.... and finished 10pm. Tickets ranged from 50le front seats to i think 20le for back. Front seats were worth it!!!

The whole tent smells unfortunatly of urine... assuming its the animals but.... well I wont dwell on that thought. However, the colours of the tent are fabulous- beautiful decor. Live band too througout entire show.

Dont know what we missed out on in 1st 20mins, but we saw clowns, jugglers, acrobats, rope gymnasts, cute dogs jumping hoops and skipping rope , knife thrower, trapise, everything really.... fantastic showmanship... I have seen a few dancers on stage both here in Cairo and abroad who could learn from these circus performers a few things about audience interaction and stagemanship. I think also that being on stage myself means I find it hard now to watch ANY type of show and not try to imagine what life must be like for the people on stage. Imagine being that girl in her hijabb standing in front of the board to have knives thrown around her - and seeing her eyes blink at every throw, and watching the silent prayer uttered through tight lips..... a huge new dimension to the show!



thre were even phtographers going round the crowd (mainly the arabs in the crowd...) with a VERY cute baby lion and a huge snake to wow the crowd and get some more money out of us!

and then there were the lions..........

wow.

beautiful animals. 6 lions and 3 tigers. in one huge cage with one man.... he handled them really well and they all looked well fed and fairly content.... not that I know a lot about these things ( but I had been very worried about that side of things after my trip to the zoo last year!!!). The speical moment in the entire show was one tiger- older and HUGE- did one jump from one podium to another... and I swear time stood still. It was like watching something out a kung fu movie where everything had been slowed down. This massive beast looked weightless in air... possibly the most beauitful thing I have ever seen... I could have watched just that over and over all night. I think that not only did my breathing stop during the second of the jump - but that my heart did too.... truely awesome- in the non american meaning of the word!

People who know me well, know that although I have nothing against animals, and quite like them really- I do not gush over them or even oh and ah much.... However, these huge cats were something else... and to watch this man risk his life in that cage with them and handle himself with such power and control was an experience in itself.

I loved the circus and will go again- inshallah!!!!

An Indian meal to round of a fabulous and interesting day.............

oh Cairo. Never, Ever, Ever boring!

Book Review, long overdue

I was reminded by a friend today that I used to write a lot in here about the books I have read. I haven't done that for a while... partly because I went though a phase of not being able to get my hands on anymore translated arabic novels, that I hadn't already read (I figured most people who read the blog are more interested in these) and partly because I got so carried away with life I forgot that some people really like to know these things!

I feel my blogging standards have gone downwards in direct correlation with the increase of houseguests.........!!! sorry guys..........

so....... my good friend Emily leant me a lovely book which I just finished this week.

A Border Passage
(from Cairo to America-A womans journey)
by Leila Ahmed
published by Penguin Books.

It was interesting on many levels.

firstly- written by an Egyptian woman ( and I meet so few Egyptian women that its hard to believe I actually live in the same country as them- so any insights as to our similarities and differences are always welcome!!!!)

secondly- Leila comes from an educated 'westernised' family and makes some very interesting observations on education and culture in both Egypt and UK, and especially about the way 'europe' as a culture was viewed at that time in Egypt.

thirdly- 'that time' being the years around the revolution.......... with lots of things emotionally , politically , financially culturally going on................

forthly- being interested in womens issues and rights, Leila is writing about all of this from the womans perspective- the discriptions of daily life at home with other women and their various interactions were what glued me to the book.

what can I say? Thanks Emily for lending it to me.......... and I recommend it to anyone interested in Egypt, Egyptian politics, and in what it means to be an Egyptian woman.

Club-hopping in Cairo!

Tonight was mad. I had planned a night in... working on all my many outstanding emails...
then i decided... no- I need to go out.

So I met a friend and we went to La Bodega in Zamalek ( a nice place for a drink and chat in a mixed expat and Egyptian crowd), then to Pub 28 ( which had an older more seditary crowd in it)

Then I called another friend to see if they were free and we went to Mojitos at the Nile Hilton.... That was pretty empty (and they have done a horrible thing- a temporary ceiling with ruffled satin lining- you feel like you are in a coffin!)... then we really began our tour of Cairo's nightspots.

Latex ( Nile Hilton) had a very empty R&B night (seemingly tuesday night is the best night for that!). Sat night ladies get in free- I could see why.

Ritmo in semi Ramis intercontinential looks posh and was also quiet ( granted it was 2am!)

The Buddah Bar at the Sofitel el Gezirah has to be seen.... they have a HUGE statue of a Buddah- right in front of a massive window onto the Nile- it is cultural clash but amazing well done. The restrooms in the hotel foyer are rather lovely too- with terracotta tile with matching colour of grouting (believe me- its worth noting!!!!). That hotel has a lovely terrace area just on the Nile side to sit and smoke sheesha and drink tea - although we were rather late to do either. A very romantic spot though.

Grand Hyatt hotel was next on our 'pub crawl' of Cairo. The Hard Rock Cafe was buzzing... but unfortunatly full of sleezy arabs - by the time we had taken 20 steps inside the place I felt like I had been mentally undressed by the same number of men. NOT nice. It was strange to see a place I consider to be a restaurant done up like a nightclub though... dance floor and DJ. We left sharpish though and went for a play in the lifts!

40th floor at the Hyatt makes your ears pop- really - its like take off in a plane. The revolving restaurant there shuts at 11pm... so we also missed the lounge area there with the water feacture walls.....next time.

Four seasons Hotel (garden city) was just accross the road... so we wandered over to see what they had on offer. They have one bar.. called Zaytouni (olive) , which looked like a hotel waiting lounge- actually all their restaurants do. ( spice, steak esp)- all fairly non excting. There was one restaurnat called Aquas which had beautfiul fish tanks with HUGE fish in them ( animal lovers dont go- i am sure those tanks are not large enough for the fish!!!)

So... we did then conside checking out the other four seaons ( in Giza) but decided it was a little late ( at 3.30m) to see if anyone was in club 35 or in Indigo bar..... so instead.... we went to a new a rather fabulous takeaway food shop in sharia mohiden abdul aziz, mohandiseen, called Abu Kofta. They had a shop in Port Said which proved so good and so popular that they are trying their hand at Cairo now- I believe they even have a website!
Then we sat in the car eating Hawoushi (meat inside bread that is then deep fried-as amazingly tasty as it is bad for you!)

so- all the 5 stars and then end up choosing to eat street food in the car!!!

It was a fabulous night. so much so, that I am just in at 4.20 am and felt I had to write all this down NOW before i forgot all the places we went!

Oh- and did I mention I had a house party on thursday which was so much fun that people would arrive, I'd greet them at the door, then i might see them again 3 hours later- and they had been in my living room the whole time!!! It was great- lots of Salsa, and at least 14 professional bellydancers- well- you can imagine can't you!!!!!

Life is very good just now. el Hamdullah !!!

Do's and Don'ts re Badly Behaved Belly!

What can I say? You have all been wonderful and helpful as ever….. I feel whenever I need an answer to anything at all, my blog readers are out there eager to support me! It seems like I am not the only dancer out there who suffers in this way!
Thank you all… I had so many responses that I have had to compile a list of do's and don'ts so I could make sense if it all………..



Do………….

pills with acidophilus
ginger root tea
licorice tea
massage stomach
one teaspoon of lemon juice in a cup of warm water
peppermint tea
mint tablets
colpermin
propolis -20 drops 3 times a day in water or with a spoonful of sugar
white syrup to protect stomach (Gaviscon?)


Foods to fill me up but not fill up my stomach……..

protein shakes instead of meals before dance
babybel
apple
muesli bars or a cracker.
nuts
raw veg and fruit
seeds
rice noodles


Don't……….

black tea
mint tea ( this one confuses me- lots of you say mint is good- to the point of taking tablets even, yet some say mint is bad???)
ham
tomatoes
fried food
chocolate ( the number 1 thing I live on!)
spicy food
meat
wheat/gluten- ie bread and pasta! ( the number 2 thing I live on!)


Anything I have missed out????

Or of course……………… I can just continue starving myself when i have work and then binging when I don’t have work…. Which is my current answer! Seemingly- according to 'Dina'- don’t eat at all for 6 hours before performing since the stomach can't move properly unless totally empty!

Badly Behaved Belly!

can anyone help me out?

I am sick and tired of my stomach. I just can't seem to eat ANYTHING at all within at least 4 hours of dancing (and even then it still has to be fairly light otherwise I still suffer) . When I say suffer- I mean really truely- i get lightheaded and dizzy, sweat uncontrollably and feel nauseous with severe stomach cramps thrown in. Not nice. I take anti-acids to work with me, but they don't seem to have a great deal of effect, unfortunatly!

now the ideal solution of course is to eat 5 or 6 hours before I dance... which is all well and good... but if I have 6 shows in a day... how can I eat healthily and early enough to last the entire day/night???!!!

so far i try to have my main meal as soon as I wake up.... then live on chocolate between shows to keep the energy levels high, although if I haven't managed to eat in the morning, for whatever reason, then i tend to have a heavy meal just before bed- which isn't ideal either. Small meals or snacks dont even work- even a sandwich or a glass of orange juice can have an adverse effect on me!

I guess what i am looking for is a miracle cure to stop my stomach reacting to the food in the 1st place!

I know lots of dancers who can eat anything at all before they dance and not be affected- its not fair!!! Its driving me crazy........!

last night I danced at 4.30pm, then again at 8pm and again at 10.30pm. doesn't leave much space in the day for food and digestion! However- I am pleased to say, that despite the pain I performed 2 of my best shows ever. Maybe of course it was because rather than despite of the pain- I always find I dance well when the adrenadline is high ( like if I am late, or have people in the audience I really want to impress!)

It was a good night.... just wish my belly would behave!

Any tips????

Happy New Year!!!

I am just about to begin recovering from the festive season...........

Scotland for Christmas was good..... cold... and everyone around me had a cold or flu... but other than that good! Unfortunatly the visit was so short I didn't really get round everyone I had hoped to see- next time!!!!!

Then I get back to Cairo and am boiling hot from the difference in weather from there to here... that lasted all of an hour and then i was back to my normal Cairo winter shiver!!! It was lovely to come back to my busy busy flat! currently 3 girls staying... 2 of them professional dancers and one 'hobby' dancer... makes for some interesting conversations over breakfast (around 5pm usually!!!) and over late night cups of tea ( around 5am usually!!!!). Busy but fun!!!

New year was strange for me.... I had expected to be performing on the boat... but they had altered the schedule so I ended up being free until midnight... and then had 2 gigs after that. I spent the bells, sitting in a car on gamet dowal street putting on my make up as we were driving to my 1st gig of the night!- oh and we had just passed Santa Claus getting out a taxi!!!!

Both of the performances unfortunatly with CD rather than with my band- which I really dont enjoy so much at all. The 1st was on a boat and the stage was tiny and wobbly and the majority of the people in the room couldn't see from where they were sitting. I managed to get the people close to the stage on side... handing me tissues etc etc and dancing in their seats... but overall , personally it was a disappointing show. Lots of people with money- but not much class!

The next venue, a 5 star hotel in the town centre, however was very swanky... lots of both money and class... and the audience (all egyptians) were amoung the nicest I have ever danced for in Cairo! They were just lovely- danced, sang along, clapped along... just generally behaved as an audience should!! Thank you all- you made my new year just perfect and reminded me why I have chosen the life I have!

I was on a total high by the time I finished at 2.30am.... so I went with a few friends to a house party. These people had hired a villa in the middle of nowhere for the night, and had a sound system to rival any nightclub in town... and the techno music was pumping... and everyone was drinking and smoking dope.... and there were all of about 10 people there. Needless to say, we didn't hang around!!!!!!! A drive to the top of the mountian, moqattam, to see the view of Cairo within these 1st few hours of the new year... and then home around 6am.

Last night was a friends birthday- so that was another night of partying from 9pm til 5 am! oh my life is just so horrible....dont you think??? !!!

So... now you can see what I have been up to so far this year- all thats left for me to say is HAPPY NEW YEAR to everyone who might be reading this... I wish you happiness and perfect shimmys for the entirety of 2009..........

Saqqara

Yesterday I went to Saqqara with a couple of friends. I've been before, many times, when i used to organise groups of bellydancers to come over on dance holidays... but I haven't been for years. We had been hoping for sunshine- but for once- a cloudy day in Cairo- we don't get many- so these shots are pretty rare!!!

It was a bit too busy for my liking.( although I accept it doesn't look like it in this photo!!!) ..... but there were memorable moments. Like eating taamia and foul at the roadside and a bus of locals going by shouting out the equivalent of 'cheapskate!!!' - it was very funny! Then you have the guys inside the pyramid complex offering 'taxi' rides on their cadillac donkeys ( the Camel being the limo?).

We went over to the tombs that i have only been inside once before... I forgot how amazing they were......... a few fun pics............

No I haven't altered the direction- these funny wee men are actually doing back bends and high kicks....... whatever the dance was it looks hard work but fun!!!!!!!


This one took a while to work out........ a cow on its back with its feet tied....

But this guy with the big ears if my favourite.......................

yuck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have heard of disgusting taxi driver incidents but thankfully never really been the victim. Yesterday I was.

I had been in khan el khalili, and I got in a taxi to Mohandiseen. The driver waited til we were on the bridge out of that area then wanted to know 'how much'.

I said 20 - should be 15 if no traffic- so figured 20 was fair and good. he went nuts. wanted 35! i refused- said if he didn't like that then stop now and we'd get another taxi. He said had to drive us to end of bridge cos he couldn't drop us on bridge.. and then demanded money- on my refusal...i got out the taxi... still refusing to give him anything since he didn't want a fair price for the journey

...
so he spat in my face!!!!!!!!!!

i was so shocked and repulsed that I didn't think quickly enough to take his number.... furious.

what can I say? i hope his taxi breaks down everyday! yuck yuck yuck.

I love Cairo..... I do I do i do..... yes- I am trying to remind myself of the good things! ( Like fateer at 1am after a night of salsa, dancing for appreciative Egyptian audiences, sunshine in december.......) yes I do love Cairo.

It is worth it. I just wish I could have a day without stress- think that why Dahab was just the break I needed- you could get in a taxi and KNOW he wasn't going to hit on you or swear at you etc etc.

Started up my arabic lessons again....I have a private tutor who comes to the house and is very good and only charges 90le for 2 hours... I had managed to learn to read and write... then hadn't had a single lesson the entire time I have worked at the Pharoahs- so had completely forgotten even the alphabet! Thankfully its coming back , albeit slowly, and am enjoying learning now that i have more confidence to use my arabic more. My grammer is still appalling.... but wahda wahda (one by one- ie step by step!).

wish me luck (in the arabic and also in only getting in nice taxis from now on!!!!!)

St Catherines

It wasn't easy to get to St Catherines from Dahab. I thought it should be, as its only and hour and half away... One bus- leaves 8.30am ( too damn early!!!!), service taxi, ie micro bus leave 11pm at night ( too damn late) and the taxi from the hotel was going to cost 250le!!!!! NO way! In the end a friend managed to baragin a taxi price for me so i got there for 130le.

The taxi driver was a friendly fun guy... although wasnt' shy to tell me that he had his bango (grass) with him and did I want to see it? totally high. thankfully since there wasn't really any traffic on the road it wasnt' too dangerous! He also wasn't wearing a wedding ring and said he didn't have a wife etc etc ( and next day when i came back with my friend Sherif in the car too he had suddenly inherited a wife and ring!!!!!!)

The interesting and stressful part of the journey is all the numerous check points. They check the drivers license about 6 times between dahab and st cats, and they checked mine too. each time saying he couldn't go or shouldn't ( he didn't have a 'taxi' licence for outside of dahab town centre) but if he brought them a phone card or sandwich on the way back that would be ok. All corruption, in the form of call credit!

At st cats there is really nothing apart from the monastary and a couple of shops and a post office. I met sherif who had arrived an hour before on the bus from Cairo and we went to a campsite called the desert fox. the people there seemed really stoned- but very nice and helpful and they fed us and we talked into the wee small hours around a campfire in a bedouin tent. Mostly in arabic ( so that was really nice practise for me- although the bedouin accent is VERY differnt from Cairo!!) The range of conversation topics reflected the vibe of the place; it went from Mobarak ( who they think is close to God) to Van Damm ( something to do with a certain karate kick he can do....) to the great bear in the sky, to demons and devils. wow.

At 1am we left the heat of the fire- put extra layers on - and started our climb to the top of Mt Sinai ( also known as Moses mountain!). We had met a girl from Malasyia (Cindy) and she joined us for the climb. Its a pretty long way ( 2285m high!)- and I was sure my leg muscles were going to give me a lot of trouble, but we took our time and it was fabulous. in the full moonlight the white rock on parts of the cliffs looked like frost or snow... we didn't need our torches until the steps near the top and most of the time we were the only people in sight. Amazing. Almost bumped into camels in the dark! We took the 'camel' route... because although the other way is more direct, with its 3750 steps it was just not an option!!

At the top of Mt Sinai there is a chapel and a mosque. sorry the pic is fuzzy- camera was still on 'mountain' setting!!! Just as we stepped onto the summit the call to prayer started from the mosque ( a small square room with one man inside!) . It was spiritual and uplifting- except that there was a man trying to to rent us blankets (for 20le!!!) and he wouldn't give it a rest so he talked all the way through the prayer which really annoyed me!!! At that point though we were the only tourists on top. Sat night is a quiet night because the monestary is closed on a sunday... and people tend to visit that in the morning when they climb down the mountain... but if all you want to do is watch the sunrise in peace- i really recommend a sat night- esp if you have the full moon to help you find your feet!!!!

The sun took a long time to rise- but it was amazing. The desert mountian looked like a set from Mordor (lord of the rings) and then when the sun was coming up it turned into a Colin Baxter photograph! Very very cold ( but we refused to pay that for a blanket!!!!) but very very uplifting and beautiful!!! I took over 100 photos and then its was hard to choose which to include here because it all felt so amazing. Looking forward to Cindy sending us copies from her camera ( which was far better than mine)! We saw a bedouin waman walk her donkeys up the same path we had been puffing and panting over on the way up- she must be super fit to do that everyday!!!

wonderful , beautiful. I'd do it again! ( but not until my calf muscles have recovered!)

We took the taxi back to Dahab ( so another 130le) but discovered that the guy from the desert fox camp could have got us on a service taxi for 50le each at 11am ( but we didn't know this when we booked our taxi!!!)

Another day of chilling on the beach (- I know- I have a hard life!) then the 10pm bus back to Cairo ( got us in at 6am) Since I had had 4 hours sleep on friday night, then climbed a mountian instead of sleep on sat night, sunday night I slept the entire 8 hour bus journey!!!!!!!!!!

Back in Cairo... and off to Salsa tonight ( trying to loosen up those muscles before work again tomorrow!)

Dahab

for years I have been hearing people talk about Dahab with such huge enthusiasim, yet I always though it was a bit OTT. yeah yeah- its chilled, you relax there.... hmmm..


IT'S true!!!!!!!! I dont know why... but the whole vibe of the place is just complete relaxation. you get NO hassle in the street, the sun is warm, the mood is respect and chill- it was just exactly what i needed to escape Cairo to!

I was nervous about travelling alone in a bus- only because i haven't done that in Egypt before. It was totally fine. cheap ( 75le one way) 8 hours, smoke free bus, AC was too high so I had to wrap myself up... but fine.

The girls came to meet me at the bus station at Dahab and we jumped into a taxi to the hotel- well - actually- we jumped into the flat-back part of a pick up truck which is what they use for taxis!!!!!! What a bizarre way to start the trip!

The hotel was on the Blue hole road, and called Dahab Paradise. It is LOVELY. One of the best organised and well run hotels I have stayed in in Egypt. the view from the balconies and from poolside was pool, palm trees, sea and Saudi Arabia very clearly visable across the water!I felt for the class of hotel it was a very good price too (250le for a twin room, then 300le for a triple) Breakfast was eggs and potato and cheese and pancakes and and- oh I am hungry just now- can't think about all that again!

The only downside of the hotel was that there is a strong wind coming from the water to the poolside- so even when the sun was hot , it wasn't very warm for sunbathing.... can imagine though that in summer that fact would be a huge benefit rather than failure though!!!! We went down to the Blue Hole to find some sheltered sun bathing places. LOTS of divers there- but when i had the dive Blue hole described to me I reconfirmed in my head that I never want to dive! the graves plaques stuck on the walls there of people who have died in the water didn't exactly encourage me either!!!! friends the next day who snorkled said they saw huge barracuda circling them.... yet another reason to really appreciate sunbathing not being in the water!!!!!!

I loved Dahab. Fun people. Relaxed lounging, drink in hand. Dancing the night away. ah- I miss it already! I realised that I haven't had a holiday holiday ( that didn't involve doing workshops, for spending time with family etc) for well over 3 years- in fact probably longer since before that my holidays were always to Cairo from Scotland!!!! I hadn't actually realised how much I needed it. Considering its not so expensive either- I think dahab will be on my 'must do' list far more often!!! Ah- chilled!

taking a break......

3 hours from now I have to head out to the bus station to catch a bus to Dahab. I've never been there... and never travelled around Egypt on my own.. so should be exciting (lets face it- NOTHING in Egypt is boring!). I'm meeting up with girlfriends at the beach and looking fwd to some lovely days in the sun...... just packing now. Sleep will have to happen on the bus (8hour journey... but only 75le!)

I woke up this morning to the smell of blood... the cows are gone... but the gutters run deep with red floodwater. lovely. I am really glad to be getting out of town now- especially once the sun starts hitting those gutters... dread to think what they will smell like in a day or two!!

I enjoyed work tonight. 4 shows total. lots of Italians for some reason in the 1st sail... but almost all Arabs in the second... in very festive spirit!Lots of kids... so the atmosphere was light and fun... one boy ran to hide under the table when I tried to get him up to dance- was very funny!!!!People with brand new babies keep wanting me to hold them and have my photo taken with them.... its hard sometime to pull myself away and back to the dancing again at times!!

One guest on the boat tonight wanted to buy one of my saaidi costumes (the turquoise and gold one) - she said the money was no option- she just HAD to have it....but I couldnt bring myself to do that... Felt wrong somehow...to sell the costume I had just that second been performing in... plus I love it too!!! told her to check out Eman Zaki's website instead!

better go finish the packing.... maybe I'll squeeze in 2 hours sleep before I travel! I've been warned that the AC on the bus is full blast- therefore freezing- but everytime you get out the bus its roasting hot- how to dress for that journey eh?!!!

Not taking the computer with me- so no more blogs for a week... will be strange to be offline for so long- amazing (and more that a touch frightening) how addicted you can get to the internet- so i'm going cold turkey!

oh- and I have a dancer staying with me just now from Mexico who is attending Raqia's winter intensive training course this week 9 which is being held in 6th October city- miles out of town!)- so when i get back my hols I'll pick her brains and tell you all about that!!!!!

Happy Eid to all.......Happy Holidays!

Cows

Its the Big feast again here in Cairo (aka Eid Kabeer)... the 40th day afer the end of Ramadan.
That means that all today people fasted... and tomorrow they will get up for morning prayers then kill something, either a sheep, or a cow ( or a chicken if they dont have much money!)

The festival is a celebration of Abraham's sacrifice- when he was asked to kill his son Isaac, but instead God stopped him and allowed him to use a sheep instead.

The area I live is full of cows right now, on rooftops, street corners and mainly lined up besides the butchers...... last night I couldn't get to sleep for ages cos they were moo-ing for all they were worth...... knowing their fate tomorrow its hard to listen to!!!

Last year, at the same feast, in the area i live in- a man had his 2 cows on the roof of his 7 storey building, he did something which was wrong morally, and religiously- he allowed one cow to see the other being killed. of course cow no.2- went crazy (mad cow) ... ran around and then jumped off the roof. It flew off the building (holy cow) and landed on, and killed, a man below.

Inshallah- no more repeats of THAT tomorrow morning!!!!!(wishing I had some ear plugs for the morning)!!!!

Me- Dubbed! Dancing on the Nile!

A friend found this on utube and pointed it out to me tonight!!!!

It's weird seeing me dance to this music- but it sort of works somehow, in some strange way.... obviously i prefer my own band and the music I am actually dancing to!!!!

The tannoura is Yaseen.

The boat is the Golden pharoah, the Nile, Cairo!!!

( in case the link doesn't come up automatically you can find it on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UX7SjhcM3Hg)

Playing it by ear

I love that in Cairo I can have no plans for a day at all and then it can end up being a totally packed long, interesting day!

For example. Last Saturday I had no plans whatsoever… sitting on the balcony chatting with a friend who'd come to stay from Canada… so we went for lunch (Chillis- an American diner which does the biggest salads you can imagine amongst other things!). Great. My lodger, Christine, then joined us, even better. So far pretty normal anywhere…

Then we went to the BCA (British Community Association) club, which is just walking distance from my place. You pay an entrance fee to get into the bar, and then the drinks are really cheap ( esp. between 6-7pm- the happy hour- 2 for 1- feels just like home!!!!!) Anyway- its not the worlds most exciting of venues.. but its easy, cheap, hassle free.

So Christine and I then decided we wanted to make a night of it (remember at this point I'd only left the house to go for lunch!) . We grabbed a cab to Sawy centre ( the cultural wheel) and took pot luck- what's on tonight? Are there tickets? Oh its started?- great – lets do it! 30le – ok.

We had no idea what to expect and I have to say I didn't expect Anoushka. She was fabulous!!!!!!!!!! She is Cairo born by Armenian parents and she sings like an angel. I just LOVED her voice. But what Christine and I loved even more than that was her sheer talent in performance skills- a true professional. She held the audience in the palm of her hand. She orchestrated her band throughout and danced as well as sang. Not a bad dancer I have to say either- all very much oriental in style (although some salsa footwork going on in some songs!). I was surprised to see someone dance so much while singing- often Egyptian singers feel that to keep their status as singer, rather then the lower status of dancer, they have to stand still to perform ! Anoushka's lighting technician was on the ball too. Lovely figure, beautiful dress, fun, lively, deep personality and of course a range of songs which included ballads, oriental pieces and feisty salsa inspired numbers. The vast majority of the music just frustrated me so much because I desperately wanted to jump out my seat and dance!!! The qanoon player was my favourite in the band. A Wonderful show… I'd go back for more any day. In fact she inspired us both so much that we went surfing online to find out more about her and everything I read just made me feel like I wanted to be friends with this woman! Strong, independent, fun and talented. I'd love to know more of her story!

However, the night did not end there- we wandered over the bridge to the Cairo Jazz Café.. where they were having a talent show! Young bands playing oriental/Arabic music. You could vote for your favourite at the end of the night! Most weren't so great- but 2 bands really stood out… 'el '7hwa' and 'the city band'. Up and coming talent to watch out for in the future! It was very interesting people watching too- esp. the ones who had their mummy's with them- so sweet!

Oh- and then we walked down the road - not something I really recommend to female travelers- not in Mohandiseen anyway- the curb crawling is horrific- and one car nearly ran us over as we tried to cross the road by reversing at top speed just to get a better look at us!!!) Ending up in the 'house of do-nuts' was a little like the equivalent of the chippie or kebab shop back home– what a way to end a day/night out- with a cup of tea and a fresh do-nut!!!!

I'd left the house for lunch at 2pm, and we stumbled back in at 4.30am. That elastic Cairo time just keeps stretching and stretching.

Sorry about lack of photos from these events- since I had expected to only be eating lunch out, I funnily enough didn't take my camera with me- really must learn my lesson from this and carry it around more!

Not a good meeting point!

I know it happens here, I know it happens all over the world, and call me naive... but I was surprised at the openess of the prostitution at the Cairo Sheraton!

when I went there after work on sat night, I had my costume bag with me and was fully made up ( of course coming from work) so I guess i may have looked suspicious... but I got a shock when I walked to the lounge area opposite the reception, where i swear, about 12 guys, mainly arbas- all sitting alone, all sat bolt upright and looked straight at me....... like a family of mear cats! It was frightening- and pathetic. I made a very quick dash back to the reception to stand and wait for my girl friends!!!

Then we sat and watched a girl (in very obvious 'working girl' attire) stand in the centre of the lounge.... look around, then make a phone call.... to which one old guy answered his mobile and she wandered the long way around the lounge and went to sit beside him........... it couldn't be more blatant if she had just shouted out ' which one of you losers booked me then???' !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

seemingly it is not unknown for girls just to cold call rooms in top hotels and hang up if a woman answers and ask if services are required if a man answers.!!!

scary.

But like I say- I guess it happens all over. And at least the remaining guys just restrained themselves to staring at my friends and I , and apart from moving literally to seats opposite so they could stare even more pointedly and annoyingly, they didnt actually approach!

I suggest NOT to arrange to meet female friends in that particular reception point, I certainly wont in future!!!!

Shame on you Sheraton for turning a blind eye.

Egypt's Elastic time

'How do you find living here in Cairo?' Its the question I get asked all the time....

Well…. My answer is always- 'It's never boring!'

It's true. You can have days which nothing seems to happen in, but actually these are just rest periods between the manic, impulsive throbbing of the other days!

Life doesn't have a daily structure, there is no 9-5, no Monday-Friday (or even Sunday-Thursday), well, not in my life anyway…. !

For example, yesterday I woke up in time to teach a private class, 11am.

Then we went to the Nile Group festival, my student and I, so she could buy herself a costume from all the stalls they have there. Since she is only beginning to dance she didn't want to spend a lot and it took hours to sift through all the options ( literally…. ) but she managed to buy a lovely little bra belt, with skirt set for only 400le ( around 40)- Thanks to Eshta discounts!!.

However the day had disappeared doing that, and I had to rush home to get ready for work.
I arrived at 7.15pm… since I was told the guests were arriving at 7.30pm… but they played with the evening program ( it was a private party on the pontoon who were mostly Egyptians and Europeans celebrating that days motor sports competitions and doing their awards ceremony) so I was sat in the ladies toilets ( oh the glamour of it all) until 10pm before going onstage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

3 hours in a loo. Thank god for my friend Emily who took 2 hours out of her Saturday night to sit with me… actually we had quite a laugh, with my dresser giving us her imitations of all the famous dancers styles.. she really is a talented and funny girl!!!

Then the performance…. Lots of fantastic feedback about how they had ever before seen a foreigner dance better than Egyptian etc etc ( one even so brazen to suggest that I could teach Fifi Abdou a few moves- I WISH ! I quickly put that woman right!) … however, it was all very nice to hear… all rush rush rush (after 3 hours waiting) on stage NOW.........

Even my usual structure of work was altered because they decided just as I was starting my tabla solo (The last dance of my show) - that they wanted me to do extra…. So I did the longest tabla solo EVER… actually- it was a fun, interesting challenge to come up with new stuff!!!- and THEN they decided I should have my photo taken with all the finalists of the event, so another song and off I go….!!!

Took a cab 11pm to Sheraton where I sat with 2 lovely dancers from London (who are planning to have me to London in March to teach workshops and perform- watch this space for info!). We had a fantastic time drinking tea, eating chocolate cake and discussing life, men, universe… and of course all things bellydance ( including discussing the idea of opening a nursing home for bellydancers- so that even when we are old and grey we can sit together covered in sequins and listen to the piped arabic music in the toliets!! Shabbi music would have to be banned though- too dangerous to hip joints!!- oh the lengths to which you can take that idea!!!) We had enough to keep us glued there chatting and laughing until 4am!!!!!!!!!!

Bed at the same time as the morning call to prayer. Again.

Very glad I don't have to be up in the mornings to get a child off to school or anything like that though. I don’t think I could exist to a strict 9-5 timetable now, even if my life depended on it!!!!

The time here just seems to stretch and contract depending on what you have to do in it.

Egypt's Elastic time. I love it.

U tube

I thought this might be exciting....

but its only 1min long! so all you get is my transition between saaidi into baladi.... not the drum solo as I had hoped!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLpAY207RB8

Nile Group Festival and Lorna on the Pharoahs!

I can't believe it- the 1st opening night I have missed for ages and ages.... :-(

My friends who attended the opening night of the latest Nile group festival say it was a good night. A singer to start ( wasn't there so can't confirm who) kicked off night before Hanadi, Asmahan and then Lucy all performed. Lucy being the highlight of the night. I am gutted to have missed it.

I've been ill for a few days, UTI- not pleasant- but was impressed with hospital treatment and tests etc. of course NHS in UK is better all the way- BUT although I had to pay for everything here- at least I was seen immediately, no waiting AT ALL.

The main down side is that here the doctors word is LAW- no-one questions his decision.... well, I did! I refused IV pain relief- they seemed to think i was mad and refused to listen to me at first! and then I questioned what every drug was for.... the question was so unexpected that for a long while the doctor couldn't understand it.... eventually with a little medical term dropping by my friend sugrah ( a nurse in UK!) he did answer all my questions, albeit grudgingly! Its an amazing difference between here and UK ,where by law a doctor has to explain all drugs to you and why they are being prescribed!

I felt pricewise I got a very good deal - but I would hate to be on an average Egyptian wage and be in the same situation. I went to emergancy paid 200le for consultation, 25 for urine test, 35 for blood test, 70 for xray and then returned today for an ultrasound- 200le. Ultrasound didn't just do the check for kidney stones- they checked size, shape, normality etc of all the organs!!! very interesting! anyway- I am on the mend... and just need to drink even more water daily than I did anyway ( can't really see how this is possible, but refuse to go through all that pain again!!!!!!!!!!!!)

so all better now and ready to dance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There are a few people calling me who are here attending the fesitval and want to come see me dance while they are in Cairo- so figured i better put my schedule for next 2 weeks online so people can find me!

Come see me dance on the Pharoah boats ........( beside the Four Seasons hotel, Giza- 15mins by taxi, from the hotel hosting the Nile group festival!!!)

19th Nov- Nile Pharoah
20th Nov- Nile Pharoah
22nd Nov- Nile Pharoah

25th Nov- Golden Pharoah
26th Nov- Golden Pharoah
27th Nov- Golden Pharoah
28th Nov- Golden Pharoah

set price for open buffet is 250le.
sail includes my show, tannoura and 'western' band ( and food and cruise ,of course too!)

Times vary- best to check when you book- but make sure you get the boat you want- otherwise you'll have a different dancer!!!
NB- usually Nile Pharoah is 7.45pm sail and sometimes a late sail too. The Golden Pharoah is a 7pm sail and a 9.45pm sail.

Call 02 3570 1000 to book. ( oh and when you book best to say you want a table by the stage if you are coming especially for the dance!)
hope to dance for you soon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Halloween in Cairo

...... was a lot of fun. 'Tana quraya' is halloween in Arabic.

I went to a salsa party night in the Imperial boat, Zamalek ( they have a regular salsa night there now every friday) and for a change I dressed up-

I dont normally do that sort of thing... but Cairo is having a positive influence on my sense of fun. People here do know how to let their hair down!

as the pics can show...............





Actually something which might be of interest to people living here- Salsa nights in Cairo.... where to go to dance the night away...

Monday- Nile Maxim, Zamalek
Tuesday- The Place, Zamalek
Wednesday- Dice Club, Agouza
Friday- The Imperial, Zamalek
Saturday- The Boss pub, Maadi

most start dancing around 10pm ( often with classes prior to that) and have a set enterance price which includes a soft drink. This list is not exclusive... but they are the main big ones in the centre of the city!

Fellow dance blogger

I have a friend here in Cairo who is studying dance in Egypt, in particular social dance rather than professional performance dance, for her PhD.

She has been blogging on her Cairo moments and there are a few entries about me and some of the other dancers she has seen here too!

Since she isn't lving here as such, or working as a dancer here, she can often be more upfront and open about her feelings on certain things than I feel I can be. worth a read!

http://www.skirt.com/blog/7160

Rhanda at the sheraton

When I had my friends over from Scotland to stay last week we were desperate to see Rhanda Kamel......... but unfortuantly she wasn't working any of the nights we were able to go to the Maxim where she is currently performing- so when we heard that the Aladin restaurant in the Cairo Sheraton had Rhanda performing at 10pm we guessed it would be too good to be true- and it was!

The dancers name there is Rhanda - but she was certainly not THE Rhanda!

It was the usual chewing gum routine ( literally!- her jaws moved more than her hips) until she decided to get me up to dance.......i did............ ( and yes- i did- even in those shoes!!!)

after that she thankfully upped the anti somewhat and we got some nice dancing from her.



Funny how knowing you have dancers in the audience can help you raise your bar ( works for me too- I LOVE having dancers come see me!!!!)

It was really funny when we left at the end that they had closed the sign announcing her dancing that night- it was like they had put her to bed- all tucked up! so sweet!

confused.........

ok......... I am amazed and surprised.

my mobile phone was found- in the gardens of the place where it was stolen.... totally fine apart from the battery having been removed!!!!!!

how bizarre is that?

Cairo.... a mad crazy city.. which will often frustrate and annoy and tire you out............ but NEVER bore you!

The day I understand this place and all its goings on....... oh- i dont know. never.

Gutted - again.........

well, now I have time with all my visitors having returned to their normal lives, I had been really looking fwd to settling down to some serious blogging. Unfortunatly the 1st of these is yet again a complaint of breach of trust.

I went to salsa last night at The Place. It's a nice crowd and I like going there because people are so friendly. However, last night my bag was stolen- probably by one of these 'friendly' fellow salsa dancers.

It had my wallet with money and credit cards, my house keys and my mobile phone.

The security eventually found the bag dumped in the grounds outside, still magically with my credit cards in my wallet and my house keys. (Thank God!)

They took 200le- but left me 100le ( I guess they didn't want to be too mean?) and of course the mobile phone ( new - only a month old) is gone. The phone less important than the photos and texts and of course numbers stored on it. wish they had left me the sim card along with the bag!!!!!!!!!

So someone I dance with......... well, in our group anyway, is such a low life theif. I am just too trusting.

One of the guys at salsa was explaining that if I go to the police with my serial number from the phone, then they can track the person that has it as soon as they try to insert a new sim card. I se a HUGE flaw however in this argument- that I would have to go through the trauma of going to the police. well- thats just not going to happen is it?!

Hopefully i will be able to get my own number back- but that will now have to be my job for this afternoon......... but in the meantime- friends- please email me your mobile number- AGAIN!!!

Once I get over this I'll try and blog some of the good stuff thats been happening!

'sex' on the streets

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7682951.stm

I have just read this in the BBC news page and think you should have a look too. why? cos Its daily life here in Cairo. the part I really HATE!
Its constant. I have been taking my 3 female visitors around this crazy city all week... and they love the hussle and bustle.......... but the hassle is another topic altogether!

curb crawled, constant sexual comments- its exhausting. everyday - without fail. children too- the under ten years olds are the ones most likely to go for a grope. tell me- where do they learn that this is ok?????? grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. men. ( actually to call them that is an insult to many men around the world who do understand how to act properly- this behaviour in the streets of cairo is not that of men, but of animals who cannot control their desires and feel its ok to bully and abuse women)

rant over- lots of good stuff here too ( thank god- otherwise I'd be OUT!)
more good stuff to be blogged soon..........

Lubna in scotland!

ok- so I figure I am currently in the best place ever to learn dance.........

BUT Raqia is in UK teaching in JOY this weekend. and Lubna is in Scoltand next month.....

http://www.bellydancedivas.co.uk/index_files/LubnaEdinburgh.htm
"If you want cutting edge Modern Egyptian from a proper full-time choreographer—this is it. The best bellydancers in Egypt have all been coached by top choreographers—now you can enjoy this. Lubna has over 20 years experience of teaching and choreography, and her most famous patron was Nagwa Faoud." Caroline, Bellydance Divas.
Tickets can be purchased through, and contact with Caroline made via the website "BellyDance Divas" <bellydancedivas@hotmail.com> so if you are in Scotland in November- GO!!!!!!!


so I guess if you want to learn from the top - you can in UK too! ( although obviously I am in Cairo hehe!)

Bizzare thing I saw yesterday-
a carpet, ( like a cut off of old carpet) which had been used as a canvas and painted on top off- MOST bizzare!!!!!! they were selling them in the mall in the four seasons hotel! very very strange- I'll try and get in there with my camera to prove it to you at some point!

By the way - for anyone in Cairo just now... I am working EVERY NIGHT ( on the Nile pharoah and Golden Pharoah boats) and pften day time too ! I've done 21 sails in the last 10 days, I am full of the cold and feeling down- and KNACKERED! thankfully the dancing is going ok ( although admit I really didn't do my best tonight) but generally I am having fun on stage. lots of Egyptian and arab women wanting me to kiss their babies ( wish I could - just scared to give this cold to all the infants of Cairo- might end up as a killing of the 1st born!)

oh- tip for going out in Cairo. If you haven't discovered it yet- the Nile Dragon boat ( near my work) has been painted white and turned into a huge Trianon cafe- it has the entire ground floor and you can sit either in the air con- or 'outside' right on the nile. its a 50le minimum charge- but a fab menu and situation! salads in bread basket, soup in bread 'bowl' and caramel cheesecake all highly recommended!

grrr- number frustration

I took my new mobile phone to a shop tonight to get it unlocked- they promised all the data would remain- they WIPED ALL MY NUMBERS!!!!!!!!!! I am stranded!

please- all my friends who read this- please send me an sms to my Egyptian number (or emial me) with your number so I can save it !!!

so- I have had house guests for the last 4 nights- am now alone til thursday when the next lot of guests arrive... and working EVERY NIGHT. really glad to be working though. have a new Org player (what they call keyboards here!) and he is very good- unfortunalty he seems to know different versions of lots of the songs I dance to- so i am improvising on stage a lot more than usual! keeping me on my toes though (literally and figuratively). Also he doesn't yet know my entrance music- which is a shame, cos it was a lot nicer than the one I am having to fall back on! Thankfully i have had a run of really good audiences, so workwise things are going OK.

West Midlands tour

I've been back in Cairo nearly a week now- and there is lots to write about, but 1st a whistle through of my tour in West Midlands!!!

I went down to Birmingham on my last weekend before heading back to sunnier climes, and stayed with a friend there. We went out to do lots of shopping of course!), and what stuck me about the place was this HUGE mix of nationalities. I am not used to that. In Scotland there are so few 'foreign' faces, and also in Cairo- the same. The mix in that part of the UK was stimulating to the eye! In one clothes shop queue, I spied at least 20 different nationalities (despite the fact that they all might actually be 'British' )- it was a long queue!



Out with 2 friends (one Jamacian origin, one Pakistan) we were nicknamed the 'United colours of Benetton'!!!- 3 nationalities together.
The mix is refreshing and interesting and I really enjoyed being part of it.
Maybe even more so after my experiences here in Cairo and at home; one as the minority and one as the majority. It was nice just to be part of the mix.

I performed at a Salsa Brava night one night… went well, I think, most feedback was good anyway. I didn't feel very good about my own dance- but am beginning to accept that maybe I am just a little too much of a perfectionist….

The workshops in Birmingham were fantastic- I REALLY enjoyed myself. We had a fabulous huge venue, fitness first, and the people who came were lovely. I really got into it and enjoyed the workshop possibly more than them (although again feedback was great- so I'll not put words into others mouths). Some emotional moments too.










We had quite an Arabic night… at the Moroccan restaurant, Zagora and there was a dancer there. Not really sure she knew what had hit her though when we all got up to join in!!!!!!!!!

















................ Then, after that, we ended up with a late night at a Syrian restaurant, Syriana, with wine and sheesha and debka dancing.


















A very good night- not sure I got that debka though at all- was laughing my head off the entire time- IMPOSSIBLE to count! was fun trying to talk in Arabic again too- hadn't realised how much I had missed it!

Coventry was a new place for me to teach in, and the teacher based there, Diane Cox was just lovely and supportive, even cancelling a workshop she had planned for that weekend so that she could send all her students to me. VERY supportive and some really lovely dancers there too!

Then my 3rd city in one day… Lisa (a lovely dancer and teacher from Birmingham) had found out about an Arabic night in Manchester so we headed on up to see the 'Nile Band' perform in the Iguana club. I managed to restrain myself at 1st- but before very long I ended up on stage entertaining everyone (surprise surprise!) I really enjoyed myself- LIVE music in UK !!! fab. I was sorely missing my band back in Cairo by this point! I got a lovely reception from the audience, and the band, and it was nice dancing in UK to an audience so enthralled! I was once told, by someone who knew what he was talking about, that I'd never make money from dance- because I love it too much- ie I 'give it away' free. But you know what- I don’t care. Its about so much more than the money! (although I am not knocking that either!!!!)

I made a lovely discovery in Manchester. When I had been watching some of the other ladies up on the dance floor do their thing (before I took over!) I picked out 2 or 3 that I really thought had something special. When I spoke to them after- turns out they go to workshops with my teacher Sara Farouk, whenever she is in Manchester! Amazing how a teachers influence shines though in a good student! Credit to the teacher!!!!

Really enjoyed my time in West Midlands- and looking forward to returning (hopefully in March '09). Thank you to everyone who made that weekend possible, Sugrah, Lisa, Diane, Salsa Brava and all the guys in Zagora and Syriana and in the Nile Band!