Photo taken from my balcony- Orange eat your heart out!!!
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
Middle Eastern geography
you know.......... I realised in conversation tonight, that my knowledge of the middle east and all the countries that make it up, is really pretty shody........... this website however is great fun- why not try it out- match the countries names to their locations on the map!
http://www.rethinkingschools.org/just_fun/games/mapgame.html
http://www.rethinkingschools.org/just_fun/games/mapgame.html
Monday, October 16, 2006
Giant cockroach
Not a real one thankfully... but this was just the moment I wished I'd had my camera on me.... I saw yesterday a van, for exterminators... but designed as a giant cockroach- really- molded metal work all round, a bit like an armadillo- you couldn't even see what model the van had been originally- it was orangey brown shades of paintwork and the wing mirrors were stuck on the end of long antenna which grew out the front of the windshield.... it looked more like a float for the Edinburgh festival cavalcade than a work vehicle!!! Bizarre.
And the other thing I noticed last night, was the poster for the missing man is no longer there. Has he been found? Did the poster fly off in the wind? Is there some other reason- maybe he took it down himself because he doesn't want to be found? I guess I'll never know.....
And the other thing I noticed last night, was the poster for the missing man is no longer there. Has he been found? Did the poster fly off in the wind? Is there some other reason- maybe he took it down himself because he doesn't want to be found? I guess I'll never know.....
Sunday, October 15, 2006
Scottish Music
I'm so glad to be here in Cairo and learning about my own culture- because everything that seems new here in Egypt reminds me of how we do things differently at home in Scotland.
Even to the point of being in a Scottish wedding in St Andrews during my recent visit home, and seeing people up ceilidh dancing, which has never been my favourite thing. The energy and enthusiasm, not to mention the levels of skill, all reminded me of everyone up dancing at an Egyptian wedding- the style is different, and the music… but the enthusiasm is exactly the same. Its all about the socialising aspect of the dance and the fun of it. Not about the technique or the look of it all. Seeing it all from that Egyptian perspective, as it were, gave me a much greater appreciation of my own Scottish heritage…the dance and the music, to the point where I even listened to Scottish folk music on the radio one night while I was driving home to Edinburgh, rather than switching it off as I would have done normally. I even enjoyed it!
I guess you don't appreciate your own country, and what you have there, until you leave it!
Even to the point of being in a Scottish wedding in St Andrews during my recent visit home, and seeing people up ceilidh dancing, which has never been my favourite thing. The energy and enthusiasm, not to mention the levels of skill, all reminded me of everyone up dancing at an Egyptian wedding- the style is different, and the music… but the enthusiasm is exactly the same. Its all about the socialising aspect of the dance and the fun of it. Not about the technique or the look of it all. Seeing it all from that Egyptian perspective, as it were, gave me a much greater appreciation of my own Scottish heritage…the dance and the music, to the point where I even listened to Scottish folk music on the radio one night while I was driving home to Edinburgh, rather than switching it off as I would have done normally. I even enjoyed it!
I guess you don't appreciate your own country, and what you have there, until you leave it!
Egyptian Funerals
Thankfully I haven't had to attend any of these yet…. But I have seen a few. Large tents are erected in public places- often next to a mosque and posters put up about who has died so you know where to attend. When I first arrived I found it difficult to tell the difference between these and the tents often erected for weddings and other festivities! All the men gather in this tent. In Rural Egypt this lasts for 3 days- but in Cairo only for 1. The next of kin sitting by the entrance way to receive the condolences as men arrive. Very little conversation goes on- although that will vary on the social class of the person who has died- it is more respectful to stay totally silent. The whole time the Sheik will read from the Koran and lead prayers….. And that’s it, no talking about the person who has died, or specific mention of him. After the body is washed and wrapped in a white cloth (you are supposed to exit the world exactly as you arrive in it) the men would carry the coffin to the cemetery. The body however is buried directly into the ground, without a coffin. The women would stay behind at home so as to not make a public show of the mourning.
As for the women- sometimes there will be a separate area in the tent for them, but usually they all pile round to the wife/ mother/ daughter of the deceased and make a lot of noise. If the house is not big enough they will all sit on the ground in front of the house (more in rural areas again!) They talk about the person who has died and cry and sometimes (depending on the family again) wail. Often they will sway and repeat over and over the name of the dead person, or 'I lost my brother' or whatever- making it sound more like some sort of tormented poetry (Khalids phrase, not mine). No Wake with drinks and sandwiches and chatting about the dead person. However, women will come round to the grieving woman's house with food and to help with childcare, cleaning etc. Then 15 days after the death often there will be another gathering especially of the women, and often the poor people in the area will be fed. This happens again after 40 days and the men and women all gather and feed everyone (again the men and women are separate) After the 40 days are up however, the dead is dead and you are supposed to move on with your own life... this is part of the reason why graves are supposed to be unmarked. Sometimes however, the family will return to the grave and leave food there for the poor in the area. One reason why it is 40 days is because by then, if it is a womans husband who has died... she by that time knows if she is pregnant or not- so that she doesn't remarry carrying another man's child. 40 days is also the length of time it rained through the great flood with Noah and his ark- Noah in arabic is the name of a person who wails or cries continually.
Most of the rituals of death are shortened and restricted in Cairo compared to outside of Cairo- partially due to the space issues, i.e. tents on every street for 3 days would hinder the traffic even more than normal, plus peoples houses tend to be bigger so the men and women can both fit inside rather than out. Also I am guessing that like any city, although the community spirit is stronger here than many cities in the world, there must also be a higher degree of individuality so not EVERYONE who knew that people would necessarily attend the funeral. Seemingly the people who live outside Cairo think that the people in Cairo have no soul- imagine only spending one day praying for your dead relative instead of 3- so disrespectful!
Who knows- I am still learning about all of this………. there are so many things you take totally for granted in your own culture , right down even to the correct procedure to mourn for someone who dies. It really makes you think about why we do the things we do, and why it may be different in a different country…. Why in Islam it is essential that a body be buried within 24 hrs after death? Well- it makes sense in a hot country doesn't it…. Etc. Not to mention all the differences within a culture- i.e. Cairo habits compared to those in Luxor etc… In Egyptian Black is the colour of mourning, but in Morocco it is white.
Seemingly the ritual is just the same if it is a child who dies. I can't imagine being in that situation where your child dies and then for the next 3 days you don't see your husband because he is sitting in a tent with all the other men. It shows just how huge the difference is between a community based society and our own individual based one in Scotland, where people would pay their respects, then leave the couple alone together to find solace in each other. Something which sometimes couples don't actually master. Perhaps there are strengths in this community based ritual...?
Oh and of course- the above tends to relate to Islamic finerals... but of course then there are the christian ones- which I'll need to ask around about before I can write about!
Why all morbid and talking about funerals? I don't know- maybe that missing man got me thinking…….
As for the women- sometimes there will be a separate area in the tent for them, but usually they all pile round to the wife/ mother/ daughter of the deceased and make a lot of noise. If the house is not big enough they will all sit on the ground in front of the house (more in rural areas again!) They talk about the person who has died and cry and sometimes (depending on the family again) wail. Often they will sway and repeat over and over the name of the dead person, or 'I lost my brother' or whatever- making it sound more like some sort of tormented poetry (Khalids phrase, not mine). No Wake with drinks and sandwiches and chatting about the dead person. However, women will come round to the grieving woman's house with food and to help with childcare, cleaning etc. Then 15 days after the death often there will be another gathering especially of the women, and often the poor people in the area will be fed. This happens again after 40 days and the men and women all gather and feed everyone (again the men and women are separate) After the 40 days are up however, the dead is dead and you are supposed to move on with your own life... this is part of the reason why graves are supposed to be unmarked. Sometimes however, the family will return to the grave and leave food there for the poor in the area. One reason why it is 40 days is because by then, if it is a womans husband who has died... she by that time knows if she is pregnant or not- so that she doesn't remarry carrying another man's child. 40 days is also the length of time it rained through the great flood with Noah and his ark- Noah in arabic is the name of a person who wails or cries continually.
Most of the rituals of death are shortened and restricted in Cairo compared to outside of Cairo- partially due to the space issues, i.e. tents on every street for 3 days would hinder the traffic even more than normal, plus peoples houses tend to be bigger so the men and women can both fit inside rather than out. Also I am guessing that like any city, although the community spirit is stronger here than many cities in the world, there must also be a higher degree of individuality so not EVERYONE who knew that people would necessarily attend the funeral. Seemingly the people who live outside Cairo think that the people in Cairo have no soul- imagine only spending one day praying for your dead relative instead of 3- so disrespectful!
Who knows- I am still learning about all of this………. there are so many things you take totally for granted in your own culture , right down even to the correct procedure to mourn for someone who dies. It really makes you think about why we do the things we do, and why it may be different in a different country…. Why in Islam it is essential that a body be buried within 24 hrs after death? Well- it makes sense in a hot country doesn't it…. Etc. Not to mention all the differences within a culture- i.e. Cairo habits compared to those in Luxor etc… In Egyptian Black is the colour of mourning, but in Morocco it is white.
Seemingly the ritual is just the same if it is a child who dies. I can't imagine being in that situation where your child dies and then for the next 3 days you don't see your husband because he is sitting in a tent with all the other men. It shows just how huge the difference is between a community based society and our own individual based one in Scotland, where people would pay their respects, then leave the couple alone together to find solace in each other. Something which sometimes couples don't actually master. Perhaps there are strengths in this community based ritual...?
Oh and of course- the above tends to relate to Islamic finerals... but of course then there are the christian ones- which I'll need to ask around about before I can write about!
Why all morbid and talking about funerals? I don't know- maybe that missing man got me thinking…….
Saturday, October 14, 2006
That man...
Well, since I know all of you will have been holding your breathe for this- I now know what the A4 poster outside the iftar tent was all about. It could have been a license for the tent. It could have been the person who had donated the tent/food ( although that would have gone against the teachings of the Koran since when giving to charity the left hand is not supposed to know what the right hand is doing). It could have been the family of someone who had died donating food in his honour. However, it was a missing person... not seen in over a week and people obvioulsy getting worried about him (either that or it was the authorities after him and posing as the worried family!!!) anyway- I know you'll be so relieved to know what it was all about.
The friend who read the poster for me (since my arabic script reading has not improved any!) also then told me a story about a British man, out drinking with his friends in Cairo.... gets completely drunk, walks home , along the autostrad (motorway) on his own and doesn't turn up for the following night of drinking. They don't start to worry until he doesn't show for work 3 days later and which point they call round all the hospitals , morgues etc etc no trace. After searching non stop for a week, they recheck a morgue they had asked on the first day and sure enough- there he was, and had been the whole time (don't you love Egyptian efficiency!). Since he had no ID on him at the time of the accident- whatever happen- likely he stumbled out infront of some truck, no-one knew who he was. Just as well his friend took such an interest!
moral of the story- don't walk drunk along the motorway, and if you do- make sure you have some ID on you and most importantly make sure you have friends in your life who would care enough to notice if you disappeared!
The friend who read the poster for me (since my arabic script reading has not improved any!) also then told me a story about a British man, out drinking with his friends in Cairo.... gets completely drunk, walks home , along the autostrad (motorway) on his own and doesn't turn up for the following night of drinking. They don't start to worry until he doesn't show for work 3 days later and which point they call round all the hospitals , morgues etc etc no trace. After searching non stop for a week, they recheck a morgue they had asked on the first day and sure enough- there he was, and had been the whole time (don't you love Egyptian efficiency!). Since he had no ID on him at the time of the accident- whatever happen- likely he stumbled out infront of some truck, no-one knew who he was. Just as well his friend took such an interest!
moral of the story- don't walk drunk along the motorway, and if you do- make sure you have some ID on you and most importantly make sure you have friends in your life who would care enough to notice if you disappeared!
Wednesday, October 11, 2006
Bellydance classes in Cairo
In case anyone reading this is in Cairo and wants to attend classes I am currently teaching- heres the details- some of the times have changed due to Ramadan.
Maadi - Studio in the sky. rd215, Digla. Drop in class. Tel- 010 1500 902
Tues 11am and Sun 5.30pm
Dokki Giza- Golds Gym (must be member of Golds) Tel- 748 0003
Thurs 1.30pm and Mon 3.30pm.
of course...... I'm available for private classes too if you can't make the times and places above..........!
Maadi - Studio in the sky. rd215, Digla. Drop in class. Tel- 010 1500 902
Tues 11am and Sun 5.30pm
Dokki Giza- Golds Gym (must be member of Golds) Tel- 748 0003
Thurs 1.30pm and Mon 3.30pm.
of course...... I'm available for private classes too if you can't make the times and places above..........!
Back in Cairo...
I've not been back 24hrs yet….. It feels like I never left! I forgot how hot it is here. Just existing, never mind achieving anything is an accomplishment in these temperatures! I felt proud of myself because I managed to get to the exchange place and also to the supermarket- wow- small goals!!! Mind you- have spent the whole evening cooking- chopping vegetables while you are sitting on a balcony watching the sunset just doesn't seem like a chore!!! Hopefully a couple of days resting after my manic home visit last week will shift this cold- Cairo colds are officially worse than Scottish ones- this is 2 and half weeks now of sniffles and aches- bah humbug!
2 out of the 3 local money exchange offices were shut- wonder if this is a Ramadan effect or not…… oh and just along the street from me a whole huge section of the pavement has been sectioned off with tenting style material….. There are pictures of a mosque all along it, and just at the entrance there is a photo of a man's face on an A4 poster. They were obviously setting up to serve Iftar, with big industrial sized pans at the ready and tables all laid . On the area of grass just beside it a small gathering of men were all sitting trying to look like they weren't waiting for the food to start…………… Who the man in the picture is, I don't know, its reminds me of the funeral tents where people go to sit and remember and pray for the person who has just died… but perhaps that was the man who had sponsored that particular tent or food for that day. I don't know- but I'll ask around!!!
As for the traffic……. It did seem to get distinctly busier in the hours approaching sunset, and 10 minutes after the sun had set there wasn't a single car on the street outside my house! Walking home just as the sun was getting low in the sky I could see deliveries being made, of canteens of food, to all the policemen sitting on watch outside the embassies/banks etc. They were organizing them, sharing them out and guarding them as if they were little pots of gold.
I want to dance…….. I'm desperate to dance. Maybe because I want what I can't have- i.e. 'no performing in Ramadan'- so that’s exactly what I want to do! I can't remember ever dancing around my flat quite as much as I have done this evening. However, nothing gives me that excitement and satisfaction that I get from performance adrenaline. 2 weeks of dancing 4 nights per week at Morocco Walima has increased the levels of adrenaline in my body and I have withdrawal symptoms already!
Off to boogie about some more…………………!
2 out of the 3 local money exchange offices were shut- wonder if this is a Ramadan effect or not…… oh and just along the street from me a whole huge section of the pavement has been sectioned off with tenting style material….. There are pictures of a mosque all along it, and just at the entrance there is a photo of a man's face on an A4 poster. They were obviously setting up to serve Iftar, with big industrial sized pans at the ready and tables all laid . On the area of grass just beside it a small gathering of men were all sitting trying to look like they weren't waiting for the food to start…………… Who the man in the picture is, I don't know, its reminds me of the funeral tents where people go to sit and remember and pray for the person who has just died… but perhaps that was the man who had sponsored that particular tent or food for that day. I don't know- but I'll ask around!!!
As for the traffic……. It did seem to get distinctly busier in the hours approaching sunset, and 10 minutes after the sun had set there wasn't a single car on the street outside my house! Walking home just as the sun was getting low in the sky I could see deliveries being made, of canteens of food, to all the policemen sitting on watch outside the embassies/banks etc. They were organizing them, sharing them out and guarding them as if they were little pots of gold.
I want to dance…….. I'm desperate to dance. Maybe because I want what I can't have- i.e. 'no performing in Ramadan'- so that’s exactly what I want to do! I can't remember ever dancing around my flat quite as much as I have done this evening. However, nothing gives me that excitement and satisfaction that I get from performance adrenaline. 2 weeks of dancing 4 nights per week at Morocco Walima has increased the levels of adrenaline in my body and I have withdrawal symptoms already!
Off to boogie about some more…………………!
Monday, October 02, 2006
'Home'
Oops- well- I have done it half a dozen times now- whilst talking with Khalid, my parents and my sister I have on numerous occasions called Cairo 'home'. It didn't go down well. I guess it's because i know i am only here for 2 weeks (only one left now too!) so this is the holiday and that is the getting on with it place.
It really is wonderful seeing everyone here again. Baby Sam is a delight, growing up very fast and clapping his hands together for the first time yesterday in front of the whole family at Alisons surprise birthday party. I'm not sure whether i prefered seeing him do that- or watching my sisters face as she proudly watched him!
I miss the space of my apartment in Cairo, there just seems to be so much stuff here in my flat- but then i don't miss the waking up alone, thats not so good. I miss the sunshine, and the music- and sitting on my balcony listening to the sounds of Cairo. Was getting used to the call to prayer timing my day.
Dancing in Edinburgh is wonderful when so many of my friends and students come along to see me. Thats lovely. However i really miss the build up in excitment levels in the audience in Egypt when you go from either the 'baladi' or 'melody' section in the music into the saaidi section- where everyone knows whats coming up in the music, as well as you do, and they are already either up on their feet or clapping - and all you have to do is keep the hip drop heavy and in time to the beat for them to be 100% on your side. I miss that. But I love chatting with my audience in Edinburgh the way i am not yet free to chat , due to my limited arabic, in Cairo.
So - halfway through my visit home from 'home'........... strange to feel such a strong bond with a city, especially when you know no matter what you do, you could live there your whole life and never really fit in. However there is something in the air there ( or maybe the lack of something- oxygen!) that makes me feel so alive. I'll be going back for more next week!!! All this fresh air here in sunny/rainy/warm/cold (all at the same moment) Scotland is going to my head!
It really is wonderful seeing everyone here again. Baby Sam is a delight, growing up very fast and clapping his hands together for the first time yesterday in front of the whole family at Alisons surprise birthday party. I'm not sure whether i prefered seeing him do that- or watching my sisters face as she proudly watched him!
I miss the space of my apartment in Cairo, there just seems to be so much stuff here in my flat- but then i don't miss the waking up alone, thats not so good. I miss the sunshine, and the music- and sitting on my balcony listening to the sounds of Cairo. Was getting used to the call to prayer timing my day.
Dancing in Edinburgh is wonderful when so many of my friends and students come along to see me. Thats lovely. However i really miss the build up in excitment levels in the audience in Egypt when you go from either the 'baladi' or 'melody' section in the music into the saaidi section- where everyone knows whats coming up in the music, as well as you do, and they are already either up on their feet or clapping - and all you have to do is keep the hip drop heavy and in time to the beat for them to be 100% on your side. I miss that. But I love chatting with my audience in Edinburgh the way i am not yet free to chat , due to my limited arabic, in Cairo.
So - halfway through my visit home from 'home'........... strange to feel such a strong bond with a city, especially when you know no matter what you do, you could live there your whole life and never really fit in. However there is something in the air there ( or maybe the lack of something- oxygen!) that makes me feel so alive. I'll be going back for more next week!!! All this fresh air here in sunny/rainy/warm/cold (all at the same moment) Scotland is going to my head!
Friday, September 29, 2006
Dundee+Fife Workshops
Its strange being home- I don't mind telling you I really miss the sunshine everyday... although it is really nice to see so much green. Fantastic seeing Khalid, my family and friends again- Shame its such a short visit and I can't see more of everyone though. Really glad so many people are coming into Morocco Walima to see me perform. Its is such a wonderful feeling dancing for friends (makes up for the audience not being full of over-excitable Egyptians!!!!)
anyway- Caroline has now confirmed the venue and details for the Dundee and Cuper workshops- please contact her directly to book! I'm repeating myslef putting this into the blog again- but just so everyone knows!!!!
Sat 7th Oct
Dundee - 12-2pm, Energie Fitness Club, Douglasfield, Douglas road, Dundee, DD4 8LF. £18
Cupar, Fife - 3-5pm, Yvonne Gray School of Dance, short lane, crossgate, Cupar. £15
Both these workshops will be aimed somewhere around Improver/Intermediate level- beginners with some experience welcome and more advanced dancers may still enjoy getting some insight into the 'Cairo way' of doing some of the moves!!!contact Caroline for info, map and booking form on carodans@hotmail.com
see you soon
Lx
anyway- Caroline has now confirmed the venue and details for the Dundee and Cuper workshops- please contact her directly to book! I'm repeating myslef putting this into the blog again- but just so everyone knows!!!!
Sat 7th Oct
Dundee - 12-2pm, Energie Fitness Club, Douglasfield, Douglas road, Dundee, DD4 8LF. £18
Cupar, Fife - 3-5pm, Yvonne Gray School of Dance, short lane, crossgate, Cupar. £15
Both these workshops will be aimed somewhere around Improver/Intermediate level- beginners with some experience welcome and more advanced dancers may still enjoy getting some insight into the 'Cairo way' of doing some of the moves!!!contact Caroline for info, map and booking form on carodans@hotmail.com
see you soon
Lx
Thursday, September 28, 2006
Walima workshop sun 8th oct
Hello everyone!
well- the workshops have been popular-
the intermediate class 1.30-3.30 is completely full now. However, the take up of the beginners class 11-1 has been very slight- so i have decided since the demand is there to change the level of the 11-1pm workshop to a General level- ie suitable for improver level through to intermediate (not beginners!!!!). If anyone has put their name down for the 1.30-3.30 class but would prefer this earlier one (similar subject matter!!!) then let me know so I can open up spaces in that one.
There are 2 SPACES ONLY left in the advanced level class....
I'll be emailing out booking forms today to those who have requested them with the new workshop details on them too...
Workshop details for Dundee and Cupar on sat 7th oct will be confirmind and posted here in the next day or so- sorry for the delay (my fault for keeping my coming home such a surprise!!!)
see you soon- at workshops or in Walima one night!
well- the workshops have been popular-
the intermediate class 1.30-3.30 is completely full now. However, the take up of the beginners class 11-1 has been very slight- so i have decided since the demand is there to change the level of the 11-1pm workshop to a General level- ie suitable for improver level through to intermediate (not beginners!!!!). If anyone has put their name down for the 1.30-3.30 class but would prefer this earlier one (similar subject matter!!!) then let me know so I can open up spaces in that one.
There are 2 SPACES ONLY left in the advanced level class....
I'll be emailing out booking forms today to those who have requested them with the new workshop details on them too...
Workshop details for Dundee and Cupar on sat 7th oct will be confirmind and posted here in the next day or so- sorry for the delay (my fault for keeping my coming home such a surprise!!!)
see you soon- at workshops or in Walima one night!
Monday, September 25, 2006
Surprise !
Lorna (of Cairo!) in Edinburgh!!!
I'm home as of tonight........ although just for 2 weeks.
I was missing everyone too much- had to come back for a visit!!! Sorry for keeping it a secret but I didn't warn you all because I was frightened that I may have to change my plans (because of performances here) at the very last minute (wouldn't want to disappoint anyone!)- and it was a secret even from Khalid til this weekend!!! Plus since not much performance work thoughout Ramadan in Cairo, I need to get some money in the bank to help fund the next 6 months out there!!!! so........
Lorna performing in Edinburgh, Sept +Oct;
If you want to see me perform (in some of my new costumes!!) I'll be pulling rank and doing all the Morocco Walima nights I can while I'm around;
wed 27th, thurs 28th and fri 29th Sept (not 30th- got a wedding that night!)
wed 4th, thurs 5th, fri 6th and sat 7th Oct.
So please come and see me so I can catch up with everyone!!!!
Plus;
Weekend of Workshops with BellyLorna !!!
Sat 7th Oct
Dundee - 12-2pm, Energie Fitness Club, Douglasfield, Douglas road, Dundee, DD4 8LF. £18
Cupar, Fife - 3-5pm, Yvonne Gray School of Dance, short lane, crossgate, Cupar. £15
Both these workshops will be aimed somewhere around Improver/Intermediate level- beginners with some experience welcome and more advanced dancers may still enjoy getting some insight into the 'Cairo way' of doing some of the moves!!!
contact Caroline for info, map and booking form on carodans@hotmail.com
Sun 8th Oct
at Morocco Walima (3a1 Dundas st), Edinburgh
Beginners/Improvers ( ie doing basics- but cairo style!) 11-1pm
Improvers/Intermediate (combinations and technique) 1.30-3.30pm
Advanced (and by this I mean people who are currently performing on a regular basis and/or teaching only please. Musical interpretation technique and how to move your audience- performance skills!) 4.30-6.30pm
all these Walima workshops will be strictly limited to 15 people max- so if you want to come please email me urgently to get your name down and I'll email you the booking form bellylorna@hotmail.com. Price for each one will be £15 , please make cheque payable to 'Lorna Gow Dance' or if paying by cash please also pay in advance of workshops- payment must be received in advance in order to reserve your place (sorry to be so stict- but since I'm limiting numbers I want to make sure everyone gets a fair chance!)
Also I will be available for private classes- just drop me a line if you are interested....
Thats it for now- really excited about being back in Scotland!!!- hope to see most of you over the next 2 weeks!!
I'm home as of tonight........ although just for 2 weeks.
I was missing everyone too much- had to come back for a visit!!! Sorry for keeping it a secret but I didn't warn you all because I was frightened that I may have to change my plans (because of performances here) at the very last minute (wouldn't want to disappoint anyone!)- and it was a secret even from Khalid til this weekend!!! Plus since not much performance work thoughout Ramadan in Cairo, I need to get some money in the bank to help fund the next 6 months out there!!!! so........
Lorna performing in Edinburgh, Sept +Oct;
If you want to see me perform (in some of my new costumes!!) I'll be pulling rank and doing all the Morocco Walima nights I can while I'm around;
wed 27th, thurs 28th and fri 29th Sept (not 30th- got a wedding that night!)
wed 4th, thurs 5th, fri 6th and sat 7th Oct.
So please come and see me so I can catch up with everyone!!!!
Plus;
Weekend of Workshops with BellyLorna !!!
Sat 7th Oct
Dundee - 12-2pm, Energie Fitness Club, Douglasfield, Douglas road, Dundee, DD4 8LF. £18
Cupar, Fife - 3-5pm, Yvonne Gray School of Dance, short lane, crossgate, Cupar. £15
Both these workshops will be aimed somewhere around Improver/Intermediate level- beginners with some experience welcome and more advanced dancers may still enjoy getting some insight into the 'Cairo way' of doing some of the moves!!!
contact Caroline for info, map and booking form on carodans@hotmail.com
Sun 8th Oct
at Morocco Walima (3a1 Dundas st), Edinburgh
Beginners/Improvers ( ie doing basics- but cairo style!) 11-1pm
Improvers/Intermediate (combinations and technique) 1.30-3.30pm
Advanced (and by this I mean people who are currently performing on a regular basis and/or teaching only please. Musical interpretation technique and how to move your audience- performance skills!) 4.30-6.30pm
all these Walima workshops will be strictly limited to 15 people max- so if you want to come please email me urgently to get your name down and I'll email you the booking form bellylorna@hotmail.com. Price for each one will be £15 , please make cheque payable to 'Lorna Gow Dance' or if paying by cash please also pay in advance of workshops- payment must be received in advance in order to reserve your place (sorry to be so stict- but since I'm limiting numbers I want to make sure everyone gets a fair chance!)
Also I will be available for private classes- just drop me a line if you are interested....
Thats it for now- really excited about being back in Scotland!!!- hope to see most of you over the next 2 weeks!!
Sunday, September 24, 2006
Thursday, September 21, 2006
Ramadan in Cairo....
So that’s the background about Ramadan in the previous blog- The reality on top of all of that is that the shops and supermarkets look like those at home a month before Christmas- non food stuffs are moved to the back to allow lots of space for dried fruit (apricots, dates and figs esp.) and nuts- every type! It is hard to believe when you see the shops that it is a time for NOT eating! However, Families will get up before sunrise to share Suhoor- a meal before the fast begins and each day at iftar (breaking of the fast) people gather together, friends and family and eat and talk and pray together. It is a very important time for Muslims for the social implications as well as the religious ones…
And talking shops- the streets are full of shiny glass and brass lanterns called- Fanoos. They are all shapes and sizes and families light them in their homes during iftar and throughout Eid.
This will be my first Ramadan in Cairo- so I have been asking everyone how it's different from the rest of the year.
Seemingly the roads are quiet most of the day but are at a complete standstill from 3pm until sunset with everyone trying to get home to break the fast. Also people can be more bad tempered (I suspect this time is especially difficult for all the chain smokers in Cairo!, not to mention those who can't exist without that first morning coffee!!!) I have heard of a British tourist, walking down the street downtown, during Ramadan who was sworn at and had the cigarette torn from his mouth and stamped on!!
Also the timetables of classes, schools even business opening hours change slightly to allow people less hardship through the day and so they can iftar with family. Often Mosques will open their doors each day at sunset to feed the poor…. It is also a time more than any other, of giving to charity….all the local magazines have articles and ads plugging one charity over another just now!
Oh and of course all the Bellydancers are out of a job at this time of year- unless they are lucky enough to be foreign- and working on a boat for tourists only- then they can still work. Most use this time to travel and to prepare their new show for after Eid.
So, these are just the things I have heard- I'll get back to you with my observations of how life changes in Ramadan in Cairo once I have experienced it!
And talking shops- the streets are full of shiny glass and brass lanterns called- Fanoos. They are all shapes and sizes and families light them in their homes during iftar and throughout Eid.
This will be my first Ramadan in Cairo- so I have been asking everyone how it's different from the rest of the year.
Seemingly the roads are quiet most of the day but are at a complete standstill from 3pm until sunset with everyone trying to get home to break the fast. Also people can be more bad tempered (I suspect this time is especially difficult for all the chain smokers in Cairo!, not to mention those who can't exist without that first morning coffee!!!) I have heard of a British tourist, walking down the street downtown, during Ramadan who was sworn at and had the cigarette torn from his mouth and stamped on!!
Also the timetables of classes, schools even business opening hours change slightly to allow people less hardship through the day and so they can iftar with family. Often Mosques will open their doors each day at sunset to feed the poor…. It is also a time more than any other, of giving to charity….all the local magazines have articles and ads plugging one charity over another just now!
Oh and of course all the Bellydancers are out of a job at this time of year- unless they are lucky enough to be foreign- and working on a boat for tourists only- then they can still work. Most use this time to travel and to prepare their new show for after Eid.
So, these are just the things I have heard- I'll get back to you with my observations of how life changes in Ramadan in Cairo once I have experienced it!
What is Ramadan exactly...
Well, everyone knows that Muslims fast for one month every year- the month of Ramadan. The exact dates vary every year- but is the 9th month of the Muslim calendar (they use a lunar calendar- we use the solar one which is why the date changes each year). It is the month the Quran was supposed to be sent down to the prophet Mohammed (while he was walking in the desert) from heaven (via the angel Gabriel). This time is supposed to be a time of religious contemplation- taking time out from the usual concerns of life to focus on God (Allah).
During the daytime- ie all hours between sunrise and sunset, Muslims are supposed to Sawm (fast) They are not supposed to eat, drink, smoke or have sex. Part of the idea being that, while you are hungry and thirsty, you are more likely to be mindful of the hardships of the poor. It also gives you the chance to practice self control and cleanse the body and mind (a detox!) However all the good that is done by fasting is wiped out by various things; During this month, even more than others, Muslims are supposed to aim to refrain from sex, lies, violence, anger, greed envy, sarcasm, lust and gossip.
Those exempt from fasting are children, elderly, ill, pregnant women, and women who are at that time menstruating. Also those in battle or traveling are exempt. If however the reason for missing days is not permanent (eg when a women has her period) that person is supposed to make up the 'lost days' at some point though the year- before the next Ramadan. If however someone breaks the fast by having sex during daytime- they are supposed to make up the days by fasting 60 consecutive days for one days transgression!!!!
At the end of Ramadan there is a huge 3 day feast called Eid el fitr (feast of fast breaking) Food is take in excess and family and friends all meet up and gifts , especially for children, are exchanged ( a lot like our Christmas!)
But before this- on one of the last ten nights of Ramadan- often considered to be the 27th day of Ramadan, there is the night of power (Laylet al-Qadr) - the night is supposed to be when the Quran was given to Mohammed and some Muslims will stay up to pray all this night since it is also supposed to be the night when god decides on the way of the world for the next year (makes up his diary!).
During the daytime- ie all hours between sunrise and sunset, Muslims are supposed to Sawm (fast) They are not supposed to eat, drink, smoke or have sex. Part of the idea being that, while you are hungry and thirsty, you are more likely to be mindful of the hardships of the poor. It also gives you the chance to practice self control and cleanse the body and mind (a detox!) However all the good that is done by fasting is wiped out by various things; During this month, even more than others, Muslims are supposed to aim to refrain from sex, lies, violence, anger, greed envy, sarcasm, lust and gossip.
Those exempt from fasting are children, elderly, ill, pregnant women, and women who are at that time menstruating. Also those in battle or traveling are exempt. If however the reason for missing days is not permanent (eg when a women has her period) that person is supposed to make up the 'lost days' at some point though the year- before the next Ramadan. If however someone breaks the fast by having sex during daytime- they are supposed to make up the days by fasting 60 consecutive days for one days transgression!!!!
At the end of Ramadan there is a huge 3 day feast called Eid el fitr (feast of fast breaking) Food is take in excess and family and friends all meet up and gifts , especially for children, are exchanged ( a lot like our Christmas!)
But before this- on one of the last ten nights of Ramadan- often considered to be the 27th day of Ramadan, there is the night of power (Laylet al-Qadr) - the night is supposed to be when the Quran was given to Mohammed and some Muslims will stay up to pray all this night since it is also supposed to be the night when god decides on the way of the world for the next year (makes up his diary!).
Clocks change
I just found out that the clocks change here too!!! Tonight in fact. They are going back one hour- so until the clocks change in UK there will only be a one hour difference instead of two!
Seemingly they are supposed to change the first Thursday in October but Ramadan starts this weekend (sat or sun- depends on the moon!) so they are changing the clocks this week, a week early, so people can iftar (break their fast) earlier!! Mind you, it seems fair since it is still horrific temperatures to be fasting in- Rabena Ma3ahom (god be with them) when Ramadan is in August!!!
Seemingly they are supposed to change the first Thursday in October but Ramadan starts this weekend (sat or sun- depends on the moon!) so they are changing the clocks this week, a week early, so people can iftar (break their fast) earlier!! Mind you, it seems fair since it is still horrific temperatures to be fasting in- Rabena Ma3ahom (god be with them) when Ramadan is in August!!!
going religious
Just a wee religious aside…………
Rabena Ma3ak = Our God with you (or be with you).
So Rab in Arabic is God………..
so who is Rab. C then????
Rabena Ma3ak = Our God with you (or be with you).
So Rab in Arabic is God………..
so who is Rab. C then????
Tuesday, September 19, 2006
me ...Again
It does seem a bit self-obsessed, writing about 'me' all the time and posting photos of 'me'- but I guess that is really what a blog is about! (that and its what you keep asking me to put in!!!) So here you go- yet another photo of me (this time looking like I am receiving a message from above!!!)
Monday, September 18, 2006
words of a child
Among some of the things I miss a lot since coming to Cairo is hearing all the stories in my classes of what is going on in peoples lives.... and of course telling you all my stories! Just in case you are missing my stories heres one-
This is from an email I received this week which made me fill up. With reference to my Hafla in March in Edinburgh, where I danced with the wings, this is what one mum just told me her 6 year old daughter, Mollie, had said...
When you came out to do your dance with the wings she lent across to me and said, “See Mum – I told you Lorna was an angel”.
God Bless her- I read it and didn't know whether to laugh or cry!
This is from an email I received this week which made me fill up. With reference to my Hafla in March in Edinburgh, where I danced with the wings, this is what one mum just told me her 6 year old daughter, Mollie, had said...
When you came out to do your dance with the wings she lent across to me and said, “See Mum – I told you Lorna was an angel”.
God Bless her- I read it and didn't know whether to laugh or cry!
The Good Stuff- part 2
It's lovely having so much good stuff to write that it needs 2 blogs rather than just one!!!
It's lovely learning to appreciate my own company- I have always surrounded myself with people so much and always been so busy- but now if I get an evening or a day to myself I really quite enjoy just staying in.
It's lovely ordering Pizza Hut via the internet and getting a huge pizza and dessert for under a fiver, and within half an hour.
It's lovely discovering old friends here! - turns out that Sylvia (who used to organize the classes at Edinburgh university for me years ago) has recently moved here to teach.
It's lovely when you receive really unexpected shows of trust and friendship.
It's lovely seeing live music. Haven't had a chance recently- but being able to go most night to see live bands, bellydancers or Sufi show or Zar… there is always something on. And It's lovely having time to actually go see it all!
It's lovely being around so much life. The town is constant- people are in the streets, on the bridges in their cars- lots of noise and chaos- but it all seems to work. There is a vitality here which is hard to compare to other places- I guess maybe Edinburgh during the festival comes close… but this is 12 months a year.
It's lovely taking people round and actually getting into the places at residents rates- not just for the financial reasons but since it really helps me feel like I have got a life here- I'm not just another tourist anymore.
It's lovely having so many visitors... Khalid, Christine, Elspeth, Harriet, Nick, Sugrah, Jackie, Surannah + Mohinda, Aline + Alan, Margaret and Irene. Taking them around and showing them 'my Cairo'.
It's lovely surprising people – "looks there' a foreigner dancing/teaching…… oh, she can actually dance!"
It's lovely munching on fresh guava while I type my blog on the balcony. 12 for under 50p.
It's lovely being able to afford a cleaner!
It's lovely buying new costumes- even if I can't afford them!
It's lovely feeling I am learning so much about the dance- not necessarily new moves or technique (although obviously those too) - but how to dance for an Egyptian audience, how to feel and express the music, how to have fun performing, how to appreciate Arabic music from understanding more about the way of life. Learning how to dance without having to 'prove myself' every time.
It's lovely knowing that I don't HAVE to stay here if things go wrong or get too much…….. that I have lots of people back home supporting me though my time here but who would be equally glad to have me return. Thanks guys!
It's lovely knowing that some of you out there are actually interested in my Cairo waffle!
It's lovely learning to appreciate my own company- I have always surrounded myself with people so much and always been so busy- but now if I get an evening or a day to myself I really quite enjoy just staying in.
It's lovely ordering Pizza Hut via the internet and getting a huge pizza and dessert for under a fiver, and within half an hour.
It's lovely discovering old friends here! - turns out that Sylvia (who used to organize the classes at Edinburgh university for me years ago) has recently moved here to teach.
It's lovely when you receive really unexpected shows of trust and friendship.
It's lovely seeing live music. Haven't had a chance recently- but being able to go most night to see live bands, bellydancers or Sufi show or Zar… there is always something on. And It's lovely having time to actually go see it all!
It's lovely being around so much life. The town is constant- people are in the streets, on the bridges in their cars- lots of noise and chaos- but it all seems to work. There is a vitality here which is hard to compare to other places- I guess maybe Edinburgh during the festival comes close… but this is 12 months a year.
It's lovely taking people round and actually getting into the places at residents rates- not just for the financial reasons but since it really helps me feel like I have got a life here- I'm not just another tourist anymore.
It's lovely having so many visitors... Khalid, Christine, Elspeth, Harriet, Nick, Sugrah, Jackie, Surannah + Mohinda, Aline + Alan, Margaret and Irene. Taking them around and showing them 'my Cairo'.
It's lovely surprising people – "looks there' a foreigner dancing/teaching…… oh, she can actually dance!"
It's lovely munching on fresh guava while I type my blog on the balcony. 12 for under 50p.
It's lovely being able to afford a cleaner!
It's lovely buying new costumes- even if I can't afford them!
It's lovely feeling I am learning so much about the dance- not necessarily new moves or technique (although obviously those too) - but how to dance for an Egyptian audience, how to feel and express the music, how to have fun performing, how to appreciate Arabic music from understanding more about the way of life. Learning how to dance without having to 'prove myself' every time.
It's lovely knowing that I don't HAVE to stay here if things go wrong or get too much…….. that I have lots of people back home supporting me though my time here but who would be equally glad to have me return. Thanks guys!
It's lovely knowing that some of you out there are actually interested in my Cairo waffle!
The Good Stuff
Ok- so last blog was all about the not so good stuff here….. so why do I like it so much and why am I extending my 6 month stay to probably more like a year!!!
It's lovely getting into taxi's to hear the sounds of Om Kalthoum coming at you from the stereo
It's lovely watching the sunset every night from my balcony and seeing the sky change through all the colours before the whole place comes alive with the sound of the call to prayer.
It's lovely watching the boats on the Nile, and the rowers, and water-skiers, and fishermen (women!) etc etc day and night.
It's lovely hearing all the latest pop songs coming from the weddings across the Nile- who needs a stereo?!
It's lovely getting the opportunity to write my blog, read books, go to a gym, see friends, watch fantastic dancers….
It's lovely dancing in front of Egyptians- hearing their positive comments and feeling like I have achieved something over all these years.
It's lovely speaking in Arabic to someone and being totally understood. (Ok- so doesn’t happen often- but defiantly more often than it used to!)
It's lovely meeting new people all the time- people come to Cairo from all over the place for all sorts of interesting reasons- I feel my horizons have widened! I've met dancers, writers, archeologists, aid workers, teachers, reporters, fitness trainers, in fact- you name it- not many occupations left to meet!
It's lovely being missed- I get so many emails from friends, family and students back home that it is heartwarming!
It's lovely having such a large flat and space to move.
It's lovely working with musicians- for my saaidi number at a wedding on Saturday night I had a drummer and Mizmar player follow me out into the hall and follow me round the tables- fantastic feeling.
It's lovely to have a standing ovation for a drum solo- wow- what an ego boast! (I'll never be able to come home at this rate- my head will be too big to get onto a plane!)
It's lovely having old women cry and kiss you because it’s the only way they can describe to you how much they love your dancing! (Not so lovely when the old men try to do the same!!!)
It's lovely teaching Egyptians- at the same time as learning from them the feel of the dance. So much more sexy and flirtatious and fun than it is at home- a real female bonding experience. Half the girls in my class today are veiled- yet when its just girls together there really is no barriers. No young, no old, no good, no bad- just all women together having fun.
It's lovely having teachers, dancers, musicians and costume designers at the doorstep.
It's lovely waking up knowing that, without a doubt, the sun will be shining! I love not feeling cold!
It's lovely watering my plants as I look over to the pyramids in the morning.
It's lovely to have as much free time as I do here and to socialize as much as I do. At home I teach so many hours that friends hardly get a look in- sorry guys.
It's lovely getting into taxi's to hear the sounds of Om Kalthoum coming at you from the stereo
It's lovely watching the sunset every night from my balcony and seeing the sky change through all the colours before the whole place comes alive with the sound of the call to prayer.
It's lovely watching the boats on the Nile, and the rowers, and water-skiers, and fishermen (women!) etc etc day and night.
It's lovely hearing all the latest pop songs coming from the weddings across the Nile- who needs a stereo?!
It's lovely getting the opportunity to write my blog, read books, go to a gym, see friends, watch fantastic dancers….
It's lovely dancing in front of Egyptians- hearing their positive comments and feeling like I have achieved something over all these years.
It's lovely speaking in Arabic to someone and being totally understood. (Ok- so doesn’t happen often- but defiantly more often than it used to!)
It's lovely meeting new people all the time- people come to Cairo from all over the place for all sorts of interesting reasons- I feel my horizons have widened! I've met dancers, writers, archeologists, aid workers, teachers, reporters, fitness trainers, in fact- you name it- not many occupations left to meet!
It's lovely being missed- I get so many emails from friends, family and students back home that it is heartwarming!
It's lovely having such a large flat and space to move.
It's lovely working with musicians- for my saaidi number at a wedding on Saturday night I had a drummer and Mizmar player follow me out into the hall and follow me round the tables- fantastic feeling.
It's lovely to have a standing ovation for a drum solo- wow- what an ego boast! (I'll never be able to come home at this rate- my head will be too big to get onto a plane!)
It's lovely having old women cry and kiss you because it’s the only way they can describe to you how much they love your dancing! (Not so lovely when the old men try to do the same!!!)
It's lovely teaching Egyptians- at the same time as learning from them the feel of the dance. So much more sexy and flirtatious and fun than it is at home- a real female bonding experience. Half the girls in my class today are veiled- yet when its just girls together there really is no barriers. No young, no old, no good, no bad- just all women together having fun.
It's lovely having teachers, dancers, musicians and costume designers at the doorstep.
It's lovely waking up knowing that, without a doubt, the sun will be shining! I love not feeling cold!
It's lovely watering my plants as I look over to the pyramids in the morning.
It's lovely to have as much free time as I do here and to socialize as much as I do. At home I teach so many hours that friends hardly get a look in- sorry guys.
Thursday, September 14, 2006
Photo shoot results
some more pics of me..... Not photo-shopped!!! Amazing what good make up and a good photographer can achieve!!
How Egyptian do I look?!!!
what no-one tells you....
No-one tells you that it'll be this hard.
There are so many wonderful things about life in Cairo, and in so many ways I am really happy and excited still about being here, even after 5months there are so many good things and interesting happenings…. But….
It's hard every morning having to check when you get dressed in the morning that what you wear isn't going to offend anyone, overly interest anyone, be cool yet covered and not show sweat.
It's hard not making any eye contact with anyone you pass in the street, because you know that if you do it'll mean they feel they automatically have the right to 'a piece of you'- even if its just the 'welcome to Cairo', or the 'you are beautiful'…… never mind the rest of the comments- or kerb crawling….
It's hard always having to have enough small change for every taxi journey, knowing that you'll probably still end up having the same argument as always- you knowing you are already paying more than an Egyptian would, but the driver still being dissatisfied with that, thinking that you, as a tourist, have so much more money than them.
It's hard being comfortable with the fact that my elevator sticks midday between floor 16 and 17…… and remembering always to have my mobile on me – just in case!
It's hard persuading Egyptians that yes- a Scotswomen can dance (obviously not hard if they actually get a chance to see me!!!!)
It's hard remembering that woman cannot live by chocolate and water alone…. But I certainly try!
It's hard remembering to drink triple the amount of water I would at home.
It's hard remembering not to say please and thank you all the time- even in Arabic. People here tell me that it is always really obvious spotting the British tourists / ex-pats, because we are too polite!
It's hard seeing my only nephew, Sam, grow up over MSN and not being able to hug him.
It's hard being away from Khalid- Thank God for MSN.....
It's hard living alone for the first time. Although I haven't read as many books ever in my life- always a plus side.
It's hard refusing work- but I have to- so many people want me to teach and I am so frightened of getting myself into the same pattern of life as at home with classes so filling my days that I have no time to improve me… 4 classes per week at the moment- plus privates….
It's hard going to Arabic class everyday, spending a fortune on classes and feeling that my Arabic is improving only in crawling steps- often going the same directions as wee Sam- ie backwards!
It's hard learning by rote- apart from maybe the alphabet and then my times tables at school I don't remember having to learn anything ever by rote- but the lists of verbs and all the conjugations drive me up the wall!!
It's hard continuing to speak Arabic to people when they continue to answer you in English. Thank god for Ahmed and Mohammed- my taxi drivers who help me and correct my grammar very patiently!
It's hard not being in control- at home if I want something done I do it. Here in Egypt, there is so much waiting around for other people to come through for you.
It's hard just waiting- they do it so well here- sitting around for hours. They get so surprised and amused when you lose your patience
It's hard learning to distrust everyone- or at least to take EVERYTHING that’s said with a pinch of salt…. So many broken promises. I hate becoming so cynical and having to wait until my patience increases!!!
It's hard meeting women. So easy to meet men, but after spending 9 years teaching full time and being surrounded by hundreds, literally, of women every week feeling alone so much of the time is hard. Miss all my girls!
It's hard having to be waxed, filed, and made up etc etc all the time. Image is everything here, unfortunately.
It's hard performing in a wig, outside, when the temperature is over 30degrees even at midnight- like wearing a woolie hat and scarf to sunbathe in!
It's hard justifying all the money spent on new costumes when I still do not have a regular contract for work- I'll put on some photos as soon as I get them!
It's hard dancing less….. both time wise here- after so many teaching hours in Scotland and performing all the time at Walima etc just physically less hours here, but also when I do perform to remember that it is an Egyptian audience not a British one- less moves, more attitude!
It's hard not to get totally chuffed and excited when Egyptians in my audience (esp. when its women making the comment!) compliment me on my dancing and assume I must have Arabic parents at least….
It's hard not being able to be totally open about my work here and the situation I am in….
It's hard even getting near the red tape never mind breaking through it.
It's hard to believe I have been here so long already and that my original time limit is almost up….. I'll be here now probably until at least next April- i.e. a year instead of 6 months!
It's hard ending this list…………………………..and have any of you who have managed to get to the end of it, appreciate that I am still very happy here, and want to be here and am so glad I have had this opportunity!
I'll do a list with more of the good stuff next time!!!
There are so many wonderful things about life in Cairo, and in so many ways I am really happy and excited still about being here, even after 5months there are so many good things and interesting happenings…. But….
It's hard every morning having to check when you get dressed in the morning that what you wear isn't going to offend anyone, overly interest anyone, be cool yet covered and not show sweat.
It's hard not making any eye contact with anyone you pass in the street, because you know that if you do it'll mean they feel they automatically have the right to 'a piece of you'- even if its just the 'welcome to Cairo', or the 'you are beautiful'…… never mind the rest of the comments- or kerb crawling….
It's hard always having to have enough small change for every taxi journey, knowing that you'll probably still end up having the same argument as always- you knowing you are already paying more than an Egyptian would, but the driver still being dissatisfied with that, thinking that you, as a tourist, have so much more money than them.
It's hard being comfortable with the fact that my elevator sticks midday between floor 16 and 17…… and remembering always to have my mobile on me – just in case!
It's hard persuading Egyptians that yes- a Scotswomen can dance (obviously not hard if they actually get a chance to see me!!!!)
It's hard remembering that woman cannot live by chocolate and water alone…. But I certainly try!
It's hard remembering to drink triple the amount of water I would at home.
It's hard remembering not to say please and thank you all the time- even in Arabic. People here tell me that it is always really obvious spotting the British tourists / ex-pats, because we are too polite!
It's hard seeing my only nephew, Sam, grow up over MSN and not being able to hug him.
It's hard being away from Khalid- Thank God for MSN.....
It's hard living alone for the first time. Although I haven't read as many books ever in my life- always a plus side.
It's hard refusing work- but I have to- so many people want me to teach and I am so frightened of getting myself into the same pattern of life as at home with classes so filling my days that I have no time to improve me… 4 classes per week at the moment- plus privates….
It's hard going to Arabic class everyday, spending a fortune on classes and feeling that my Arabic is improving only in crawling steps- often going the same directions as wee Sam- ie backwards!
It's hard learning by rote- apart from maybe the alphabet and then my times tables at school I don't remember having to learn anything ever by rote- but the lists of verbs and all the conjugations drive me up the wall!!
It's hard continuing to speak Arabic to people when they continue to answer you in English. Thank god for Ahmed and Mohammed- my taxi drivers who help me and correct my grammar very patiently!
It's hard not being in control- at home if I want something done I do it. Here in Egypt, there is so much waiting around for other people to come through for you.
It's hard just waiting- they do it so well here- sitting around for hours. They get so surprised and amused when you lose your patience
It's hard learning to distrust everyone- or at least to take EVERYTHING that’s said with a pinch of salt…. So many broken promises. I hate becoming so cynical and having to wait until my patience increases!!!
It's hard meeting women. So easy to meet men, but after spending 9 years teaching full time and being surrounded by hundreds, literally, of women every week feeling alone so much of the time is hard. Miss all my girls!
It's hard having to be waxed, filed, and made up etc etc all the time. Image is everything here, unfortunately.
It's hard performing in a wig, outside, when the temperature is over 30degrees even at midnight- like wearing a woolie hat and scarf to sunbathe in!
It's hard justifying all the money spent on new costumes when I still do not have a regular contract for work- I'll put on some photos as soon as I get them!
It's hard dancing less….. both time wise here- after so many teaching hours in Scotland and performing all the time at Walima etc just physically less hours here, but also when I do perform to remember that it is an Egyptian audience not a British one- less moves, more attitude!
It's hard not to get totally chuffed and excited when Egyptians in my audience (esp. when its women making the comment!) compliment me on my dancing and assume I must have Arabic parents at least….
It's hard not being able to be totally open about my work here and the situation I am in….
It's hard even getting near the red tape never mind breaking through it.
It's hard to believe I have been here so long already and that my original time limit is almost up….. I'll be here now probably until at least next April- i.e. a year instead of 6 months!
It's hard ending this list…………………………..and have any of you who have managed to get to the end of it, appreciate that I am still very happy here, and want to be here and am so glad I have had this opportunity!
I'll do a list with more of the good stuff next time!!!
Saturday, September 02, 2006
sparkles
I couldn't resist taking these photos...... so many pretty sparkly things! Feast you eyes on this aladdins cave!
will write more soon.... !
will write more soon.... !
Costume shop photos
Some Pics taken in Mahmoud's shop in Khan el Khalili. Thought these may be of interest to some and bring back memories for others .... beautiful colours!
Sunday, August 27, 2006
Metro and numbers
The transport around Cairo I'm sure leaves a lot to be desired.... but it does seem to cope remarkably well with the vast numbers of people needing to move around. The Traffic moves in such a way that many more cars can drive down one street at the same time as would be possible in Uk. Roads rarely are at a complete standstill. Mainly because there are no set rules about road lanes or waiting to let people out.... you all just go..........oh and toot your horn if you think someone who hasn't seen you needs to know you are there. (lots of horn blowing goes on!)
The metro here is great. Very clean, and efficient, and cheap. The first 2 carriages in each train are reserved for women only so you don't have to be pressed up against sweaty men..... Which is not a nice experience here as a woman!!! In the women's carriages you often get chatting and laughing with people there, or at least with their kids! There are currently 2 lines which cross at Sadat (underneath Tahrir Sq, beside the Egyptian Museum) and at Mubarak (underneath Midan Ramsis- one of the main reason the great statue had to be moved was the vibrations from here!) and you can almost get to the pyramids on them. It's definitely the cheapest (50pt = less than 5p) and easiest way to get to the area Mar Girgis where all the old Coptic churches are (another of the places the Virgin Mary is said to have stopped at in her journey). The nearest stop to me is at the Cairo Opera House.... which is about a 15min walk away. I should use it more really.
Here's a rather lovely photo my friend Nick took at the Mar Girgis stop. While he was here he became taken with the numbers....... and could translate all the car number plates by the time he left faster than I can!!! Although arabic script runs from right to left, the numbers are written and pronounced left to right, ish..... so 354 becomes 3 hundred and four and fifty. Very confusing!!!
The metro here is great. Very clean, and efficient, and cheap. The first 2 carriages in each train are reserved for women only so you don't have to be pressed up against sweaty men..... Which is not a nice experience here as a woman!!! In the women's carriages you often get chatting and laughing with people there, or at least with their kids! There are currently 2 lines which cross at Sadat (underneath Tahrir Sq, beside the Egyptian Museum) and at Mubarak (underneath Midan Ramsis- one of the main reason the great statue had to be moved was the vibrations from here!) and you can almost get to the pyramids on them. It's definitely the cheapest (50pt = less than 5p) and easiest way to get to the area Mar Girgis where all the old Coptic churches are (another of the places the Virgin Mary is said to have stopped at in her journey). The nearest stop to me is at the Cairo Opera House.... which is about a 15min walk away. I should use it more really.
Here's a rather lovely photo my friend Nick took at the Mar Girgis stop. While he was here he became taken with the numbers....... and could translate all the car number plates by the time he left faster than I can!!! Although arabic script runs from right to left, the numbers are written and pronounced left to right, ish..... so 354 becomes 3 hundred and four and fifty. Very confusing!!!
Saturday, August 26, 2006
stolen mobile
This is a quick blog to say my Egyptian mobile phone was stolen , from a 5 star hotel, last night....... Sods.
So main reason for this is so people who don't know my home number or email can contact me, since I, obviously, have lost all your numbers too (especially my friends from Arabic class!!!) ............ my email is bellylorna@hotmail.com
So main reason for this is so people who don't know my home number or email can contact me, since I, obviously, have lost all your numbers too (especially my friends from Arabic class!!!) ............ my email is bellylorna@hotmail.com
Friday, August 25, 2006
Ramsis of Cairo in the News today
Last night I had an extra long taxi journey- why? because the roads stopped last night for the great Ramsis!!! In Ramsis square, in front of Ramsis train station, has stood for over 50 years a giant statue of the pharaoh Ramsis ........
Last night they moved him so he doesn't get destroyed by the pollution and the vibrations from the trains........and perhaps so they can change the road layout of one of the most traffic jammed areas in the city.
Feelings here are very mixed- some happy that at last the future of such an important piece of art is being considered.... some really upset to have him removed from their daily lives, and others just wondering what 'they' are going to rename the square and train station!!!!
I know that my taxi driver on the way home was really excited about it 'Ramsis is coming, Ramsis is coming!' he kept saying! The roads were lined with onlookers, just waiting til the huge truck crept past, There were ever roads signs up everywhere showing the route he would take that just said 'Ramsis' with an arrow pointing the way (made me think of Gulliver on Lilliput island!!)- ....... oh, and never before have I seen soooooo many policemen lining the streets! It was an expectant and charged atmosphere, and that was me just seeing the people wait- not actually watching him drive by!
Not really sure what the thinking was in doing it on a thursday night...... I guess because on friday morning the roads are really quiet- but it made for an interesting thurs night when the cars are at standby anyway!
for more details see http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/middle_east/5282414.stm
Last night they moved him so he doesn't get destroyed by the pollution and the vibrations from the trains........and perhaps so they can change the road layout of one of the most traffic jammed areas in the city.
Feelings here are very mixed- some happy that at last the future of such an important piece of art is being considered.... some really upset to have him removed from their daily lives, and others just wondering what 'they' are going to rename the square and train station!!!!
I know that my taxi driver on the way home was really excited about it 'Ramsis is coming, Ramsis is coming!' he kept saying! The roads were lined with onlookers, just waiting til the huge truck crept past, There were ever roads signs up everywhere showing the route he would take that just said 'Ramsis' with an arrow pointing the way (made me think of Gulliver on Lilliput island!!)- ....... oh, and never before have I seen soooooo many policemen lining the streets! It was an expectant and charged atmosphere, and that was me just seeing the people wait- not actually watching him drive by!
Not really sure what the thinking was in doing it on a thursday night...... I guess because on friday morning the roads are really quiet- but it made for an interesting thurs night when the cars are at standby anyway!
for more details see http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/middle_east/5282414.stm
Monday, August 21, 2006
Recycling
What a lot of people don't know is that Egypt has a very high rate of recycling. In the centre of Cairo, at the foot of Mokattam, live the garbage collectors of this enormous metropolis. Referred to as "zabbaleen", these people (approx 20 000 of them) survive on rubbish and have become "a cast" of their own, often excluded from the rest of society.
The facts and figures here have been taken from the unesco website, which also has some info re how you can help them improve the living conditions of some of the people struggling against the odds..... http://www.unesco.org/webworld/netaid/env/egypt.html
It is estimated that about 30 per cent of Cairo's garbage is not collected formally and that the zabbaleen, the informal sector, currently handle one-third of the garbage of 14 million people at no cost to the city authorities. Specifically this means that the zabbaleen collect up to 3,000 tons of garbage every day and up to 85 per cent of that waste is recycled by them directly.
Whole families live in houses piled high in every room with rubbish collected from around the city. Food scraps are either eaten directly or fed to goats and pigs. Walking through this area, esp. on a hot summers day, you can tell by the smell how bad this has to be for people's health.
The facts and figures here have been taken from the unesco website, which also has some info re how you can help them improve the living conditions of some of the people struggling against the odds..... http://www.unesco.org/webworld/netaid/env/egypt.html
Felucca photos
Some more lovely photos of the feluccas on the Nile....
The small boat in front was being rowed by the wife, with oars more like poles than oars- no flat bit to help pull the water along- and while she did that, and looked after the kids at the same time the man sat and fiddled with his nets........... since then I have noticed it always seems to be the woman doing the hard work on board!!!
The small boat in front was being rowed by the wife, with oars more like poles than oars- no flat bit to help pull the water along- and while she did that, and looked after the kids at the same time the man sat and fiddled with his nets........... since then I have noticed it always seems to be the woman doing the hard work on board!!!
Maybe I should sponser a felucca........just imagine a huge photo of me, in costume, floating around the Nile...Hmmm maybe not!!
When the aeroplane flew right above the felucca it made the contrast between this ancient mode of transport, and what we have become used to, even more obvious.
And so approaches the end of yet another hot, sunny, lovely day in Cairo...........
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