Advice for female travellers to Cairo, Part1- What to wear in Cairo...

It always seems to be an issue... and to this day  i still have to double check every outfit before i leave the house to see how Cairo proof it is....

I googled ‘what to wear in Egypt’ and found this website which is very interesting.. http://www.journeywoman.com/ccc/ccc-e.html . but many of the comments i don’t really agree with in regards to clothing suggestions. Here are my thoughts on the subject;

Lorna’s Guide for women regarding daytime clothing in Cairo!

-         The most common question- do I need to cover my hair? NO. You don’t, unless you are going to visit mosques. In which case a scarf/ shawl kept in your bag will do the job when you get there... In fact a blonde friend of mine said that she got even more unwanted attention when she wore a hijab, since the men seemed to think that a foreign muslim woman was an even greater ‘catch’. On the hair note- I have heard from various people ideas of wisdom of going outside with wet hair. It means you are just out the shower, and obviously you had sex just before that shower so obviously you want it again, with any man on the street that asks. I am not sure i totally agree with that pattern of thinking.... but if you are not feeling comfortable in your own skin it might be best not to risk it! I do however find a big difference if I go out with my hair down or pinned back. If you have long hair, especially if it is blonde or red, then its a good idea to clip it back when on the street. The swishing attracts more attention and some may feel they have the right to touch it (usually women who do this!)

-          Trousers- an obvious good choice? Yes, if they are not transparent.... beware especially of white cotton/linen! Remember that many materials which look opaque in a shop mirror may well be transparent under strong sunlight. These same items may be totally fine for wearing at night in Cairo. Jeans i always thought were the worst choice because they are heavy in the heat, but actually- assuming they are not too tight.. they often are my favourite choice since you look less like a tourist, and also because they don’t show the sweat!

-          Shorts- No.... unless you are in a holiday resort eg sharm or somewhere- Not for Cairo. In fact I wouldn’t wear cut off jeans or skirts that are above knee height at all. (actually not a good choice for men either unless very long shorts!!!)

-          Skirts- long- fine- but check for the see-through test!!! Knee length- great- but if they are full skirts beware since Cairo can be windy! Oh and be careful getting in and out of taxi’s in even below the knee skirts! If it is a wrap around skirt- pin it! The wind and getting into taxi’s etc could have you showing a lot more flesh that you intended- and believe me- it will be noticed!

-          Whether it’s a skirt or trousers, or jeans.... make sure if they sit low on your hips that your top is long enough to cover them..... exposed belly/hip/ lower back will attract unwanted attention from male and female! No bare bellies in Cairo (even us dancers and still supposed to wear the body stocking on stage remember!)

-          Cleavage is a no- no. Check all your tops.... what might be ok and normal amount of cleavage in uk or wherever is probably not in Cairo. If you can see any line, any bump on your chest that could distinguish you from a man, then have it covered! I often wear vest tops under lower cut tops to make sure this is kept under wraps. A little cropped top can also be worn so you cover the cleavage but don’t add to many layers onto an already warm outside for Cairo temperatures.  Remember the bending down to speak to taxi drivers test too.................!!!

-          Dresses are usually fine, assuming they have sleeves, no cleavage and below knee... which is often not the case. However – don’t panic – you can wear your summer dresses if you are ok wearing leggings underneath if they are a little short (or at risk of blowing up!) or a little bolero top to give you arms if it’s a strappy one.

-          Leggings- If it’s a tight mini dress that you wear with leggings- try to ensure that it really does cover your bum and you are not having to pull it down all the time- otherwise you will look like you are intentionally drawing eyes (and potentially hands) to that area! Leggings are seen by the majority of Egyptian women and therefore men as an item of underwear. They are not a substitute for trousers. They show too much detail!

-          Most of these suggestions are for the main areas in Cairo that I am in daily, Mohandiseen, Zamalek, Maadi. These areas have a large proportion of foreigners and ‘westernised’ Egyptians. If you are going to be downtown (where the museam is) or in more ‘local’ (baladi) areas, including el Hussain (where the khan el Khalili bazaar is) then i recommend less flesh on show... ie full length trousers/jeans/skirt rather then to the knee and maybe a long sleeve too.

-          This comment is for your own health and comfort rather than what others might think. Wear as much natural fibres as possible. It does get hot and sweaty in Cairo. Nylon is hotter to wear than cotton! This is another reason i like jeans!

-          T-shirts.... totally fine.... most places in Cairo. Even tightly fitted- as long as they cover armpits (which are frowned upon... but i suspect that has more to do with a lack of use of deodorant in Egypt than with the flesh itself!!!) and are long enough to cover the top of your jeans or whatever. Stappy tops are a no-no in public too (in Cairo remember- these things are fine places like sharm.)

-          A big baggy blouse is fine... as long as it’s not see-through.... bra straps on show are like wearing your bra in public. Not a good idea. Also check that the buttons don’t gape in any blouse you wear.... otherwise you’ll have some strange conversations while people, i mean men, try to see through the gaps!!!




-          Baggy verses tight. You would think that things which show off your curves more would get you more attention... you are right- but its attention the way Egyptian women get attention too. So it depends – if you want to look less like a tourist the tighter clothes are better! I have a wardrobe full of clothes i rarely wear now that i bought to come to Cairo on previous trips before I moved here,  linen trousers and tunic style tops that scream ‘agnabi ‘ (foreigner!).   I get less hassle in the streets here in Jeans and a t-shirt than if i wear baggy skirt and top. I might look sexier, but i also look more like I belong! It’s a fine balancing act!

-          Colour. Certain colours will draw the eye more. Red is used in advertising for that very reason. A tight black t- shirt will attract a lot less attention than a red one! Remember if you go for white that it should be thick enough cotton to mask the bra strap!!!!

-          A solution to see through skirts /trousers- a top or scarf tied round your hips....? NO!!!! This makes your hips and the hip movement more obvious and you will attract MORE comments. (that is why we tie something there when we bellydance!!!)

-          Skin on show..... a little is ok, ie arms is ok, lower legs is ok, upper chest is ok... but if you have all three on show... you’ll be commented on!

-          Shoes. High heels when you go out at night can be a liability. The streets are very uneven- so if you have any amount of walking to do, then wear a pair of ‘ship ship’ (flip flops)  to get you there and then change into your heels on arrival- this will also protect your shoes from damage!!! High heels lift you bum and make it swing- its why we wear them.... so if this brings extra attention it might not be a good idea for that reason too!

-          Make up. If you wear a lot of make up, you may stand out more, especially during the day. The heavier the make-up the looser the character of the girl wearing it..... or at least that’s how it seems to work in the minds of many here, unfortunately. Go light... or add the lipstick when you arrive at the club!




-          Body shape counts. In Cairo the curvy woman is the goddess. Showing off those curves or swinging them about will attract a lot of comments. In our lives we tend to try and dress to show off and accentuate our body shape. In Cairo during the day anyway, i try and do the opposite, and my curves aren’t big to begin with! I definitely dress down for Cairo streets... and it makes a difference!

Night time rules differ. If you are going to a westernised bar/club/ hotel/ restaurant you can wear whatever you want inside and you will often see very skimpy outfits. Just cover up to get there and home!!!

The best investments i ever made clothes wise in Cairo? Lots of large shawls and also very long, loose-fitting light cotton cardigan type tops which i usually pin onto me before i go out each night!


Tip for buying holiday clothes so you don't stick out so much- wear clothes you would normally wear at home- ie dont go out and buy a linen safari suit (unless thats your style in your own country of course!). Be mindful of sleeve length, body length of tops, neckline, and leg length of skirts , dresses and cropped trousers. Check material content (ie natural is better). Check transparency! Lacy/patterned bras that show through clothes are a bad idea too!


oh- and don't ever think you'll just buy important items here eg bikini or underwear- if you can find something you would be seen dead in and won't make your hair stand on end from static- chances are it has the 100% import tax on it!!

To attract a little less attention when you go out at night i know some women (Egyptians) who will remove chunky or shiny jewellery and only put it on once they arrive at their destination. If you are out and you see Egyptian girls dressed in a revealing, western manner- they probably came by car, they did not arrive by taxi!

A lot of what i read about for how to dress here comments on respecting people’s culture. There is an element to that of course. But really, for me its about reducing the hassle in the street. We will always get unwanted attention just because we are foreign, but you can reduce it by covering up somewhat. It goes to that same horrible WRONG argument you used to hear a lot in the west some years back that if a woman was wearing a mini skirt or something sexy like that, and attacked then she was 'asking for it' and somehow deserved it?  Also I notice if I cover, then the looks from women are usually admiring, but if i don’t they look at you like you are the devil herself. If anything bad was to happen, I’d like to think that the women at least would stand by me if I try to dress ‘normally’.  I hope i never have the occasion to test that theory!

Don’t panic if you are planning a trip to Cairo and this has worried you even more.... just think lots of layers!!! Oh and remember if you are coming in summer , although it may be 40deg in day and 30 at night... you will still need something to keep you warm in restaurants since they usually set their air conditioning units to 16 deg!!!!!

Like I said- i live in my jeans with a long length t-shirt. The same as I would probably wear in the UK. It might be Egypt- but you don’t have to mummify yourself!

The spec wearers of Cairo...

I have been told by a friend that i HAVE to write this as a blog entry since seemingly my logic isn’t obvious to everyone....

I walked into a shop yesterday and asked, in Arabic, the price of something. He looked very confused and i laughed and said i know you expected English and chatted away in English  for a bit with him. My friend was a little confused- “how did you know he spoke English”? My answer, “Well... it’s obvious isn’t it? He was wearing glasses......”

Ok- there were a few other telltale signs. His clothes, his manner, the way he was following the conversation not trying to butt into what we were saying.... but yes... my gut instinct was because of the specs.

I am probably very wrong statistically.... but it seems to me that the majority of spectacle wearers in Cairo speak English. Talk about stereotypes eh?! Yes I am guilty of it.

 I can only suppose I think this from my experience’s so far and have never before realised that is what I have always assumed!

My only reasoning for it goes like this:

Glasses are expensive to buy = therefore the wearer and or his/her family has money = therefore have given him/her a good education =and that always includes another language =and that language is usually English.

So, in my logic (which of course is often found to be faulty) if you are in Cairo, and need to speak English for some reason... ask the guy in glasses........!

Timekeeping in Cairo

The first time a man in Egypt said to me “ we should have breakfast together soon”... I freaked out. Until i realised he wasn’t implying that we spent the night together, but that we meet during the day for food since breakfast can be the name of the 1^stmeal of the day taken as late at 3 or 4pm! If somebody says”let’s do lunch sometime you never read anything seedy into it”. This is how a breakfast proposal should be taken here!

Also, when planning an event, night out, anything in fact-even work, exact times are rarely given. It is always left open in accommodate whatever‘happens’ to you during the day, which an exact time only being when someone says, “yes I’ll be with you in 5 mins” (which always means nearer 15 at least!). Also people will say, “ let’s do something later”... which could mean anything from a hours time (granted this is seldom the outcome) to 8pm, to 10 pm, to 2am..or later this week or month... it’s all very fluid. I really don’t know how things ever happened or people ever managed to meet with each other at all here in Cairo before the time of mobiles!

Oh, and if someone arranges to meet you 'later' but doesn't call... it means it was never a fixed arrangement anyway! In reality it actually means that something else (usually something better in their eyes) has come up. It is never meant as an insult. Be wary of any planned meeting times which end with 'Inshallah'. Always call to confirm! The real meaning of this word is 'god willing' but in reality is often used to imply that there is a good chance it will not happen....

At work I have to lie to my musicians about what time they have to be at the boat for (so that they are there in plenty of time before it sails!). I have learned to do this, but unfortunately the boat management in turn also do this to me... telling me the boat is due to sail before it actually is. Which is fine if you are late, since you aren’t in fact late, but hellish when you arrive early and discover you are super early! I once had a band arrive an hour after I had asked them to come... which was 15 mins after the guests were really supposed to come ( and 45 mins after the time the management told me they would come) and when i went nuts at them for being late one drummer told me “ but the guests aren’t here yet so what’s the problem? Obviously god loves you which is why the guests are late......” (I won’t write what i replied!)

At weddings people always state a time on the invitations at least an hour before they even really want people there... knowing that guests will be late. Recently when helping a friend plan her wedding , she was saying we’ll say 2 so they come for 3, and the ones who come by 3 or 4 are the real family and friends and the ones who turn up by 6 or 7 are the distant relatives etc anyway so it doesn’t matter?!!!

As for dinner arrangements, it’s always wise to check what time someone usually eats their dinner if you arrange to meet them for that. Dinner can be anything from 6/7pm- 2am depending on the lifestyle of the people in question. Certainly in my work it is unusual to eat the evening meal before midnight!

Friday daytime doesn’t actually start until after the prayers at 12/1pm. That is to say, of course it does, but if you are arranging to meet someone... never ever arrange a Friday ‘morning’!

Oh, and morning doesn’t end at midday.

Obviously, it ends at the afternoon prayer (the one which is mid way between the noon prayer and the sunset prayer).

So when greeting people you say “good morning” to them until about 3/4pm!

That’s me off to bed now... I feel like I need an early night. Its 2am. Night night!

Oh- and please forgive me my very unreligious approach to the 5 calls to prayer in Cairo;

Sunrise= bedtime

Midday= get up

Mid afternoon= breakfast

Sunset= drinks on balcony (assuming no work- if I have work, then run for taxi)

Last prayer= get ready to go partying (or get onto stage if at work!)

Cairo's timings don't suit everyone. If you plan to do lots in a day, you will often be disappointed since even seemingly easy jobs like posting a letter can take up a whole morning. Especially if there is traffic to contend with! In UK I was always taught not to phone people after 9pm, unless its been arranged previously, since they may be in bed. Here that idea is proposterous. In Cairo it is normal to call almost anytime, since the understanding is that if you want to sleep at 3pm, or 3am, either way, then you will put your mobile on silent. Many people I know come home from work between 3 and 6 pm and get 2-3 hours sleep before heading out for their night out. Every night of the week. Shift sleeping patterns are normal to many people!

Once you get used to Cairo's time keeping it usually becomes fairly easy to understand... however the times I now always get caught out are by those freaks of nature- the 'perfect' time keepers. Usually these people who meet you at exactly the pre arranged time because they assume that i will be punctual- being British. Oh dear..... I am sorry to you all if i have ever left you waiting for me at anytime!

I love Cairo- The city where no-one would be surprised or frown at me or criticise me for sleeping until 11am everyday.

See- even bedtime is fluid... my 'early' night is after 2.30am now!

Battle of wills... The ultimate Tabla solo

I have decided that the tabla solos i enjoy most are the ones where the Tabal is trying to push his rhythms, his ideas of what to do next, onto me, BUT is open minded enough to bend to my demands too. This creates a battle of the wills which gives the performance bite, I guess like a good Tango show!

I hate when a tabla solo becomes so rehearsed there is no room to break free. Even if i change my moves, often when you work with a drummer for a long time and usually they do the same drum solo over and over then they will go on and play the next rhythm in the 'routine' even if you try to dance something outwith the routine. I feel caged in when that happens...

I also get frustrated when the tabal, and this especially happens when you work with a new tabal, 'makes' you dance his music even when you try to suggest other things with your dance. I take it slow... building up the suspense then they get bored or something and just charge off into something fast that really wasn't needed at that moment in the show. Then I feel robbed.

The perfect combo... a strong, but interested tabal that actually wants to make you look good too... and isn't so narrow minded to think that he knows best in it all. Of course, I could never produce the music in the way he (usuallly all musicians in Egypt are male) does, but then I know the audience and my moves and how to pull that audience into the show in a way he doesn't. It must be a team effort.

The perfect conversation... when someone is able to listen and reply intelligently to what you say and then suggest ideas to take the conversation to the next level.

The tabla solo in my opinion should be exactly that! It is the most amazing feeling when it happens...... The adrenaline is at an all time high. 'Flying by the seat of your pants'.  I hope all dancers reading this have experienced this feeling... or get to experience it at some point in their life!

Payback time

I performed last night on the Nile Pharaoh for the 1st time since before Ramadan. It felt amazing to be back on stage on the Nile again. I really did miss it. I loved the support and enjoyment and appreciation i could see in my audiences eyes... Egyptian, Arabs and 'foreigners' alike.

I met one audience member who was also from Scotland... i loved the confusion that flashed over his face... she's the Bellydancer.... talking to me...... in Egypt, from Edinburgh... It always takes a while to sink in!!!

now for my first ever voluntary attempt at 'poetry' ............

Last night's little drama;

On stage, the dance is unfurling,
the audience watching
smiling
enjoying
The musicians focusing
working hard to stay together
working hard to stay with me

The magic is happening
but the dance floor fights back
payback for all the beating
from my feet
from my asaya
There's a nail sticking up out of the wood...
OH... that hurt
but no blood, deep breath.

Must avoid, MUST avoid...
try to focus on the music
without looking like the floor is winning,
It must not win
But
then
an evil, dreaded cucumber slice...
squished, pale and watery
harmless looking but treacherous
rejected from a passing plate,
designed to be my ruin,
designed to bring me down.

I step on it
I'm falling
no... no, I'm not
the floor won't get me
I swing my hip out far
then further, even more
My arms reach for the heavens
to the audience
praying these smiling powers will keep me upright
my spine is stretched, about to
PING
then counterbalance
with a smile on my face
the audience unaware of what could have been,
a new move is created

I take a breath
I win

I go to collect that saaidi stick
Payback time....

Visa's on Arrival .....

One day you do, next day you dont. Welcome to Egypt.

The Egyptian 'government' has now " shelved plans " for new visa regulations. It will continue to be possible to buy your entry visa at the airport on arrival. http://www.almasryalyoum.com/en/node/494934

Seems they have just realised that such a regulations would have a negative impact on tourism.... you don't say!

good........... shame they didn't consider this before announcing they were going to implement it and cause chaos in an already shaky touirst industry! Better late than never!

On a different topic all together, i bought a light for the ceiling in my dance studio in 'Hotel BellyLorna' today so that from now on I can dance, and teach Saaidi without fear of having glass rain down on me from the already broken from exuberant stick twirling, light fitting!!!!

Oh and the duck lost its quack, it was melted off... and then of course was burnt alive (I'm talking about a kettle here- no animals have actually been hurt!!!) and has now been replaced with a bright shiny dairy milk purple 'duck' which is not really a duck of course however 'kettle' in Hotel Bellylorna will be forever more be referred to as the duck in memory of the ducks who have losts their lives in the honourable duty supplying bellydancers from all around the world with their morning cuppas!!! (if you are still confused about all this talk of dead ducks- please check out an old blog entry from last year!  http://bellylorna.blogspot.com/2010/05/death-of-duck.html )

If you want to come and stay in Hotel Bellylorna... now that you can come and buy your visa on entry and partake of a cup of tea from the lovely new purple duck......and swing your Saaidi stick freely..... .

send me an email- Bellylorna@hotmail.com 

or check out my facebook page http://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=258340284200687&id=100000741536736#!/pages/Hotel-BellyLorna/103205596445518

August memories...

I had some really lovely times when i was home in UK this trip.

One of those was the Belly on the Beach day. (Thanks to the Dalriada for allowing us the use of their changing facilities and power point- not to mention the bar!)
 I invited my friends and family, students and other teachers along with their students and we had Egyptian music blasting out over the promenade and beach at Portobello, Edinburgh for the afternoon.

Here's the family....

and a fellow Scottish dancer who now lives in Egypt too, Sarannah....

and of course the lovely Eleanor Keen (also now a Cairo inhabitant!)  came up North to join us in some fun..... In this photo we are demonstrating Stacey's 'clubby book pose'. Some fabulous fife dancers are relaxing on the wall behind us enjoying the sunshine....

some of the top Scottsh dancers were there;
 Elspeth who brought along some of her students and lead a few dances....

......  Natalie....

... and Dawn.... to name but a few....



oh and the Tribal girls turned up too.............

and the girls, Isla and Mara, I used to dance with in the African dance group Afridonia way back when i first started to dance also joined in the fun with their kids too.....



 It was fabulous fun and the sun even came out to join us for most of it! It was such a luxury to be able to wear costume in public and dance outside without a single rude or sexual comment. Lots of smiles and lots of people joining in and enjoying the day. How dance is supposed to be. Friendly and fun!

and then- just in case you were thinking this couldn't have been Scotland..... it doesn't get much more Scottish than this, the dinner...... reduced and everything!!!!..............

The latest from Cairo.....

It was a hectic time in UK... hence my lack of Blog updates... but back to Cairo and trying to get on with 'normality'.

I want to put those worried by recent news reports at rest.

Cairo is unsettled- of course, they have no actual government in power... so thing cannot really get to any sort of 'normality' until after the elcetions in November. There were 'riots' last night in Cairo which were very localised beside the ministry of interior, a police station at giza and the Israeli embassy. Those riots were by people who are angry by govermental policies and want political reform- they weren't running riots in the streets burning down peoples houses and small businesses just to get their hands on a new phone of plasma TV.

The protests yesterday in Tahrir weren't troublesome at all, and it was only a fraction of those people who went to the embassy to tear down a wall that the army put up to 'protect' the embassy- the army however stood back and watched the protesters tear it down- not trying to stop them at all..... which is strange behaviour, no? anyway- there are of course lots of conspiracys- which in this country often are later revealed to be justified. Egypt is now in a state of emergancy- which might seem news to the rest of the world- but since they have been for the entirety of Murabaks 'reign' then its of no surprise to Egyptians. What it means in practical terms for life in Egypt... we shall see. so far the police holidays have all been cancelled- which is a good thing. the police are needed on the streets.

So- at the moment- things are happening... but as yet- Cairo is working fairly normally and is safe. Most of us go about our daily business as normal and are totally unaffected by what you all see in the news. (other than of course hoping and praying for a good outcome of it all for our country- yes i feel Egypt is my home...!) Dont worry - plus if you were intending on coming to visit- please still come (just maybe avoid Tahrir square on fridays!!!)

The only thing thats of EXTREME IMPORTANCE TO TOURISTS TO EGYPT is that you will very soon be unable to buy a entry visa on arrival. Which means you MUST apply to the Egyptian embassy in your own country in advance of your visit! http://www.almasryalyoum.com/en/node/494265

 I do not know if the new visa laws will apply to trips to Sinai or not ( since sharm does seems to have different visa regulations all of its own already and also since most tourists there come via organised tour groups which will be unaffected by the new changes!) but it would be best to check! Anything can happen here- the powers that be who have made this ruling may have their eyes opened by the tourist sector ( who are very distressed about anything which could harm Egypts tourism more http://www.almasryalyoum.com/en/node/494000.) and withdraw the law before its even put into practice.... but my advice if you intend to travel within the next few months to Egypt is GET YOUR VISA IN ADVANCE!!! 

Come ................. Egypt is wonderful... the touristic places are all well protected.... the streets are in my opinion still safe to walk in, I chose to live here.... . the people are friendly.... they just want a better life for themselves and their children...some may have extreme ways of trying to get this- but they have always been up against extreme policies. A country needs time and patience and education to change patterns of many lifetimes..... we need to have patience, tolerance and understanding and stand by Egyptians as they work out how to get and run the Egypt they dream of.

See you in Cairo soon!!!!

fringing it...

no- this is not a blog entry about making your own costumes....

this week i have been 'doing' the Edinburgh fringe festival.

Every august thousands of people flood to Edinburgh to enjoy and perform the arts. Comedy, theatre, dance music - its all there- non stop every day in almost every venue you can imagine. and this year a fantastic progression is the huge number of free fringe shows! I've been attending quite a few this week! Some ok, some awful and some amazing.

I loved 'The seven deadly sings' on at espionage in victoria street. a musical comedian who was intelligent and funny and talented and he was by far my favourite show of the fringe.

Another show that surprised me was 'the F word' in a venue on the north bridge. It was a group of girls, who sang and danced and mainly acted various stories of feminism. From foot binding to tribal nose cutting off, from domestic violence to mental illness. One actress actually had me in tears ... her acting was amazingly powerful... as was her message. the singing and dancing wasn't strong at all- but there were moments in the show that really blew me away and made it a show i got into for free- but actually if I had paid for it i would have considered it money well spent.

Last night i went to a ceilidh. SO much fun... I even met a couple of people there that i knew! 3 hours of fun jumping about to lively music... ahmed harfoush (the top jazz singer from cairo) was with us and was the star of the night.

today i am off to Dundee to teach a couple of workshops up there. Tomorrow i have my belly on the beach party on portobello prom (all welcome, just come along- 12-3pm by the dalriada), then next weekend i have glasgow workshop and show on the 27th and Edinburgh workshops on sunday the 28th. ( contact me asap if you want to reserve yourself a place on any of those...)

so the holiday was this week and now comes the 'work' - as much as dancing and teaching dance is ever 'work'. I know- I'm lucky!

London's burning.....

My parents have always been worried about my life in Cairo. They worry I will get killed crossing the streets after visiting Cairo a few years ago and being horrified during their numerous taxi rides, or that I’ll be abducted or even worse... that I might fall in love with an Egyptian man, marry him and end up living far away from them forever!

When the Egyptian young people took to the streets in Cairo and around Egypt to protest against police violence and prejudice, nobody thought it would end in a revolution which succeeded in bringing down a president of 30 years.... nobody thought these people would stand and be run over by vans and cars, brought down by tear gas and bullets... all because they truly, rightly believed they deserved better from their country and those who ruled it. Life was so bad that they were actually willing to give up their lives, and sadly many did. Some still are suffering for what they stand for, with many protesters still locked up and being charged by martial law even though they are from a self-appointed civilian ‘army’ rather than the one their government has always forced them into.



When I first heard the news of the current London Riots (which have now unfortunately, spread all across England) I found it really hard to find something in me to criticise them. For so many months now my heart and mind has been behind those who had to protest and were continually pushed back. Who were attacked then given the full blame, called lawless and troublemakers, for the youth on the streets- making their voices heard.

It has taken me all day of reading news and looking into how it all happened... into the ‘reasons’. There are none.......... absolutely none.... These are not protests...

.... these youths are nothing like the men (and women) of Egypt and Syria and Tunisia and Libya to name but a few countries where ‘riots’ have made headline news over the last 7 months. No these young people already have free education, free healthcare, freedom of speech and benefits to save them from the worst of poverty. These rioters of London, and other now ruined cities, know nothing of the extremes of life that are thrown at people who are imprisoned and killed just for attempting to create a political party. Who were tortured for their beliefs and for voicing them. Who have lived their lives in unwarranted fear of the police just going about their daily lives. In fact- I have to quote from twitter to make my point fully,

“ the youths of the Middle East rise up for basic freedoms... the youths of London (Birmingham , Manchester etc ) rise up for a HD ready 42” Plasma TV.”

Political soapbox aside.... my personal feelings have surprised me. I have had flashbacks to the levels of panic I felt throughout the early days in Cairo in the revolution when none of us had any idea how things would work out. I forgot how it felt to have that sort of tightness in the chest and stomach, that degree of uncertainty what will come next for your country and for the future for everyone in it .... At least in Cairo I had sympathy for the youths.... now I just have a fury that I cannot type fast enough about here at Edinburgh airport ...

Have to end this now........

..........” Boarding now at gate 12” .......... London calling.........

Socialising in Scotland and learning how to walk....

It's lovely to be back in Edinburgh to see everyone. So far I've had some time catching up with family and friends and it's been great. Looking forward to a lot more of that.

I have even organised a beach party on portobello promenade on sunday 21st aug (noon- 3pm by the Dalriada bar) to try and round up as many of my scottish friends and fmaily as possible, dancers and non dancers alike. Also attempting an Afridonia reunion ( I used to be a dancer in an African dance group in Edinburgh and I haven't seen all the girlsand guys in the group for ages!) at the same time...

If you can get yourself to portobello on that day- I strongly recommend it. Of course i can't guarentee sunshine, but if it rains I'll still be there, I'm Scottish- brought up on 'Umbrella held over the bbq' summer outings! (but if its wet from 12.30 since thats when the bar actually opens!!!) facebook events page is http://www.facebook.com/#!/event.php?eid=246783545344958

I'm looking forward to heading down to London this week for a week(arrive last tues night) I have a lot of friends down there I hope to see... workshops which are selling tickets fast.. 2 performance nights (detials will be advertised VERY soon) and private classes too.... not to mention a photoshoot with the fabulous Maani ! I dont know how I am going to fit it all in- but am looking forward to 'doing' London!!! for info on performances and workshops please go to http://saqarah.co.uk/Lorna-Saturday-Workshops-2011


Loving driving.... miss that in Cairo. But also enjoying walking.... it's not somethig thats is easy to do in Cairo. Apart from the heat, the traffic and the comments from the men in the streets, which can be offputting enough- Cairo has dreadful pavements (if there are any at all... when very high curbs) which means you end up looking at your feet all the time to mind your step and to ensure you dont make unwanted eye contact! I was walking down the pavement here in Edinburgh the other day and realsied that I was looking down the whole time and told myself off for it... 'you're in Uk now... enjoy the scenery- look around', I felt free and alive. The sun was shining and people had really made their gardens beautiful. The 'greenness' of everything was a cooling balm to my dust tired cairo eyes. It's true I didn't receive any unwanted attention, nor stumble on any hole in the pavement... but one horrible thing in UK that you DON'T get in Cairo... dogs dirt. I did manage to avoid it, but only just! People in Cairo seldom have dogs as pets, in fact many are very scared of dogs and see them as very unclean animals. If you have washed to say your prayers and a dog licks you, then you have to do the entire cleansing process again before you pray... ... so in the streets of Cairo, although often have a lot of rubbish on them, they are blissfully free from this curse of UK society. So, I'm back to scanning the pavements as I walk.... whichever of my 2 home countries I am in!

Hotels and Hospitals...

The nice stuff first!

Last week Ellie and I were invited along to the Sofitel gezirah hotel pool to join some friends who were over visiting from Italy for a wedding. They have a lovely pool there, which is almost an infinity pool... swimming along watching the Nile is a wonderful experience! It’s a lovely pool too... with a jacuzzi and Turkish baths and all sorts included in the spa area. A real treat. We did have a laugh at the menu though- the pizza named ‘vegan’ which was covered in mozzarella, very vegan... and the tiramisu which according to the menu ‘can be translated to wake-you up’!

It was interesting to hear all about the wedding too. An Italian girl marrying a Coptic Egyptian man. Seemingly the overwhelming numbers of photographers were actually pushing themselves between the priest and the couple during the ceremony!!! The ceremony was all in Coptic language and Arabic, with a smattering of English words. Thankfully the bride had had the foresight to have the vows translated into English on handouts for her guests. They still have in the vows that the wife must obey her husband... and at no point did the bride have to give her consent to the wedding in the ceremony either- no ‘I do’. Seems a shame, but then in Egypt- it is only VERY recently that the woman’s signature even had to be on the marriage papers at all... as long as her father signs for her, that was always enough. Thank god there has been some progression!

And then onto the not so nice stuff....

For the last 2-3 weeks I have had a very unsettled stomach... to put it politely. I put it down to a bug, or too many party nights, or irregular eating i.e. my own fault. However, these past 4 days have been horrible. I won’t go through the symptoms... but let’s just say I couldn’t leave the house, in fact, i could hardly leave the bed. When it got to the point that I had to cancel work I realised that I couldn’t put off going to the doctor any longer. The antinal I’d been taken (an antibiotic which is usually fabulous at clearing up tummy bugs) just wasn’t doing its job.

Going to the doctors in Cairo is very different than in UK. You don’t have to be registered anywhere... and there aren’t really GP’s. What you do is you go to one of the many privately run hospitals in the city. I have a very nice, new, modern one a short walk from my house- which is good, since that is all I could manage, not having had any fuel in me for 3 days. Then you ask for the type of consultant you wish to see.... and wait. Depending on which hospital the wait can be very long, or very short. Thankfully we didn’t have long before the Doctor came to the front desk to collect us himself (I have a feeling this was not the normal etiquette, rather it was something to impress the foreign girls!). Turns out the Dr Ahmed has spent 2 years in London studying and working there, and was very happy to discuss his time there with us. He gave me a quick examination and diagnosed a spastic colon (aka IBS) and gave me a prescription and that was it. Of course, there is no NHS in Egypt.... so I asked who we should pay, and bless him... he said no fee... this one is on me! There are defiantly some perks to being a foreigner in this city!

So no work for a few days... rest and drugs and hopefully I’ll be all better very soon. I better be- I have workshops to plan for my upcoming UK tour!!!

Musicans, morals and the makings of a better future..

Well... it's been an interesting week at work.



The first day of work I unfortunately had to call in sick. I can dance through many things... but a tummy bug is a bit too risky to attempt! (All better now!)



Then, the next night I was missing my dholla player. Seemingly his nephew had died so he’d had to travel up north to the funeral. He had been shot. I didn't get the whole story- or at least I didn't understand it, but I got that he was young. Unfortunately gun crime in Egypt does seem to have escalated since the revolution. I am guessing it’s still not level with that in most ‘developed’ countries, but still a lot more than was ever heard of in Egypt before. It is seemingly not illegal in Egypt to own a gun, even though they are supposed to be licensed... but then again- so are the cars!



The next day at work brought the fun and games. Whenever I have had a musician leave my band... there always has to be a drama around it. I can totally understand in these days with so little work for us all, that a tabla player, for example, might be able to get more work somewhere else and therefore chose to take the job that will cover his bills. If my work visa allowed me more freedom I would certainly be taking more work that the Pharaoh’s alone can offer just now. However, rather than come to me, his employer, and tell me that’s what has happened, obviously the better way of dealing with it in his mind was to make a big fuss about something very small and storm off in a huff. Huffing is a behaviour I have had to deal with more than I ever expected to in Egypt, especially since I don’t to work with children.



Saying that I did work with children last week... teaching salsa dance of all things to a group of Egyptian children on a summer camp program. I loved the way the younger girls, aged 5 and 6, already knew how to completely charm you, flirting their way through the class. The other girls, up to 13 years old were super conscious of their bodies, as all teenagers are... but when I tried to explain how to move the hips in salsa and pushed my hip out, it went out so much further than one of the girls expected that her eyes nearly popped out of her head in astonished admiration! She actually looked like she had got a fright!!! However- she then imitated beautifully!



Anyway... back to musicians... I have to say the working week finished with me being very impressed with my new tabla player, who although hasn’t quite understood the notion that he is supposed to follow me, rather than the other way around, is a super fast learner and managed to play my entrance piece without having even heard it before. My bereaved dholla player shouted out which rhythms to play and when. An on-stage class and rehearsal and performance all at once. They both did an amazingly good job. I enjoyed that show!



So to sum up, it’s worth putting up with the various problems and tantrums that get thrown in your way, if artistry is of such high quality when it appears. However, Egypt is full of talented artists and therefore musicians who respect their work and their employers and their audiences are the ones to look out for and hold onto! Not just musicians either, dancers too.



I have had many debates with my band over the years, because during lunch time sails they want to dress casually, often turning up to work unshaven and in less that their full ‘uniform’ of shirt and tie. I try to reason with them... but since the audiences are tourists on package trips from sharm or from cruise ships, the band seem to think that they wouldn’t know the difference between a good show and one just thrown together. This is what happens unfortunately sometimes when art becomes work... just do the bare minimum to get the pay. I still haven’t managed to get them to understand why they should respect these foreigners who come to their country and often are very interested in the culture and music. Eventually I have managed to get them into shape somewhat by showing them the clips that end up on YouTube. Who are the audience members who film everything and put it on the internet? The tourists. Who sees that- EVERYONE, including Egyptians, agents, other dancers etc etc. The message sank in a little, even if not for the right reasons.



Recently a friend of mine, and Egyptian, wrote on facebook that Egypt would do well if people would learn to stand in line..... I would argue- that if Children in Egypt were taught respect for others, no matter who they are, older, younger, Egyptian, non-Egyptian, rich or poor, then the vast majority of this societies negative issues would disappear. You don’t have to teach someone to stand in line if it makes ‘common sense’ that someone who was waiting before you for something should receive it first. You wouldn’t shoot a young man through difference of opinion, you’d reason with him. You wouldn’t huff like a child to distract from your own lack of loyalty. You wouldn’t judge a person’s art appreciation by their nationality. If people are all equal in your eyes, as is taught in most religions, including in Islam, then you would respect them all, and life would be so much better.  



Ah, sorry........’takes a deep breath’...... there I go again............ wearing my rose tinted glasses again to dream of a brighter future....... dare I dream?

endorphins

Don’t you already find that the nights you least expect to be good turn out to be the best?!!!

Last Thursday night I was NOT in the mood to party at all. I went out only because I had promised my friend Linda I would attend her open mic night, up on the roof, at Darb17/18. I take the metro to get there since it’s in fustat, very close to the metro stop mari girgis. Ellie and I were hesitant about taking the metro, since at night there are usually just too many men around for comfort, even if you ride the woman’s only carriage, which I always do, you still have to get there in the first place! Even if they don’t ‘do’ anything- they slow down so they can walk next to you, or behind you... it is not a nice feeling! Last Thursday night we were lucky. There was a major football match on with Ahly playing (one of the major Cairo teams) ... so many of the usually annoying boys, were plonked in front of a TV somewhere and not out to intimidate us girls! There is always the shove to get on the metro when it is so busy... people don’t wait for others to get out before they push their way in... It’s the worst thing about the metro. I have heard a story of a guy being separated from his shoe trying to get off at his stop! There is no concession made for a woman with a baby in her arms either. She is shoved along like everyone else.  One woman in our carriage got in... But it was such a stressful event that she had obvious tears in her eyes but the time she came to a standstill! It’s never boring. Even going to an event is always eventful!

So by the time we got to Darb unfortunately we had missed most of the 1^st set. The second set was shorter than usual- but had some impressive acts. Leena from India performed a dance that was like a fusion of belly dance, Indian dance and contempary. That is the first dance act I have seen at one of these events.  There was a poet who had written traditional style poetry in fusha inspired by modern films. I couldn’t understand a word- but his voice and delivery was beautiful. There were two guys there called ‘extra cheese’ who did some rapping... and it was incredibly entertaining.... a mix of English and Arabic and very bouncy. I have to say though I wasn’t the only one in the audience who held their breath the 2 times one of ‘the cheeses’ jumped up onto the wall behind the stage (it is held on the roof of Darb after all!!!) The good news for the night was hearing that the open mic events have been deemed so successful that they will now be held every 2 weeks rather than once a month!! Well Done Linda!

Then I decided that part of the reason I had been in a low mood earlier, was because with less work these days than normal, my body was missing movement. If I don’t dance every 2^nd or 3^rd day at least then I get depressed. Literally... I am addicted to the endorphins that dance releases in my body! I should lock myself into my dance studio and just dance- but for some reason i can never seem to do that.... So off to Salsa at Bian Cafe, Mohandiseen it was. I loved it! They played one rock and roll track, which I sat out, but every other song of the night saw me being spin around the dance floor like a woman processed! I cannot explain the high dancing gives me! But Bian Cafe does not party all night long... and I was not prepared to leave that high too early... so Ellie and I went on with a group from salsa to the Armada nightclub... which parties till the break of dawn- literally. They play a mix of music with some R&B, which I love, and Egyptian pop and shabbi tracks to full on house music (which I hate- but last night with all those endorphins kicking about inside me found me bouncing about the dance floor with the rest of them!!!) It was the best of nights!

 The downside of the night was on leaving the club, discovering that someone had slashed the tyres on the car we had arrived in. His wasn’t the only car, 4 others had suffered the same fate. The theory is that the car valets, who charge money to look after your car while you are in the club, took offence to us just parking in the street and decided to take matters into their own hands. Horrific! Complaints to management were made. Inshallah that won’t happen again!

At the end of the night, i.e. dawn!!!, some of the group were still in party mood and suggesting sharia haram for the cabaret clubs there...... one of our group excused himself with the most entertaining and original reasons I have ever heard; “ Sorry- but I have a revolution to make in the morning! “

On Friday masses have gathered in Tahrir to demand that the original revolutions demands from January are actually met. Mubarak may have been brought down, but many feel it is only the figurehead that has changed and the way the country is being led is as far away from democracy as you can get. I wish them well and pray for a peaceful resolution, now they are on day 3 of their sit-in which has been peaceful thankfully. There is a lot of debate about whether this is the 'right' way forward for Egypt or not. Some people worry that having all these protests will scare away the tourists- who are much needed for Egypts economy. I feel that it is such a joy that Egyptians can at long last- for the first time in their lives and those of their parents, actually hold public political gatherings and voice their ideas, that as long as the protests remain peaceful, they actually cement the progress the country has already made since January. Education though is the real key now and needs to be pushed more. Teach people how to vote, how to campaign, how to chose what thhey want from a government. They have never had options before. Good luck to them all (to us all !!)

tourist visas, Hotel Bellylorna and the yacht!

I haven’t written a blog entry for some time- and I would love to say it is because I have been so busy working- but unfortunately that still isn’t the case.

There is a slight improvement in the numbers of tourists in town, but often the pharaoh boats where I perform are still only having one boat go out each night instead of the usual two. I hope it will pick up soon, but I am guessing it won’t now, not before Ramadan. I can but hope and cross my fingers and say Inshallah!!!!

 Egypt needs tourism. It is one of the main supports of the economy here. I heard to today that they are refusing tourist visa extensions from now on. That you can get your visa... but that while you are in the country you cannot then extend your visa. This will have a big impact on Egypt with many of the thousands of foreigners here are currently here on extended tourist visas. I am not really sure what the thinking behind it is.... if anyone reading this has any ideas I’d love to hear them!

So if I haven’t been working- what have I been up to....?

well... I was playing ‘hostess with the mostess’ to my two recent houseguests in Hotel Bellylorna. Two dancers from London who had a fabulous time here, taking classes (with various teachers), having massages (I have a girl who comes to the house to do that- she’s not professionally trained- but she’s great!), and they even had a how to make your own costume class here with someone who came to the house to show them the ropes! It was a fun 2 weeks!

During that time it was my birthday... and what a day I had. The best birthday ever! Woken up with pancakes (made with rum and covered in chocolate and banana!) oh and my favourite ‘eshta’ filled Turkish delight sweets while I waited for the pancakes and tried to reply to some of the hundreds of lovely face book birthday messages (thanks everyone!)

...Then a trip to the pool for a few hours... where I even had a birthday candle in my crème caramel!

.... home for an outfit change... then off to Sequoia for a delicious dinner with 2 close friends....

And then off to the Yacht that I had hired for the evening for my friends and I to party on!!! It was an amazing evening... with about 30 good friends gathered together on the yacht ( it was due to be 3 hours- but we were all enjoying it so much that lots of people opted to chip in some money to extent the trip for a 4^th hour!).



I recommend the Valentino to anyone- it cost 450le per hour... docks between the Pharaohs and Fridays on the Giza corniche, and it is large and comfortable, with a great dance floor and sound system and the management are really easy to deal with. The owner even called me the next day to wish me a happy birthday and check that everyone had enjoyed their night! 


 Dancing on a Yacht on the Nile, with lovely friends (a special thanks to Laura for bringing along a ton of homemade goodies for us all, and also to Ellie, Ruth and Anna Louise!!). It felt ever so decadent... Duran Duran eat your heart out! We had about 9 belly dancers on the boat- you can imagine the party!!!
 

It seems many of my friends are also cancerians... with Diana (an American dancer here in Cairo) celebrating her birthday the day before and the two dancers from London (Delia and Debbie) celebrating theirs a week early too... 4 Belly Birthday girls......!

The night was so perfect in fact that one guy decided it was the perfect moment to propose to my friend at the front of the Yacht. I saw the moment... and thought they looked very sweet... but only after realised the importance of the occasion! Congratulations Laura and Mohammed!!!

Cairo at its best!

Life is good!


(I have some more photos to add to this blog.. but it doesn't seem to be letting me- so publishing now without those pics and will add them asap!)

Nile Group Opening Gala June 2011

oh what a night.................!

fabulous.

Last night i went along to the opening show at the Pyramisa with the girls who are currently staying with me in 'Hotel bellylorna'. If you are attending the workshops in the festival- and pay for at least 7 of them... then you get opening and closing night shows included in your registration fee. Otherwise you pay $50 for a ticket. When i heard who was in the line up for the opening i decided it was well worth the money and a night not to be missed!

Saying that- The night must have started pretty much on time, since when we arrived, only a little late (Cairo style) Nour had already performed her 1st number of the night. She was elegant, and fun and beautiful and gentle... a show that was worth the entrance fee on its own! We all especially liked her khaleegy which was again, soft and passionate... when she whipped her hair round, you really felt is was the enjoyment of the move which instigated the action... rather than because that is 'what you do' in khaleegy. It was a bit like watching a cat stretch in fact. Mesmorising.

After the buffet (an experience a lot less traumatic than usual due to the destressingly low numbers in attendance of the fesitval this year since the revolution) we watched a dancer i hadn't seen before, Margurite (forgive me any spelling mistakes here please!) She is russian.. but has been taking lots of lessons with Lubna Eman ( a lovely lady and obviously from these results, a very good teacher!) The style was 100% Egyptian... which as all foreign dancers knows is our holy grail... to be mistaken for Egyptian while on stage! The only thing i think that would have improved her show was maybe less choreography. Although everything she did was moves perfect... I felt she kept herself safe away from us the audience. Mind you, nerves alone could do that to a girl i guess!

Tito was next on stage... with backing dancers who were all dressed differently but all dressed in past Tito costumes- it was bizarre- like a lookalike competition. Novel idea though. In the group that went with me... 2 of the girls hadn't ever seen him perform live before, so they were, of course, enraptured. He does dance in the most manly way out of all the male oriental dancers i have seen, although the headscarf he was wearing didn't get lifted up like hair and flicked an inordinate number of times.... A fun show with him standing dancing on top of a tabla too.

Camelia was beautiful.

 Her dance was the most contained i have ever seen her dance... and i think that added to it. Her main piece in her show was a reproduction on a moulid (holy festival) and there were stilt walkers, 'punch and judy' puppets, tannnoura, fanoon, a fortune teller, jugglers, even a wee old man 'selling' erk soos (a licorice drink). She came and went during this carnival in about 5 differnt costumes... and it was a entertainment on a massive scale. unfortunalty though... becuase her dancing to me was so lovely in her 1st set, i was frustrated because i wanted to watch her dance again... rather than the circus show (as lively and entertaining as it was!)

Last but not least, Asmahan. Her entire band were wearing shirts made from the egyptian flag, she was carried onto stage in a box made from egyptian flag and her 1st costume was a 'brides' dress with a full net black skirt, white and gold eagle on her stomach and a red shawl.


.......these she stripped away to finallly be wearing a very tight very revelling costume of red whie and black. My 'flag' costume looks like a galabeya in comparison!



Her dance was lovely, and very soft.. which is always what i though i would like to see more in Asmahans dancing... but it felt more like the passion or power had disolved a bit, which was sad. It's not a surprise though... She is not based in Cairo anymore, so no longer getting her daily high energy exercise fix in her show each night. and she is not the only one to have less daily practise! All of us dancers in Cairo are performing much less since the revolution since the numbers of tourists in town will take time to increase and people are employing dancers less and less at weddings....



What i will say about Asmahan however is that she has always been one of the most welcoming and interested and caring of all the dancers here in Cairo. When i first arrived here to work she gave me a lot of very good advice about work here. A very generous lady- and this comes accross in her dance too. A nice shot of Asmahan and Khaled Mahmoud-

I have to give credit to the Nile Group organisers who cannot possibly be making any kind of profit with such low attendance levels... but who, despite the cost to themselves,  put on an amazing show for us all the same. This surely is a fantastic festival to attend.. since there won't be any issues of having difficulties seeing the teachers at the front of the classes! I recommend you support it and Egypt and come to the next festival if you can!

I also have to give photo credit for al these shots to the lovely Delia Lewis who is currently staying in Hotel Bellylorna with me. Thanks for letting me use them here D !!!

The entire night ended after dawn.

 Hehe- thats stating the obvious isn't it... I mean.. the entire show finished at dawn when we jumped a taxi back to Hotel Bellylorna to dream of shimmys and hair flicks!