Saturday, May 17, 2014

A list of 20 great things to do in Cairo for tourists


I am often asked by people visiting Cairo what else they can do besides the usual tourist stuff here in the city. This has inspired me to write this, by no means exclusive, list of some fun things to do if you get a chance to come here, or indeed to tick off your to do list if you live here!

Nb-I have shamelessly stolen all the photos from this from google searches. Apologies to all photographers- if you want your pic photo credited pease just ask! 

These are in no particular order.  How many of these have you done? And can you suggest things I have missed?



1- Wander round streets of Zamalek.... Lots of wee boutiques, art galleries and cafés . Safe and easy area to walk in Cairo.




2- visit the flower show at the botanical gardens in dokki. Which runs all of May. (Not very interesting the other 11 months though!)



3- walk from citadel down to khan el Khalili. Pass by the blue mosque and the tentmakers area.



4- om khalsoum museum and nilometer in Manial. It doesn't taken long so take picnic and sit in grounds after enjoying the Nile view.



5- take the metro to Mari Girgis.Visit Coptic museum and churches. Walk to the Nile for the river bus back downtown



6- the zoo. It suddenly makes you appreciate zoos in other countries. 



7- Make /buy a picnic and hire a felucca on the Nile for a few hours. Best at sunset. Been there done that? Make it a wee shaabi boat and blast up the volume and dance in de Nile !



8- catch a Bellydance show. Hint Hint- there is a good one at fairmont Nile city every tues and thurs night!



9- baladi bar hop round downtown, admiring the French, Italian and British architecture along the way. Www.baladibar.com 



10- St Simons church carved into the mokkatam rock, passing through the zabaleen (rubbish collectors) area. Smelly, but an eye opener to how some people live!



11- Mohamed Ali mosque (citadel) and police museum then sunset in el Azhar Park.



12- sit in the outside terrace restaurant at the Marriott hotel, Zamalek and imagine the life story of the variety people around you. Plus the Marriott ceilings just HAVE to be seen and admired!



13- live it up - gather a few friends together and hire a yacht for an hour or two. Less expensive than you may imagine and you can pretend you're in a Duran Duran video.



14- Dashour- the red pyramid and the bent pyramid! Always quiet and stunning.



15- take a Bellydance class to learn to dance 'Egyptian style' -hint hint -I know a good teacher! ;-)



16- Egyptian museum in Tahrir Square. Ancient and recent history together in one place.




17- Saccara pyramid museum and tombs. Take care, the tombs close before the rest does and should not be missed!



18- Cairo opera house. Great shows most nights and a large air conditioned modern art gallery too if you need some escape from Cairo noise and heat.



19- day pool use in any of the lovely 5 star hotels along the Nile/ by pyramids. I strongly recommend Fairmont Nile City- yes I am biased since I work there, but you can see ALL of Cairo and the pyramids from the Sky pool!



20- I could write a list and not include it - the Giza Pyramids with or without camel/ horse ride and lunch at Mena house hotel after.


Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Dancing at Bab el Nil restaurant at Fairmont Nile City, Cairo


I've been working here officially two months now... And I am really happy.

The staff and very friendly and respectful- Seems like that should be a given in a five star hotel, but in my experience as a bellydancer in Egypt for the last 8 years respect is something we seldom receive. It is such a relief.

A beautiful venue that I can call home. To be dancing in the same place each time is something I have done in Egypt for years, but at last I feel appreciated and at home in this one. When I am dancing on stage I feel like the audience are my friends. That we are all just out to enjoy our evening as much as possible. That we are all in it together. I feel like I used to feel in Edinburgh when I organised all the dancing at a local Moroccan restaurant, Walima. That it was my place. Bab el Nil is my new home.

I have control. Over when I dance, where I dance, how I organise my show. Again. Such a relief to be trusted in this rather than micro managed. It means I end up doing more, giving more, so do my band, and we all enjoy it more.

I am being paid well enough to be able to treat myself to the pool/gym/spa membership here at the Fairmont. So before work I come to the pool for a couple of hours, then do a workout or stretch, have a lovely power shower before getting ready and resting in a beautiful lounge with a herbal tea or iced lemon water. My quality of life has rocketed up.

Oh and then there are the wedding bookings that are flooding in...

I'm not writing all this to boast or brag. Rather, I am very aware that often my blog posts of late have been quite negative... So I decided it was only fair if I share the bad stuff with you, that you get to hear that those hardships have been worth it. The roller coaster is on the up at the moment. Long may it continue!

Thanks for sticking with me through the lows... Come and join me at Bab el Nil some Tuesday or Thursday night and enjoy the ups too....

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Saidi swing




When dancing Saidi I feel
Tall, strong, empowered
Asaya raised proudly
I swing
You duck
Coward!





R Kelly tribute




I swear I don't even try
Time stops and doesn't pass by
Like wine fills a cup
Dance fills me right up
And then I feel I can fly!


Shake it.



What is Bellydance?
I'm glad you ask,
There's a lot more to it than
Shaking your ......... Hips.






Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Why I dance. No6.




This dance is from Egypt
But I'm from the North
So I moved here from Scotland
To dance at the source



Photo by Fady Nada


Why I dance. No5.




Dance frees your soul
Dance keeps you strong
Pump up the bass
Rhythm pulls you along





Photo by Aimee Taberer

Why I dance. No4.




I must learn how to laugh
Without shutting my eyes
But then I'd be thinking
Not free
More like lies..




Photo by Aimee Taberer

Why I dance - no3.




Dance is a long journey
Full of work, aches, and pains
The reward? 
See their faces, 
See the joy your art brings.




Photo by Aimee Taberer

Why I dance- no2.




I dance my love
I dance my pain
Dance eases sorrow
And keeps me sane




Photo by Kay Taylor 

Why I dance - no1




Dance when you're winning
Dance when you're down
Dance creates joy
To Banish that frown




Photo by Aimee Taberer

Monday, April 07, 2014

Boredom: depression's friend


It's so easy to complain about things in Cairo... Things never seem easy. I have a tendency to be more negative than positive, which I know isn't healthy, so I will try to remember the things I take for granted and be thankful for them too...

I have done this once before, many years ago, written a blog about all the good things about living here... And here goes again...

Tonight I am writing this on my ipad, in my changing room, - I have a changing room and an ipad!

Waiting between sets for my band to start, - I have a band!,

Between sets on stage - I have a stage!

At Bab el Nile restaurant in Fairmont Nile City Hotel- I have a contract in one of the loveliest hotels in the city and work visa to boot!

It's quiet tonight- but there is still work!

And the people are here are all Egyptian- I have Egyptians in my audience!

The wind is freezing- but freezing is relative,I'm dancing outdoors in April, ie it's not UK.

My labisa (dresser) failed to answer her phone yet again so I am here alone again - I normally have a dresser! AND a very Scottish point here- I have saved tonight the cost of her earnings!

Because I am alone and sitting in costume - a very pretty saidi costume!

I cannot go and tell my band their break is over- I get to decide my running times!

So I just have to sit and wait til I hear them play again.....

......And that was the point they started to play!!!


In Egypt I often get down. Yes, in a dance way, but also in a mood dip kinda way too. Doing even the smallest things seem daunting and difficult. Even just charging my phone, or paying a bill.  I get wound up by the smallest of things and yet other massive issues will land on me and I'll brush them off easily as if they were a mosquito. Rhyme and reason don't seem to play a part. I am often angry, frustrated, stressed, but never bored.  Never ever bored.

I remember my entire childhood going around saying I'm bored, over and over again.

I found my solution: Cairo.

Heightened emotions, negative and positive, but never boredom- that opposite of emotion. That dreaded, flat, dead state that drains me and allows the depression to grab hold. On the roller coaster of emotions that is Cairo, exhaustion is more likely to hand you over to the devil depression rather than boredom.

I must remember the emotions are good. Even the negative ones: anger and frustration.... And I must keep remembering to search for the good in each situation. That's my challenge. Wish me luck!

Oh, and by the way- when the band did play again, despite my frustrations in the changing room that inspired this blog entry, I went on to do one of the best shows I have done in a while. I felt alive and empowered and full of joy and strength. My band and I were on fire. The audience with us, small in number but large in spirit. (And by that I do not mean they were drunk!!) I left work feeling so much better than I had arriving there.

And that has to be the ultimate upside to all of this;  Doing my job makes me feel great.

Hurrah for Cairo and for dancing, and especially for dancing in Cairo!

And a huge thanks to Kay Taylor of Farida adventures who took this fabulous photo of me on stage at Bab el Nile.  Not the same night, but it's the first shot I have of me in action at my new venue! 


And.... Just in case it needs said... That smile is genuine! 

Sunday, April 06, 2014

Shimmy by the sea... 2 !

Here are some more photos which show what a fun time we all had at Shimmy by the Sea...

Week one girls;

 Week 2 girls;

Silly bra time;

More silly bra shots:

And more...

Trip to the chippie in Hastings... 


Saidi workshop:


And the sexy baladi workshop:



Some of us in the Penny arcades after the chip shop visit: 


And me hiding my gammy eye behind some rather glamorous ladies;


Om khalsoum put in a guest appearance to my improvisation class:


In the pink....


And my oriental workshop had everyone warmed up on the first night:


Thanks to all of you whose photos I stole from Facebook to include on this blog. I love you all!!! 


and for your viewing pleasure- another video clip of me dancing at shimmy by the sea... this time a short clip from a rather crazy said inspired shaabi number... Thanks Pauline for filming and thanks June for transferring it to youtube for me to add here!




Shimmy by the Sea dance festival March 2014

It is lovely to see a bellydance event so successful that they have to do it twice! That's what happened to the UK dance festival Shimmy by the Sea where I was asked to teach and perform at both the weekends this year.

I flew over from Cairo, just for these two weekenders (and of course for the week of shopping in between!)

It is a small scale festival through choice, the organiser, Chloe Dent, likes to keep it friendly so prefers numbers of no more than 50. It was perfect. So many lovely ladies all together doing what they love, bellydance!

Everyone was staying in beautiful wood chalets around the grounds of the holiday camp near Battle (which is where the Battle of Hastings took place in 1066) and the classes were held in rooms in the main house. I got to share a chalet with some of the other teachers; Nawarra and Artemisia. It was good to have our own space to sit and relax and chat and we also ended up a few evenings round at Chloe's chalet since she had a hot tub! Much hilarity was had I can tell you. The laughs and chatter of international bellydancers sat in a hot tub must have kept the neighbours awake and entertained! (or they may have hated us.....)

I unfortunately managed to get a nasty eye infection the first weekend, so when I performed at the show night, at which everyone was all of a very high level I have to add, I looked like I was permanently winking at my audience! Thankfully Aimee Taberer managed to capture a few nice shots of me dancing anyway...




It was a lot of fun. Both times. The second weekend was like Dejavu though... which was rather weird, but at least the eye had cleared up by then! I liked the informal, relaxed mood of the whole event and if you are looking for a festival that gets that balance right between learning and enjoying dance and spending time with other women who enjoy it. This one is for you!

here's a wee video taken there by EverythingEgyptian of me dancing Shic Shac Shok;








Arabic in songs- commonly heard words;

It always helps whilst dancing to a song if you know what it means.
Sometimes a translation give you the meaning of the song but not the actually word for word direct translation. This is fine, but it helps if you can recognize a few of the actual words so you can indicate in your dance that you know them. 
Don't however feel you have to mime every word you hear. I've seen that done and it just doesn't work. But occasionally, if you mime a word here and there, it will give the impression to all Arab speakers watching that you understand the lyrics fully! 
This list is by no means exclusive... But hopefully you will find it useful and informative. 

Ana - I / me
We- and
Enta- you (m)
Enti- you (f)

Habibi- my darling (m)
Habibti- my darling (f)
Hayati- my life
Omri- my life , enta omri- you are my life
Hob- love
Baheb to love
Bahebik- I love you
Howa- wind, but also another word for love
Zay- like, similar to.
Zay il howa- like the wind

Elb / qelb- heart
Add an i on the end to make it possessive. elbi - my heart
Eid- hand, eidi- my hand
3Ein- eyes, eyouik- your eyes, eini- my eyes

Shams- sun
Amar- moon
Donya- world and also means life
Nour- light

Ouli- tell me
Sibni- leave me
Khalass- finish
Gambi- beside me
Ta-alli- come to me
Yalla- let's go
Shuf- to see
Bos- to look
Bosa- kiss
Faakir- to remember , lissa fakir- I still remember

Shwaya- a little
Fein?- where?
Taht- under
Foq.- above, on top. Min taht le foq.- from down to up (sexual connotations)
Mish/mush- 'not' - put in front of any word to negate it. Hinna- here , Mish hinna- not here.

Zaman- a long time ago
Dilwati- now
Abiden- never
Teni- again

Washtini- I miss you
Magnoon- crazy
Nar- fire/hell
Walla/ wallahi- I swear to god

Aywa- yes 
Ayoo- yes (Alexandrian)
La'a- no

Helwa- sweet/ beautiful
Gameela- beautiful
Gamda- strong (in sexy way)
Moza- sexy (In a curvaceous way)
Awii- very

These next two are popular in shaabi;
Ashra alla ashra/ sitta illa sitta/ maya maya- 10/10, 6/6, 100%
Coca- coca cola, ie shape like a cola bottle.

Bint- girl, Binet- girls
Waled- boy, 'ya waled'- an exclamation 'oh boy!'
Ragal- man
Sitt- woman
Besha- sir (from pasha)
Allah- god
Layla- night
Yom- day, ayam- days
Kool- every, kooliyom- everyday
Sena- year
Bahr- sea


As you can see, it's a bizarre vocabulary list for a language, but go see how many you can hear in the Egyptian songs you are dancing to! Hope it helps! 

I do not speak Arabic fluently by any means, but if you have the odd word or two you would 
Like me to translate (or ask someone better qualified for advice) please do leave a comment... 

Please do not ask me to translate entire songs... There are some fabulous sites already where you can find this, eg  www.shira.net 


Tuesday, March 11, 2014

These past 6 months have been hell... Here's why.


Ok.... Here's the story that only a few close friends know already... Of how difficult the time has been for me since last summer. As a public figure I have tried to stay upbeat on Facebook and here on the blog throughout that time. It was horrible. Feeling like my entire life was a lie.

Now there I have reached the light at the end of the tunnel, so I can share the darker days too.

Back in April, I was with Ellie and Ahmed Harfoush in the Fairmont hotel, just having a wee beer and catch up. A head of marketing came over to ask Ahmed if he knew any female singers he could recommend. Fate was being kind! Ellie did an audition for them that same afternoon. In addition to a couple of jazz songs, She sang one salsa song, so Ahmed and I got up to dance, and I danced with the managers too. At the end of the audition they said "yes, Ellie, we want you, and Lorna, we want you too". "Me?" I asked, "but I'm a bellydancer". "Yes, we know we need a bellydancer and we want you to do that and also perform with Ellie when she sings".
Just like that. We both were offered work and a double act was born. We were both so very excited.
That was April.
Egypt wasn't exactly politically stable at that time, and Morsi was still in power. Nothing happened about our contracts or work visas for months. I lost all hope that it would even happen. When we returned from UK after Ramadan, the evening curfew was imposed, so no one was working in our industry at all. We sat home night after night. It was a difficult time.

In September we signed contracts and in order for the Fairmont to process the work visa, I had to resign from the Pharaohs.

Here is an excerpt from my diary in December, when I was in Shanghai teaching. Feeling low and alone.. Warning- it's highly emotional stuff;

I quit my job at the Pharoahs after 7 years because I had a dream job offer. Contract signed the whole works... And now, 4 months after contract signed, 4 months of no work, they tell me they can't get me a work visa. I have been rejected.
I am distraught.
I'm kicking myself for thinking that something wonderful would happen to me. How naive and stupid. I should have heeded my mothers words;
"Life is not fair, Lorna, get used to it"
Life in Egypt is NEVER fair.
I'm still not used to it. It still hurts like hell. Every single time.
They tell me it's been rejected, but not the reason why.

You must have a dream. Everyone tells you that if you have a dream, then you have something to strive for. What they don't tell you is that a dream is worthless if no one else believes in you. Or If the government is against you.

it's not fair.
I want to kick and scream and slam doors.
ITS NOT FAIR

All that and I still can't help blaming myself. The guilt. If I had just been content where I was at the Pharoahs with low pay and the lack of respect they show for artists, at least I would still have a job and work papers. Why did I have to be so greedy? Why did I have to aim my sights higher?

I just really don't want to listen.
I don't want it to be over.
I want that feeling when on stage with my band felling like I own the world. That the music and I are one. I've not had that since, well, 5 months at least. I am already having withdrawel symptoms and was 'just' coping cos I thought it was all going to happen bigger and better very soon.

 Now? Now, I am losing it.

There- so as you can see, my actual mental state was pretty shockingly low.
When I returned from China, I had to sit though Christmas and New Year, the busiest time for dancers, without work or work papers. Since I was still trying to somehow get my work papers, I also had to stay in Egypt, so couldn't even go home to my family (even if I had had the money for the flight!)

Then, on Hogmanay I had a conversation with one of the senior managers at the Fairmont who expressed confusion as to why I no longer wanted to work there. This was like an electric shock. What? Of course I want to work there! That's why I quit a job I'd had for over 7 years for it! Seemingly, something had got lost in Chinese whispers... Thankfully on hearing this and realising there had been some misunderstanding, they decided to reopen my case and try for a third time for my visa!

To do this I would have to be outside of Egypt when they put in the application. But there was no point going straight away due to new year, Coptic Christmas and referendum's meaning government offices would be closed and busy a lot during this period. I was also warned that there was still a high chance my visa would be rejected. Those were a long 3 weeks, sat at home without work and not even able to dream. At the end of January I headed back to UK, not knowing how long I would be there for, and not knowing what the outcome would be. It could all still be for naught.

Thankfully I was able to at short notice organise a few workshops and performances, which helped keep me sane and also helped cover the cost of the flight to be there! Huge thanks Elspeth, Katy, Tracey, Laura and Adele for your speedy support in doing this for me!

Friends who had to listen to all these emotional rantings during that time- thank you for your patience and care. You helped!

Then I get the phone call from Ellie. I had just finished my workshop in Belfast. She just said- "come home. It's done. You're approved". I burst into tears, right there in front of my students! Not sure what they must have thought of me!

So then I had to get back to Egypt ASAP to finish the visa process which of course takes longer than it should and much longer than you want it to!

I started work at the Fairmont on Feb 25th 2014.

10 months after the initial job offer.
6 months after I resigned from the Pharaohs.
4 months after Ellie had started there.

I couldn't believe it was actually real. That I was at long last there. That all my distress and insecurity of the past 6 months were just that, my insecurities. Not fact. That at long last I could get back onto stage with my band and do what I love.

Then there is of course all the usual band drama- but that can be another blog entry, this one is already way too long!

Of course there was then 'the glitch'. After performing for one week the mosanifat police told the hotel that if I continued working with only the receipt for the visa rather than the actual card, which they still hadn't issued, then I would be arrested. This could have been readily fixed by an under the table payment, but one of the reason why I do want to work at the Fairmont's is because they have higher morals than that and refuse to do anything unless it's done in the right way. Frustrating when I'm sat home without work, but admirable and I can't help agree with them.

So, we had no choice but to cancel last week shows. I stayed home with all these fears and stresses revisiting me. That I had hoped too much and that somehow it was all going to be taken away from me again!

Tonight I have work at Bab El Nil, in the Fairmont.
My papers are complete.
I am legal at last.
Yippeeee!!!!!

It has been a hell of a journey.
Thank you to those of you who have stood by me through it all. My show tonight is in your honour!



Sunday, March 02, 2014

The amazing case of the stolen iPhone by Sherlock hol....... Ok, by me!

The story of my stolen IPhone, as requested by the 200+ people who commented on my Facebook update! 



On Monday I went to mohandiseen to buy bow ties for my band's uniform for the new job. (They look very chic!)

When I left the shop I hailed a taxi, and as soon as I sat down, realised that the man in the shop had wittingly, or unwittingly (I suspect the former) given me one empty box. He had done me out of a bow tie!

I stopped the taxi instantly and asked if he wouldn't mind waiting for me. He said no problem.

I went into the shop got my missing bow tie  and returned to the street to find my taxi had not waited. This is unusual in Cairo, usually once a taxi has a fare, especially a foreign one,  they hold onto it. Taxi's usually like to wait since their meter keeps running, but they are not using petrol, so they end up better off. I looked around, couldn't see him and so hailed another cab.

 Instantly I realised my iPhone wasn't in my bag, that I must have dropped it in the previous taxi and thus worked out the reason why the driver hadn't waited! He had driven off with my phone, intentionally!

The new taxi driver was lovely and tried calling my number for me numerous times... It just rang out. I drove to meet Ellie, which was where I was going and she instantly managed to get onto the 'find my iPhone' app and mark my phone as lost ( so the theif couldn't make calls or access info and only incoming calls would go through). We also initiated tracking. He (or at least my iPhone) was in the center of Imbaba, a relatively poor area of Cairo. We jumped a new taxi, explained the situation to the driver, Sayed and asked if he was with us on our quest. He was. We were heading into imbaba on the heels of the theif!

This is when I realised that maybe this wasn't such a wise idea. Ok, it was 2pm and daylight, but still, two white chicks in that neighborhood, accusing someone of theft, would attract a lot of unwanted attention.

I called my labisa (dresser), who lives in that area, and she called round her two brothers who met us to join the search and act as our bodyguards. One jumped in our taxi with us the other drove his toktok behind. Yes, we were doing a taxi and toktok sequence from a Bond film, driving through tiny dirt streets against the clock, blocked by cows, trucks, people, souq's you name it.... It was like going into another world. Not the Cairo I live in, but a much poorer, busier and more colourful one.

We were following the theif's movements via the map on the ipad... He kept stopping along the way, we presume trying to sell the phone at various mobile shops. Time was ticking. We were scared he would find someone who could unblock the phone and we were scared the battery on the phone would die thus stopping the tracking!



He  (taxi driver thief) stopped at one spot for a while so We tracked him to a narrow side street. The brothers and I walked down the street, asking people if there was a taxi driver who lived in this street. One boy answered there are about four! So close and yet so far. I felt our chase was for nought. There were women hanging over their balconies, having a good look at the foreigner who was accusing one of their own of being a thief. It was rather intimidating.

Kids crowded round us, interested in the ipad and how the map worked. The app allows you to sound an alarm, which I did, but the area was too full of people and noise. It couldn't be heard, but we knew we were in the right place. The tracking spot on the map hadn't moved.

Thankfully the thief was not too bright, to say the least. He had taken the phone home to his wife and when we tried to call again, this time she answered!

She tried telling us that yes she had the phone but she was in another area of the city. We explained to her that we knew the phone was in the same street we were standing in, ie in her home.

 We offered her money for return of the phone. We said 50le, she said no way, it's worth more than that, however she then agreed to 100le (approx £10 sterling). She couldn't bring shame on her family though by bringing the phone out Into the street while we were there because all her neighbors would know what she and her husband had done, so she suggested to meet one of the brothers at Medan kitkat to exchange the money and iPhone.

So the tracking began again.... We headed towards kitkat.

And so did she, with the phone.....  until she didn't. Instead of turning towards kitkat she took the imbaba bridge over the Nile to a different area of town. It was quite an educational tour for Ellie and I, but spoiled by the sick realization that she wasn't going to meet us to do the handover after all.

This is where we have to curse iPhone battery life. We were watching the % run down, 20%, 15%, 10%, 8%..... And shut down.... It never gives you those last few % does it?

Yes, the battery ran out and the tracking discontinued. If we had just been 10 mins earlier... Or if I hadn't used that alarm so much, or or or... I was kicking myself and at the same time as being happy with Apple for developing the tracking system, also being furious with them for not doing sometime about their battery life!

Gutted we questioned the locals in the last reported site of the phone, and went to the local police station there. The police were far more interested in how this imbaba man would know me a foreigner, and in what my job was. It was intimidating. We were scrutinized and made to feel very uncomfortable. They sent an officer with us to question people in the last house it was seen to be in but to no avail.

We gave up... For a short while.

Ellie was already late for work by this point (6pm) and I was late for my band rehearsal.

We each left the phone issue to the side and went to our respective jobs, Ellie to sing at Fairmont, me to whip a band into shape for my first night at Fairmont the following day....

At 10pm, I went with another friend to dokki police station. I was sure that they would be unable to help, but it also knew that if the phone should be charged and reappear on my tracking... Then I was determined to catch this thief and his greedy wife. So should that happen, I wanted/needed the support of the police!

Dokki police sent us with an officer to imbaba station (him on his motorbike, us in the car) since we had the home address of the theif. That station was a pleasant surprise. They were all very lovely to me and very interested in knowing what people in the UK thought of Egypt. They were amazed I had gone earlier into imbaba myself and were laughing and offering me a job with them! It was all very relaxed and friendly. A sharp contrast to the armed men and sandbags and tank at the the station door!

So another officer went in the car with us to go into the heart of imbaba to yet another police station, my 4th of the day. Once they heard my story we all again piled into cars, and headed to the address of the theif! So there was me, my friend and 6 police officers...

Once we got there, and the place looks very different at night, we were told to stay in the car while the officers went to investigate. They knew the building was either the 1st or 2nd building on the letter, but no more information. They walked down the street side by side, so that no one could escape the street and went to explore the houses.

While we were sitting in the car I said to my friend , "what do you think they will do.. ?" He suspected they might beat the guy up. I was worried. I didn't want any innocent parties to suffer.

When the police reappeared, after what seemed like a long long time and yet was probably less than ten minutes, they had with them the boy from earlier that day. The one who had said they were many taxi drivers living in the street.

 'Its ok, we know who he is and we have his son"! The boy knew along along earlier I was looking for his father and didn't want to be the one to grass him up! I looked the boy  who was about 14/15 years old in the eyes and said " why didn't you help me earlier? I didn't want to do this, I didn't want to bring the police". He just said "I'm sorry".

So the boy and two of the police officers got into the back of our car and we drove back to police station number 4. The father had been told he wouldn't get his son back until he brought he phone. I was worried they may hurt the boy, but actually it was the opposite. They were very kind with him. It was touching to see. I found out that all the police officers at that police station had actually grown up in that area, so I guess could perhaps relate to the boys predicament.

The father came limping in about half another later to the station, and came straight up to me denying that he had intended to steal the phone or that he had even known it was mine. It was a panic lie. But, for the sake of his son, I had already decided not to press charges.

The police were relieved that I had chosen that option and went to the task of 'making up' the days events. We had to put a report through all the same, saying that the taxi driver had discovered the lost phone in the taxi and brought it to his nearest police station as soon as he finished his shift, with no mention of the greedy wife toktok chase or anything else. The whole family, because the mother and brother were there by this time, along with the son and father were sent away with a warning. The shame of their entire neighborhood knowing they were thieves was already enough for them to deal with.

I got home 2.30am, 13 hours after the theft, with my iPhone. I couldn't believe it.

The police were amazing, with the only exception being that 1st station and only because they thought they were protecting me from this man I had come in with!  Everyone else treated me with respect and care.

'Find my iPhone' is the best app ever, and if you don't have it installed on your iphone, do it!

Lessons learned that day:
- in Egypt especially, your character will be judged on the people you are seen with. If you have to go to the police etc for anything, take someone with you with a high social standing. It shouldn't be the case, but you do get treated with more urgency and respect. Sad but true.
- Egyptian police are mostly very helpful and compassionate, and funny.
- always keep your iPhone as fully charged as possible, just in case
- don't call the phone excessively or sound alarm too often whilst tracking, to save battery
- have a good strong cover on your iPhone, my thief tried to remove the cover, but it broke when he did and he obviously was scared he had broken the phone because he didn't even try to remove the SIM card!
- imbaba is called little China because there are so many million, yes million, people living in that one area.
- Cairo is much poorer and more densely packed than I had realised, even after living here for 8 years. Many many People are existing on nothing.
- all Egyptian friends have told me they would have just given up the search, so it pays to keep at it , even if it seems hopeless. This has been an on going life lesson in so many ways over the time I have lived in Cairo! Don't give up, you are always thrown a rope eventually.
- it never pays to be Greedy. That wife could have had 100le, or even 200le if I am honest, in her pocket, if she had returned the phone, rather than the family shame they all have to face now after being pulled into the police station.
- ALWAYS look back into a taxi seat after stepping out of it to see if anything has dropped onto it.
 - I can exist for up for 15/16 hours on just one wafer biscuit. (Kindly bought for me by taxi driver)