shrek character

Walking back home from lunch this afternoon with a friend, we received the usual amount of street attention... ( pssssst in the ear, ya helwa, ya assel..... etc etc )It was just as frustrating and annoying as usual.

However, one comment from a teenage boy just had us in stitches, although we were careful, of course not to let him see that!

so go on... see if you can guess what is the most likely line to grab our attention and make us go over and speak to him (not!)......................


....


...


no... you couldn't guess could you.........

it was........



.....





'I am donkey, I am donkey'



well.......................what can you say? ...........

we'd have to agree really, wouldn't we?!!!!

Back from the Beach....

Ah... that was nice.

3 days of sunshine and lying about doing very little, chatting, eating, partying, making new friends and laughing a lot.

Stayed in a 'camp' this time.... called the Green Valley Hotel. It was cheap (only 40le for a single room) and very central- right on the beach. It was basic and the palm trees were annoying because the brushed against the ceilings at night and woke you up.... but other than that- fabulous view of both the sea and the mountains.... what more could you ask for at that price really?

As for partying- there is only 2 places really at night time. Tuta has closed down (for sale) so that only leaves Rush and Tree. We went to Rush on the friday and they had conga player accompanying the house music, and then a fire dancer too. Tree on saturday was much quieter- but the music was more to my taste ( mostly r&b/ hip hop) so we kept the dancefloor busy all night! A lot of fun. Amazing watching the sharks circling and gathering though!!!

The bus journey is the worst part of a weekend in Dahab... 9.5 hours on a bus. The way there was ok- they ran 2 arabic films and that was great for me- trying to pick out the words i actually understood! The way back we all tried to sleep, but it was cold on the bus. I really feel for unsuspecting tourists who get off the bus in Cairo though. The taxi drivers are waiting to pounce on you the second you get off the bus and they charge huge prices... the tourist police who stand by the entrance to the station not much better- persuading you that these prices are fair, when they are not (esp at 6 am when there is no traffic at all on the road anyway!!!) Would not like to have been in that situation without any arabic or without our Egyptian friend to help us through!!!

We'll see what my work rota has in store for me this summer- but hopefully it'll involve a few long weekends here and there- occasional time out, in the sunshine, is just what a girl needs to cope with the day to day pressures of life in Cairo!!!

back to work now- 3 sails today. looking fwd to it.

House proud

Let me start this entry saying I am house proud..... but not proud of where the house is- or should I say of the people who 'live' in this area!!!! I just walked home from a restaurant- 15mins walk..... The number of cars who trailed me, turned round and round to follow me, calling names.... just saying hello hello... i love you etc etc during those 15mins was amazing! Funnily enough I didn't feel scared- not really sure why. Maybe once the summer kicks in for sure and there are even more arabs in town then it will become more threatening- it did last year. Hate not being able to walk home- but then- I guess its hard to be scared when there are just SOOOO many people in the streets- not like at home if you walk at midnight there is no-one on the street except yourself- THEN being followed is scary- rather than here where it just feels downright pathetic!

Anyway- I wanted to show off my lovely curtains on my balcony. They keep the sun off the livingroom windows, give me privacy from the neighbours, and mean I was able to have hour today lying in the sun in my bikini- wonderful! If anyone knows the actual name for this type of pattern that would be great.... Its the material they usually make tents out of here to celebrate weddings, parties, festivals and funerals !!! I love it cos its so colourful and cheerful.


And this is the wonderful carpet I bought myself in Siwa..... the colours haven't shown too well , maybe due to the sun this afternoon... but I have this on the floor of my balcony- so I can lounge about outside- wonderful!!! Cushions are getting stuffed this weekend- so more pics to follow once the scene is properly set...........


Another Siwa purchase- I couldn't resist these palm leaf made baskets..... Great for hiding the washing power in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And of course - my dance studio................ Love this room!!!! Sound system. Mirrors (on 2 walls), lovely wooden floor, enough space for me plus maybe 3/4 students. Perfect for private classes. Fabulous. I have found myself just wandering in and out of the studio having a wee potter about in front of the mirrors- testing a few moves here and there- its a joy to have! feel very lucky to be in a place big enough to fit it in!!! I have even been known to go in there and do stretching for a bit too!!!!!!
Wen dancers rent out my spare rooms- they get full use of the studio if they want it.... so far it seems to be a pretty good selling point for my rooms!!!!!!! lots of people coming to see me this year! looking fwd to it!

And this next pic has nothing at all to do with my flat- but I spotted this can in the supermarket this afternoon and had to buy it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Scotland is never really very far away!!!!

Wake up call…..

Who gave my wakey uppy man a megaphone????????????? I am going to kill whoever it was!!

At approx 9am every morning a man walks around my whole neighbourhood looking for things- any old things… a rag and bone man I guess. I have seen him with anything in his cart from a man's shoe (just one!) to a sideboard.

I still haven't found out exactly what he shouts as he does his rounds to alert you he is there… but as Margaret pointed out when she was staying with me on holiday, it sounds like 'wakey uppy'. Anyway- since yesterday it just got a whole lot louder- grrr!!!!

Since writing this i have had more conversations with people about this wakey uppy man and seemingly the word he is trying to call is 'Ro Ba Beekeya' which is Italian for 'Old things' (any Italian speakers please feel free to correct me on any of this!) It ends up being shortened to 'beee keya' which for some reason really does sound like 'wakey up'!

It comes from the time when the Italians were a large influence in Egypt
(to read all about Italian involvement in Egypt check out this webpage http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italians_in_Egypt)

and since not all of the Italians living in Egypt were rich there is some debate from people I talk to whether it was the Italians themselves who wandered around shouting for old things, or whether it was the poorer egyptians hoping to get better things in their cart, by appealing to the richer Italians!)


Another form of wake up call happened this afternoon. I went to pay my internet bill at 11.30am. just a short walk from my flat. I got curb crawled the entire way home. In broad daylight (wearing jeans and fleece top!) . I was shaking by the time I got to my door- hoping the bowab would be there to send him packing but he was at the mosque. So I just cried on the phone to a friend for a while.

It really will be THE reason I leave this country. I love my job, and the weather and lots of things about Cairo, but these men who act no better than dogs.......... it's horrific. The bowab told me after that if it happens again I've to take the guys number and he'll go with me to the police station to report it. But the thought of being in a police station with all those men doesn't exactly relax me either! As expected my band all just said its cos i am so beautiful....... well- I dont believe it......... these men are animals who don't really care what the prey looks like just so long as they make their kill. It makes me sick.

GRRRRRRRRRRR

1st day in Cairo..........

.............. not so good.

in fact- it had me walking along the street sobbing loudly by the end of it!

Whilst visiting a friend today, her bowab's son (caretaker) switched off the lift while I was in it. then came to my 'aid', he opened the door with his key- and eventually moved out the way when i refused to jump into his arms. then he touched my arm and I gave him a row and told him not to..... but all this was just an excuse to then touch my chest. I shouted and hit him and he ran away scared- but I was still shaking for a good while after it. suspect he'll be losing his job for that. I was shaken, but in control.

THEN.................... walking home this evening, 9pm, on hugely busy gamet d'owel street, a man on a bycycle just reached out one hand and grabbed one breast as i was trying to cross the road!!! I shouted after him and burst into tears then and there in a very busy part of the street. Everyone around must have seen what had happened, and certainly heard me shout and saw me cry- but NO-ONE did anything.................. I was gutted. I have never felt so repulsed and scared anywhere before. In all these years I have spent so much time in Cairo, and although the name calling can wear a girl down, and I have had the occasional bump pinch etc... to be groaped twice, in the same day- it has floored me. I really always believed if you were obviously wronged in the street like that, there were far more good people around who would help you, than bad, or frightened people who would pretend it hadn;t happened. That has blown my confidence in the 'egyptian hospitality' completely out the water.

was going to go out tonight with friends, but going to bed early now instead.................... can't face it.

God grant me the strength to pull the next one off his bike!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ramadan- again.

today is the 2nd day of Ramadan... so 'Ramadan Kareem' and 'kollo sena wentu tayyibeen' ie peaceful ramadan to you all and may all your year be good!

What shocked me was on wednesday night- just before ramadan starts I had almost as much hassle in the street as I had on monday night walking home. cars curb crawling, comments from everyone and stones thrown not to mention firecrackers thrown at me! The night beofre the fast. What- they had to release all the testosterone left in them or what???

Last night I thought I would experiment, so a friend and i went out to see if we could find any bars/clubs etc open on the 1st night of Ramadan. We found one bar in the whole of cairo serving alcohol, to foreigners- not to Egyptians, but you weren't allowed to dance. Egyptians were served beer- but only if they were christian and only if they agreed to drink it out a tea cup- in case anyone came in! Oh and the bar manager thought nothing of flicking through pron channels on the TV while we were there too- I'll refrain from naming the bar in case it gets closed down- but you see what I mean about contraditions! Bizarre!!!!

I really do find Ramadan the lonliest time of the year in Cairo- not enough work, no partying, salsa is cancelled, pool closes early (assuming you can find someone who will agree to go with you!) ,everyone is spending time with their families. It is the hardest time for me anyway! It's going to be a long month......................

Evening news article wed 11/7/07

well- Elspeth's suggestion that I let the Evening News know I was coming back from the real pyramids, to the ones on portobello beach worked- Thanks for the PR advice speth!!! while I was home they interviewed me and photographed me for this article which I have copied and pasted for those of you who missed the evening news on wedensday night.
I've also edited it slightly... (my comments are in brackets in this colour!!!)

Porty's Lorna wobbles way to Cairo fame (shaky intro me thinks!!!)
ROSALIND GIBB

THE dancer casts her audience a sultry look from behind a sequin-edged veil as she gyrates barefoot on the Cairo restaurant boat's tiny dance floor. Her close-fitting gold Saaidi dress shows off her hourglass curves as she moves.

As she tosses her head seductively, the light reflects off her cascading dark locks. In a mesmerising movement, her hips circle to one side, then low down and up fast on the other side, and the audience of Arab diners is left spellbound.

Despite her skill, the dancer working on the Golden Pharaoh restaurant boat on the Nile is not an Egyptian who has been belly-dancing all her life. The stunning performer is (age missed out thank you very much!) Lorna Gow from Edinburgh, who has been wowing Egyptians with their own art form since she arrived in Cairo 15 months ago.

It's a world away from overcast Portobello, where she is staying this week on a visit home to see family and friends.

Born and bred in Edinburgh, Lorna became the first Scot to belly dance professionally in Cairo when she emigrated there just over a year ago - quite a feat for someone who had never tried any type of dance until she was 21, and only took up a belly dancing nightclass as a fun way to keep fit.

Lorna works on the Nile and Golden Pharaoh boats, cruising restaurants that cater for both tourists and Egyptians.

She says: "I love it, dancing on stage every night to an audience that, because of the culture, understands and appreciates what I'm doing. It's great working with Arabic musicians too. You are really interacting with them and the dancer plays a big part in creating the music."

Lorna was working for the Department of Work and Pensions (in my day it was called 'the benefits agency' - didn't realised it had changed?!!) in Wester Hailes when she began her journey into the exotic world of belly dancing.

Quickly realising she had an aptitude for it, before long she was called upon to begin teaching.
She became one of the main belly dance teachers in the area, taking around 20 classes across Scotland.

Her love affair with Cairo began on a dance holiday to the city ten years ago, and it cast such a spell over her that she returned around 20 times in 11 years, even organising trips for her students.

Then came the opportunity for a long-term stay. "When I was thinking about auditioning for the job I really wasn't sure I'd be good enough," she says.
"But numerous people I spoke to said I should go for it. I asked one of the top choreographers, Raqia Hassan, how long she thought it would take before I'd be capable, and she said I was good enough now, which gave me loads of confidence."

Despite having a fiance in Edinburgh, Lorna moved to Cairo in March last year, originally for six months. Those six months have grown into 15 but Lorna has been relishing the experience.
"It's a mad, chaotic, crazy, dirty city, bustling with life and passion," she says. "I love it. It feels real here. People are very hospitable and the weather is a heck of a lot better.

"They live the day during the night in Cairo, because of the heat. They do things during what we might think of as unsociable hours. For example, after a show at about 1.30am, I will phone a friend and arrange to go for a meal. Shops are open until midnight. It's a 24-hour city.
"It's so huge you can't have everyone rushing around at the same time, so I suppose they do kind of shift living.

"The hardest part has been learning the language. It's getting easier though. None of my musicians speaks (much) English so, for about six or seven hours each evening, I have to speak Arabic."

Lorna performs her half-hour show up to six times a night and the number of performances requires a high level of fitness.
"Physically it's very demanding and especially in the heat - it can be 30 degrees at one in the morning," she says.

"But I know I am very lucky, finding something I am good at and that I love so much."
She also credits one of her teachers, Sara Farooq, as having helped the credibility of her performances. "She is fabulous at helping me get into the heads of my Egyptian audiences and really understand what the songs and music are about," Lorna says.

As well as the boat tours, she also performs at weddings and private parties. With her brown hair (naturally blonde, she dyed it when she arrived in Egypt) and dark eyes, many people assume she is Egyptian.
However, she says it doesn't surprise people too much when they learn she's Scottish.
She explains: "Around half of the top belly dancers in Egypt are foreign. Egyptians have a feel for dance that you strive to get. But foreign dancers are generally better trained and perhaps have better technical skills."

Lorna says another obstacle apart from the language has been the bureaucracy and red tape she's encountered. "You really need to know people to get anything done, so obviously that is getting easier," she says.
"Another thing I find difficult is the hassle from men.
"Just walking along the road is like walking past about 20 building sites at once, and it is really wearing."

Lorna returns to Edinburgh every three months to see family and spend time with her fiance. She met Khalid, who owns the Moroccan Restaurant on Dundas Street, when she performed at the opening night.
So how does she cope with such a long-distance relationship? "Thank God for MSN!" she laughs. "We talk every night. He comes out to visit and I return to Edinburgh regularly.
"It can be trying for a relationship, but I think if we can survive this, we can survive anything."

As for the future, she is not making any set plans. "When I first came I meant to stay for a summer, and have now been here for 15 months," she says.
"So I don't want to make any promises about coming home. I've achieved what I set out to do, but there's always another step.
"First I wanted to dance in Cairo, then to get a work visa, then to dance with a band. I've done all those things, but now I want to dance with an orchestra - which would be amazing. You simply can't plan in a city like Cairo, it doesn't work like that, but that's partly what makes it such a special place because you just never know what's next."

IT'S ALL IN THE HIPS
BELLY dance is a Western name for an Arabic style of dance developed in the Middle East. It consists of percussive movements of the shoulders contrasted with slower fluid moves of the hips and torso.
It is big business in Egypt and the Middle East, where the top dancers have their own orchestras and limousines.
Dance teacher Hilary Thacker, who runs Hilary's Bazaar on George IV Bridge, which sells oriental clothes and dance costumes, is holding summer classes at Chi 36 on George Street and South Leith Parish Church, starting on July 24. Visit her website at www.hilarysbazaar.com or call 0131-556 7976 to book.
Dance Base in the Grassmarket, where Lorna Gow used to teach, also runs belly dancing classes. A new term will start in September. For more information call 0131-225 5525.
Participants should wear comfortable clothes and bring a scarf to tie around their hips.
This article: http://edinburghnews.scotsman.com/features.cfm?id=1074972007

The article had a photo too.... although I have a few more from that photo shoot which I'll add later (literally just in the door from the airport just now!)

Taxis, Arabs and STUFF!

I'm going to have to get myself a regular taxi driver.... I discovered last night I had to walk quite a way from my new flat before I got to one....... and even walking down the street with a huge empty suitcase I hardly got any hassle from the guys hanging around...... a little by the time I reached the main road... but over all less stress than in zamalek (very surprised at this!!!) Anyway- dont mind walkng for a taxi like that- only a problem if I am dressed up to go out....

I also have a feeling that the area I am now in will be over-run with Arabs in the summer...... we'll see. In the summer saudi's, kuwaiti's etc come to Cairo to escape the heat and have some fun........ And thats where the problem lies- having fun isn't always limited to good muslim behaviour! There seems to be a belief that if a girl is walking down the street then its only because she is looking for a man who's car she can jump into! anyway- I might be predicting problems that won't happen here- we'll see..................

the very frightening thing about this move has been discovering how much STUFF i have. Never mind the 2 suitcases packed full of dance costumes.............. theres also 3 suitcases of clothes and at least one full case of toiletries????? !!!!!!!! And if anything here I am underestimating! guess when I do eventually come back to UK I'll be having to break my life long habit of hoarding!!! In meantime though- I am going to buy more nice things' pictures , mirrors etc....... I stayed in this last place a year rather than the intended 6 months and regret now strongly that I didn't get big mirror in to practise dance in front of etc- not going to do that again!

Street Hassle

OK- I haven't put a moan in about this yet- but it has to be done. There are LOTS of policemen standing about the streets, outside banks, hotels etc etc. And they do, I believe, 12 hour shifts. Just standing there- can you imagine it. I pity them- I really do.

BUT.....

That does not mean they don't piss me off totally by commenting, whistling and occasionally even following me up the road. Really- I am sure I probably am the most exciting thing they have seen in the last 12 hours.... but the lack of self respect or restraint is depressing- and at times even threatening.

Through Ramadan it was easy- if a comment was made- especially through daylight, I would reply with 'Ramadan Kareem' which often made them remember themselves and stare embarresingly hard at their own shoes..... one guy even went into huge apologies- guess he felt that way he wouldn't have to add on another day of fasting in apology to God.
But now... to be honest- I try to ignore them..... but it is so hard and humiliating. Back home if someone make a sexual comment to you in the street you (well I anyway) wouldn't hesitate to tell them to get a life. Maybe once I am more comfortable and confident that my arabic won't be another cause for mirth I will get the courage to give them back what for- the way an Egyptian woman would!

Lots of the journeys I make by taxi are purely to avoid the street comments if I were to walk, and thats with lots of layers on- I'm not walking about in a vest top!!! I guess the fact that I am a) western and b) walking about on my own (therefore obviously 'lost' cause!) means that they think somehow if they comment I'll take it into my head to jump behind the bushes with them or something..... makes me sick.

... and thats just the policemen........ the people who are supposed to protect you and make you feel safe. I guess someone in training didn't explain that part of their job to them very well! So I won't waste time even commenting on the young boys - even as young as 6 or 7 who do the same... what else can they learn from their fathers i guess...............

Rant over....... Thats for letting me get that one off my chest!
Love to you all- unless you are a big mouthed policeman!!!!!!!!!

what no-one tells you....

No-one tells you that it'll be this hard.
There are so many wonderful things about life in Cairo, and in so many ways I am really happy and excited still about being here, even after 5months there are so many good things and interesting happenings…. But….

It's hard every morning having to check when you get dressed in the morning that what you wear isn't going to offend anyone, overly interest anyone, be cool yet covered and not show sweat.

It's hard not making any eye contact with anyone you pass in the street, because you know that if you do it'll mean they feel they automatically have the right to 'a piece of you'- even if its just the 'welcome to Cairo', or the 'you are beautiful'…… never mind the rest of the comments- or kerb crawling….

It's hard always having to have enough small change for every taxi journey, knowing that you'll probably still end up having the same argument as always- you knowing you are already paying more than an Egyptian would, but the driver still being dissatisfied with that, thinking that you, as a tourist, have so much more money than them.

It's hard being comfortable with the fact that my elevator sticks midday between floor 16 and 17…… and remembering always to have my mobile on me – just in case!

It's hard persuading Egyptians that yes- a Scotswomen can dance (obviously not hard if they actually get a chance to see me!!!!)

It's hard remembering that woman cannot live by chocolate and water alone…. But I certainly try!

It's hard remembering to drink triple the amount of water I would at home.

It's hard remembering not to say please and thank you all the time- even in Arabic. People here tell me that it is always really obvious spotting the British tourists / ex-pats, because we are too polite!

It's hard seeing my only nephew, Sam, grow up over MSN and not being able to hug him.

It's hard being away from Khalid- Thank God for MSN.....

It's hard living alone for the first time. Although I haven't read as many books ever in my life- always a plus side.

It's hard refusing work- but I have to- so many people want me to teach and I am so frightened of getting myself into the same pattern of life as at home with classes so filling my days that I have no time to improve me… 4 classes per week at the moment- plus privates….

It's hard going to Arabic class everyday, spending a fortune on classes and feeling that my Arabic is improving only in crawling steps- often going the same directions as wee Sam- ie backwards!

It's hard learning by rote- apart from maybe the alphabet and then my times tables at school I don't remember having to learn anything ever by rote- but the lists of verbs and all the conjugations drive me up the wall!!

It's hard continuing to speak Arabic to people when they continue to answer you in English. Thank god for Ahmed and Mohammed- my taxi drivers who help me and correct my grammar very patiently!

It's hard not being in control- at home if I want something done I do it. Here in Egypt, there is so much waiting around for other people to come through for you.

It's hard just waiting- they do it so well here- sitting around for hours. They get so surprised and amused when you lose your patience

It's hard learning to distrust everyone- or at least to take EVERYTHING that’s said with a pinch of salt…. So many broken promises. I hate becoming so cynical and having to wait until my patience increases!!!

It's hard meeting women. So easy to meet men, but after spending 9 years teaching full time and being surrounded by hundreds, literally, of women every week feeling alone so much of the time is hard. Miss all my girls!

It's hard having to be waxed, filed, and made up etc etc all the time. Image is everything here, unfortunately.

It's hard performing in a wig, outside, when the temperature is over 30degrees even at midnight- like wearing a woolie hat and scarf to sunbathe in!

It's hard justifying all the money spent on new costumes when I still do not have a regular contract for work- I'll put on some photos as soon as I get them!

It's hard dancing less….. both time wise here- after so many teaching hours in Scotland and performing all the time at Walima etc just physically less hours here, but also when I do perform to remember that it is an Egyptian audience not a British one- less moves, more attitude!

It's hard not to get totally chuffed and excited when Egyptians in my audience (esp. when its women making the comment!) compliment me on my dancing and assume I must have Arabic parents at least….

It's hard not being able to be totally open about my work here and the situation I am in….

It's hard even getting near the red tape never mind breaking through it.

It's hard to believe I have been here so long already and that my original time limit is almost up….. I'll be here now probably until at least next April- i.e. a year instead of 6 months!

It's hard ending this list…………………………..and have any of you who have managed to get to the end of it, appreciate that I am still very happy here, and want to be here and am so glad I have had this opportunity!

I'll do a list with more of the good stuff next time!!!