rebel with a shimmy

It is amazing the things that have hit me as different about being in UK compared to Cairo.

Obviously there is the fast pace of life, which i wrote about in my previous blog entry.

and then there is the freedom to be able to dance in public... without fear... if you want to.

speaking to people you dont know.... having a joke with the man in the shop without fear of it leading to a difficult situation.

today on the train i was writing up some notes for my bellydance workshops in Manchester tomorrow and Glasgow on sunday, and I tried at 1st to hide the writing form the man sitting next to me. Until i realised i didnt have to. Same goes when i then watched from youtube clips on my ipod... It felt like i was really rebelling and being naughty!!! That is how much Cairo has got under my skin!!!

I love living in Egypt. I love dancing in Egypt.

But I have always hated the social stigma attached to dance which means i can't be totally honest to people about what i do. Strangers are told i teach when they ask my occupation!

I guess, if i ever move back to UK (not that i am planning it in the near future!!Inshallah!) then the ability to hold my head up high and be proud of the life I live again and not be judged negatively for it will be the silver lining to the cloud of leaving Cairo! Hopefully that day is a long way away!

In the meantime, i am going to shimmy myself silly tonight at the Taste of Cairo night in Manchester. I don't know if they are ready for me or not.... i am feeling in a bit of a crazy mood!!

I'm off to dance and spread some of that crazy rebellious joy!

Hailstones and Hurry!

I am sitting here in Scotland writing this as the hailstones beat against the window. It’s very strange since the sun is shining at the same time. It took me quite by surprise! I am ok with it as long as it dries up by the time I have to head out of here to go and see a cuban band performing tonight. I have a hard life!

Just now it is also a fairly busy life! I have a list as long as my arm of things that need doing... some fairly urgently; like planning the workshop content for the 4 workshops this weekend in Manchester and in Glasgow and getting the papers together for my 2 month late tax return!

You want something done- ask a busy person. I seem to achieve so much when i am most time pushed. A lot of my life in Cairo I am working on gas mark 2, say... and of course 6 when i am on stage. Here in UK I feel often like the pot is bubbling over and the gas won’t turn off. Some of that is due to the fact that i have a limited time here to see everyone and do everything,  before i head back to Egypt. Some of it I think is just the way people live in the UK. There is a lot of pressure on achieving all you can achieve. Have the perfect home, job, family, looks, social life- oh and do that all at the same time- there is no room for any signs of ‘weakness’!!!

No wonder stress related illness is so huge. In Egypt there is massive poverty, and traffic and pollution certainly can stress people out too, even before you begin to discuss the political issues over the last year. However, people there seem to have more time, or make more time, to rest and see their friends and family in . For all the many things that I could pick out as problematic in that society, I have to say that we in the west, certainly in Britain, could learn a few things about prioritising people.

It is the same in dance. It is very, very easy to get caught up in politics of it all, the techniques and ‘execution’ of the dance but sometimes this unfortunately takes priority over emotion and interaction with the people you are dancing for. It is worth remembering that dance is a form of entertainment!

Bellydance, in my opinion, should be about your feelings and interpretation of the music and when performing, about how you put that information across to your audience. Don’t lose sight of the people element of dance. When you tackle dance as a project (and I am not suggesting that discipline and hard work don’t make you a better dancer, they definitely do!) but there is always a risk that you forget why you are dancing- because you love it. It makes you happy!!!

Take some lessons from Egyptians (and I don’t just mean in learning the latest step patterns) .... put your love into your dance and spread that love to the people you care about. That includes your audience!!!  Spread the happiness!!!

These are the places I intend to spread some of my happiness (as it were...) over the next two weeks here in the UK.....

Manchester- Friday 9^th - performance,   Saturday 10^th- 2 workshops.

 (contact Tracey for info and booking  bellydancer@btconnect.com  )

Glasgow- Sunday 11^th NADA AGM. 2 workshops and a talk

(contact Sarah sarah.pulman@ntlworld.com sarah.pulman@ntlworld.comsarah.pulman@ntlworld.comsarah.pulman@ntlworld.com  )

Edinburgh- Tuesday 13^th Performance (only a few places left- to book and for more info contact Elspeth swishandhips@hotmail.co.uk  )

Edinburgh – Saturday 17^th- workshops (to book contact Elspeth swishandhips@hotmail.co.uk  )

Dance and be happy!

sunshine versus sandstorms

I hear the weather reports from Cairo today are cold, windy and sandstorms. Someone must be looking out for me because today i am in Scotland were the sun is shining and the skies are blue! Although by tomorrow I will be in (hopefully sunny) London.

I have had a few very packed days so far in UK. No dancing yet, but much dancing related chat! Its amazing how much we can talk about dance isnt it? unfortunately often the talk is about the various people in dance, rather than the dance, music and culture they come from itself. I wonder if every field is like this? I know salsa dancing is but haven't experienced many other 'hobbies' so dont know if this is a dance related trait or not?!! Do stamp collectors get together and talk about other people who collect stamps more than about the stamps themselves? or is it that dance is about expressing feeling and personality- and therefore has a wealth of things to talk about?  Anyway, its all very interesting...

I had a very strange moment today when one of my dance friends here in Edinburgh was talking about something and in the middle of the cafe stood up and did some hip drops to demonstrate what we were discussing.... I swear my heart stopped. Not just because of the beauty of her dance (of ocurse!)  but because she was bellydancing in public!!! I couldnt' stop myself quickly scanning the room in case of any problems. The idea of dancing in a public place in Cairo is so alien to me that it fills me with panic!!! I dread to think what would have happened if she had done the same thing in Cairo. I had to keep reminding myself that we were in UK and that it was ok!!!

I love coming back here and seeing how the dance scene has progressed in the 6 years since i left. All the people who are now teaching. All the various styles of dance that have developed. I am looking forward to the Bellydance Trophies event this coming sunday to see the girls perform there too. Oh, and I am very excited to see Liza Laziza there too (she's performing and teaching at the same event as me) it will be lovely to catch up with each other outside of the Cairo scene. Liza and I are 2 out of the 3 British dancers to have ever worked in Cairo professionally (the 3rd being Yasmina).

I'm the only British dancer to be currently performing in Cairo (I'm writing that to remind myslef more than to inform readers. It still amazes me how far i have come and that still 6 years on i feel so lucky to be doing what i do!)

Back to packing... what to take to pass the time on a 9 hour overnight bus journey? Inshallah I'll be able to sleep! London here i come.....
 (Manchester and Glasgow the following weekend!!!)

Street sounds....

When I sit at home I hear many street noises..

Thankfully, my street is a quiet one, close to busy areas, but without the traffic of them. So I don’t have too much of the usual car horn pollution found in Cairo.


I sometimes, like now as I write this, have bird song too.
The call to prayer form the local mosque is beautiful. We are lucky to have a talented muezzin.


Then there are all the travelling salesmen:


Common calls include 'Lemon'... 'na3 na3' (mint) ... 'Robba beekia' (any old iron type of thing).


You also get wandering fortune tellers, knife sharpeners, and donkey carts with various fruits and plants. The list goes on...


Then you get the occasional skirmish that breaks out between the street people, the bowabs and shop keepers, delivery boys and police. Usually the ruckus is due to someone trying to drive down the street but finding the gap left by the parked cars is too small. Everyone tries to help in these cases. It often hinders rather than helps. But they try.


Today I heard a very strange sound. A woman’s voice over a megaphone. She was crying, loudly. So much that I could barely make out the words. Someone (I think her brother or son) needed an operation and she didn’t have any money to pay for it and she didn’t know what she could do. Begging basically. Driving through the streets very slowly with a megaphone attached to the top of a beaten up old taxi. Many people went up to her window and handed in cash. Then one woman, covered in her abaya with a huge hood which hid most of her face as well as her hair, shouted down to the woman to have some respect and not go begging with a loudspeaker and to move on. She was really quite angry. I was surprised in this neighbourhood that someone had shouted down from a balcony. It’s common in more ‘local’ areas... but I have never seen it before here. Her complaint was taken on the chin and the taxi moved off in a far swifter manner than it had arrived.


What is really sad about the whole thing is that this does happen. People do get to the point of desperation because they literally have nothing that people do die because they can’t afford the medication or operation to keep them alive. It’s horrific to imagine how desperate you must be to do something like that.


What is even sadder... is that me and my housemates had a discussion about it wondering if it was true or not, or if she was a very good actress who had hit on a very profitable way of making a living. It is hard to know. Cons are common, as they are around the world, especially in countries where poverty is so high.


Now I have a mental dilemma.


Do I wish that she’s for real- that he brother really is in such a state and she really can’t find any other way to keep him alive...  or do I pray that she is a smart con merchant and he is fine (if he exists).

Neither are very good measures of the state of this society just now.



It’s sad.

Lorna teaching and performing in UK March 2012

Here is some information about my upcoming uk tour. There are still some details to be added- but i thought I'd get this much out anyway, so you get make sure the dates are in your diary!!!

So far the dates are;


Sunday 4th March- London (workshops and performance)
Hosted by Bellydance Trophies. www.bellydance-trophies.com
For booking and info contact Farah via bellydance_trophies@yahoo.com

Private classes in London area also available Friday 2nd, Saturday 3rd and Monday 5th March. Contact me directly if you are interested in setting up a private class with me during those days in London. Bellylorna@hotmail.com



Friday 9th March- Manchester (performance with The Nile Band) Venue TBC

Saturday 10th March- Manchester (workshops and private classes) The Dancehouse, 10 Oxford Road, Manchester. M1 5QA. Hosted by Taste of Cairo.

Morning- Private class slots- contact me or tracey if interested in booking your slot now!
2-4pm Playing with Basics
4-6pm Modern v's Golden Oldies

£25 per workshop, or £40 for both.

For booking and info on all Manchester events contact Tracey on hello@tasteofcairo.com




Sunday 11th March- Glasgow (workshops and talk)
Hosted by NADA AGM at Royal Conservatoire of Scotland.

workshop 1 higher level- Cairo-lorna style
workshop 2 open level- Make your accents stand out
For booking and more info contact; http://www.facebook.com/search/results.php?q=nada%20agm&init=quick&tas=0.0014547995459768814#!/groups/11319949545/



Tuesday 13th March- Edinburgh (performance) details TBC
Hosted by Elspeth Swishandhips.
For booking and info contact Elspeth on swishandhips@hotmail.co.uk

Saturday 17th March- Edinburgh (workshops)
Hosted by Elspeth Swishandhips
Venue- Edinburgh studios. Upper 19 Arthur Street, Edinburgh, EH6 5DA.

Workshop 1- 12.15-2.15
Workshop 2- 2.45-4.45
Workshop cost £24 each or £45 for both.
For booking and info contact Elspeth on swishandhips@hotmail.co.uk


I will also be available in Edinburgh for Private Classes a large chunk of March, when i am not touring around! Contact me directly if you are interested Bellylorna@hotmail.com

dance and drama..

This week sees Cairo clashes back in international news. First the horrific violence at the Port Said football match on Wednesday... then every day since then in Cairo, as people take to the streets to mourn for the dead from the match and demand SCAF (Supreme council of the armed forces) speed up the transfer of power to Egypt’s newly elected parliament.

There are so many conspiracy theories and stories and lies going around that it is really hard to work out the ‘truth’ of the situation, if there is one....

However most people (except SCAF) are in agreement that the violence in Port Said’s match with the Cairo team Al Ahly, was not your usual football hooliganism. This was orchestrated. Planned. The ‘thugs’ had weapons in the stadium. The security at the match certainly left much to be desired.

So, if it was organised, who set this up? State TV broadcast blamed America and Germany for instigating the violence!

Today I was talking about it all with my Egyptian cleaner, whose brother is in Tahrir now. Her entire family are against him going, and they are‘for’ the army. He goes anyway. In the revolution last year he went to Tahrir with 2 close friends, and came back alone. They were killed in front of him. He is involved on every level in what he sees as a fight needing to be fought, a fight for freedom for Egypt, to the death if need be. He is among the thousands who have been protesting downtown over the last 3 days.

My cleaner told me she blamed America for it all.... saying that they want to ‘break’ Egypt as they have done Iraq etc. This is what she said she learns from the local TV. She had heard that someone from al Qaeda was hiding out in Egypt and America was trying to bring Egypt to a state of civil war so it had an excuse to ‘invade’ and catch him. I tried to explain to her a bit about world politics. That although America hasn’t always been very wise in some of its global politics, it wasn’t as such in my opinion, ‘out to get’Egypt. It took a lot of persuasion to get her to even consider where might be a different way to think about this situation. She admitted that what she really wants is access to internet so she can read about it for herself, educate herself. And I have to agree with her. That is exactly the issue. Mubarak and his regime did not have any interest in promoting an educated population in the last 30 years, since once educated they might question his authority. In fact, you might say, exactly what is happening now. Egyptian people are very quickly educating themselves, and large amount of what they learn comes from the net.

So this is the Drama. And believe me, it is a ‘play’ where the scenes and characters change frequently. No-one yet knows the ending to this story. I only pray that between now and then, not too many innocent people lose their lives, and their livelihoods.

Which bring me to Dance.

My work is affected by the huge drop in tourism that any negative press bring to a country. I do understand people fear about Egypt just now. I strongly also believe that now IS a good time to visit Egypt. Come to Egypt! Help the economy of a people struggling to put enough food in their children’s mouths. Partly for selfish reasons of course, as I said my work has been severely affected this last year, but also for the other 22million Egyptians who depend on tourism for their livelihoods. It’s been a tough time. There are other reasons to visit. We don’t know what the future holds therefore there are things in the current Egypt which are really worth experiencing, and which might not survive the next years. Like dance.

Belly dance is already becoming harder and harder to find in Egypt. Less people have a dancer at their wedding, for financial and for religious reasons. People are going out less, due to the economic hardship which is affecting everyone in the world, and travelling less. So the nightclubs you find on Sharia Haram, for example, are often closing down or working limited days or hours. Some top 5 star hotels, which used to have a dance show every night of the week, are down to maybe one night per week, or special occasions only.

My boat, the Nile Pharaoh used to function with 2 boats, each working a minimum of 2 sails per evening (plus often lunch sails and late sails) and each of those sails had 2 decks open for business. The last year has seen the norm change down to one boat, one sail, and one deck per night. That is a massive drop, for us dancers who work there, but also for the rest of the employees. How long an employer can continue to function in these circumstances is anyone’s guess.

Everywhere in the world a sector of society which suffers greatly in any economic depression is entertainment. Restaurants, nightclubs, bars, theatre, dance. People stay at home when they need to tighten their belt.s This is happening here in Cairo too. Us artists are feeling it.

Dance festivals (for example, Nile Group and Ahlan we Sahlan festivals) although still being a fabulous way to immerse yourself in Egyptian dance for a week, are attracting less and less dancers from abroad who are scared to book a place, just in case things flair up.

This week I attended the opening festival of the Nile Group. The show was great with 2 stars of Egyptian dance; performing (Camelia and Tito) and one foreign dancer (Marguerite). But sadly, where only 18 months ago it was hard to find an empty seat at these events, the lowered attendance was notable. I do understand it is a risk some people are frightened to take... but I really wish people would come and support these amazing events which do so much for promoting and improving the level of Egyptian dance worldwide.

Come to Cairo-Dance here, watch dance here – while you can!!!!

Cairo in the Rain

I've lived with rain all my life... being Scottish. In Cairo however, the rain is more like liquid pollution, leaving black marks on your face and clothes. Since it is a relatively rare sight, the streets are not designed for it, and with no drains the roads become muddy rivers.

Tonight Cairo's rivers are flowing, making the normally prolific number of empty taxi's available to hire disappear. Not a night to be walking in the street.

I feel for those in tahrir, setting up to sleep the night in the rain in preperation for tomorrows celebration/ protest/ commemorate of a year since the revolution started. It's a cold wet start to an event that many of us have been dreading. There is a fear in the air about what might happen tomorrow. If there will be trouble, or not. Its a public holiday and shops and offices are all closed.

My work has even decided to close for the day. It seems nobody wants to cruise on the Nile on this auspicious day. Fair enough, if it was my business i would close too, but its hard on everyone how little work there is in Egypt if you are involved tourism at all. Thankfully the last 2 days i have had lots of chinese tourists come to see my show... i guess to celebrate the Chinese New Year.

Sharia Haram (Pyramid road) is closed for the next 2 nights.... avoiding giving troublemakers any cause to repeat the burning and looting of the clubs there that happened a year ago.

Egypt is progressing. On monday we saw the 1st ever voted in paliment meeting, watched all around the country on tv. Today the head of the army announced he was going 'to end the state of emergancy'. Perhaps I'll be sitting here tomorrow night saying that all is the same as usual........ but i have learned in my 6 years of living in Egypt, and over the last year of it in particular, the difference a day can make. I am, like everyone else i know, making plans for life as normal , the day after tomorrow, but being careful to add the 'inshallah' or hopefully' at the end of each sentence!

'Inshallah' 25th january will be a peaceful one this year, unlike last year. We don't want more fires needing put out, even if this rain could do a good job of it!

Christmas in Cairo.

I have had a wonderful Christmas in Cairo this year. Lots of fun nights out with friends....

I always spend this festive time with my family in Scotland, but this year, with work being so slow since the revolution in Cairo, I felt I just could not afford the time away from work, nor the cost of flights, to return for one week. It’s a sad decision to have to make... but i decided that if I was going to be in Cairo then I was going to make the most of it.

I told my work I wasn’t free the day of christmas and refused an order for that evening too, because I wanted to spend the day with my friends. I am not the only expat who stayed in Cairo and 10 of us got together on Christmas to spend the day as you should, appreciating lots of good food and being grateful for the friendship of people you love. It was a heart warming time away from the commercial onslaught which has become the whole of December in the western world. It was a Christmas which wasn’t focused around buying stuff. I think all of us felt much closer by the end of the meal, that our little group of friends had become a Cairo family, which is a lovely feeling when you are missing your ‘real’ family back home.

One friend, Laura from Northern Ireland and her husband, Garhy, cooked a giant turkey for us... I have honestly never seen one this big! Only thing was- they cooked it in their home... on the ohter side of cairo.... so on christmas day we were waiting to start our meal because the turkey was caught in rush hour traffic!!!

That only added to the fun of the day though and we devoured it when it arrived! It was really tasty too, very juicy.

Caroline, a friend staying with us in ‘Hotel Bellylorna’ from Scotland baked cupcakes, Yorkshire puddings and fresh bread too. Ellie and I were in charge of the soup, veggies, tatties and I made a huge trifle too, which took 3 days to finish off eating.

I was very proud of and impressed by us all. Usually our families do the dinner, it was the first time for us all to take charge, but we did no bad. It was truly a ‘typical’ and fantastic Christmas dinner.

I had a Christmas cactus tree.... decorated with lights.

I’d love to know that name of this plant- so if anyone can advise?? I’ve searched google and can’t find it!

We had our after dinner party games which was very interesting with our mix of Brits, Egyptians and Italian! It was interesting to see which things you just take for granted in each culture and the various different hand signals you use to suggest things. I now know some very strong hand signals to use in Italy if anyone ever upsets me!!!! It was the first time some people in the group had played charades...

I wrote the above shortly after Christmas day... and life has been keeping me away from the computer a lot so tried again to publish this (but blogger failed me!) on Christmas day round 2... Coptic Christmas day. Last night I watched some of the ceremony on tv (it was screened on nearly all the local channels). The army generals were there in attendance and the pope thanked them for coming and commented that the army and the people love each other. I know many who would question the validity of that comment, but i guess the desire for peace is what underlies it. Lets pray for peace in 2012.

... and for more bellydance!

I'm dreaming of a green Christmas...

I Love my new garden!

I went to the 'garden centre' on the bank of the Nile at Kitkat with Ellie on tuesday and we bought lots of plants to celebrate christmas with some green around us! I have tried to chose plants which will be a bit hardier than the last lot which died when they were killed through over fertilising them (it wasnt me!). I was so so sad when all my plants died. Now i am very very happy to have a lovely garden to look out onto!

Second day of my new balcony garden and i have a new flower already! That was a lovely thing to wake up to today!

Nasturtiums! I have been wanting to get these on my blacony ever since my friend Sarannah mentioned growing them in Luxor. They make me think of my mum. She always loved having them in any garden we have ever had.

My first attempt at a cactus garden... they will hopefully survive the temperatures it reaches in sunny mohandiseen. It wasnt cheap to buy though. Thankfully the man at the plant place was so sad that all my previous plants had perished (especially when i explained how it happened so he knew I hadnt killed them myself!) that he gave me really good prices for these ones.

It was lovely chatting with him about the plants and he was asking the names of them in my country and I was asking them in arabic. Ellie was laughing at me 'nerding out' about plants! Not that I remember any of them though, apart from this one, the large cactus on the left is called 'kersha' which is the name in arabic of the stomach lining of an animal, ie tripe!

My happy turtle with his 'umbrella tree' shell...

This cactus type tree is going to be our substitute christmas tree this year. We have a gathering of 8 friends planned for christmas day, turkey and everything... really looking forward to it.

This is an attempt- I have never had any plants indoor here in Cairo for the fear that ants will follow them into the flat... but i am going to try with this one and see how it goes. Fingers crossed!

Happiness is easy to find when the simple things like my lovely plants make me smile. Wishing you lots of simple pleasures in your life too.

Mirror and Mozzies and Military..

Look what woke me with a jump at 7am this morning!!!

The hook just decided it had been there too long... and dropped the mirror to the floor for no reason.  7am... and 7 years bad luck..... ? I really hope not. This year has been bad enough! We certainly have been living through interesting times!

I am....

-          Wishing there were more tourists in town. Work is VERY slow. Hard on me, my band and their families, as well as the people who work at the pharaohs and I guess their suppliers too. Two of my band members just had revolution babies this month (a baby boom after all the ‘downtime’ caused by the revolution 9 months ago?!!). Times is hard.

-          Wishing my back didn’t hurt so badly still. A month of pain- It’s really getting to me. I have an appointment with a physiotherapist tomorrow.... I am hoping she can succeed where the massage hasn’t. I am not dancing enough, and due to this pain, I can’t even get to the gym to keep myself in shape- it’s driving me nuts! The other Hotel Bellylorna residents (Ellie and Laura) keep trying to get me to dance; they can see how it is getting me down being so stationary!

3^rd wish (have decided that instead of 7 years bad luck, the broken mirror has released a genie who’ll grant these wishes!);

-          Wish there were fewer mosquitos around. They are driving us all crazy. Every evening you find me tracking them through the flat with a pillow to throw at them when they land on the ceiling! When we sit to watch TV, our eyes are scanning the ceilings and walls every 2 minutes! One will point; the other will grab the pillow. Our sport each evening! Where are they all coming from? We kill them all every evening, and there are still enough to bite us during the night! I have never known them so bad in all the time I have lived in this flat. I presume they have stopped spraying the streets around this area. I really hope they start again soon.  It’s beginning to resemble the set of Dexter with the blood splatters on the walls after each successful pillow fight!

I guess with the upheaval the country has been facing these past 11 months, a few extra mosquitoes are the least of most people’s problems. However, when you are at home more because of less work it does make a difference!

(Everyone due to come to stay with me in Hotel Bellylorna in the next few months- bring mozzie spray with you!!!  )

Oh, and the protesters in Tahrir have started to let the traffic flow there again. This was good, since I had to go to do my aids test today to renew my work papers for next year. All foreign workers, whatever their field, have to be tested. The hospital you go to do that is one of the streets off Tahrir square that saw a lot of the fighting. It looks still like a war zone. There are rolls and rolls of barbed wire, and soldiers and tanks. I have to say- that I was hugely relieved walking past that I got not one single comment. How rare and how refreshing! I guess there has been enough excitement to spend the testosterone on as of late! Everything was quiet. Long may that last! (It shows how bad things have got this past year, when its news that a group of men *don’t* make comments when a girl passes by!!!!)

Here’s to 7 good years... or at least those 3 wishes being granted for now!!!

The underdogs fight back, whilst others bite the hand that feeds them

I feel sick to my stomach.

It’s been a horrible week, following the news hour by hour in Tahrir. People being shot, gassed and run over by armoured trucks. The violence is sickening. Whether you agree with the reasons for the initial protest or not... you can't help but support the people who now are there demanding to be treated as human beings with a voice, rather than animals to be experimented on.

So my heart goes out to the Egyptian people who want to reclaim their dignity. Good on you.

This is why what I just had to do hurts me even more.

I just had to sack my new cleaner. She needs the money; she has a large family to provide for. I pay her well, and have her come twice a week, not because I really need that, but because its one way I can help the Egyptian economy, to help feed a few malnourished children.

Unfortunately some people have never been in relationships where if you are good to people they will be good to you. The regime they have been born into teaches them that honesty doesn't pay.

People in positions of status and authority often treat people who work for them as low lives, stripping them of any dignity, giving them no respect for what they do. Then of course the person treated in that way feels they are within their rights to treat anyone 'lower' than themselves in an even worse way and fight back in any way they can at the people who crush them. The victim becomes the abuser. I see it every day. The way the bowab shouts at his son, the electrician slapping his boy helper on the back of the head, the musicians talking down to the technicians, the managers yelling at the waiters. I can totally understand why the 'underdog' wants to fight back. In fact, in some ways that is exactly what is going on in Tahrir right now.... the people after being pushed down for so many years are refusing to stay down.

Then you have the issue that I had today, where because I have been nice to her, my cleaner thinks I am stupid, and does her utmost to take advantage. I try to do as I was always taught, treat others and you would want them to treat you, however, I am a foreigner, and a dancer, so for sure I can afford to 'lose' a few things. At least I presume that’s what went through her head.

This woman had, from the 1st time she came here, been squirreling away 'things' into a plastic bag under the sink... for removal out the house at some appropriate time. The omelette pan went missing last time, and this morning I discovered a bag with cleaning products, a door lock, a purse with spare change in it, taken from a wardrobe, and 4 expensive items of makeup (from UK- so not easily replaced!) taken from inside Ellie's make up bag, among other things.

The woman who had recommend her to me had suggested, when I told her about the omelette pan, to 'test' her honesty by leaving a 5 le note somewhere behind a sofa or something too. I did this today... and right enough... it was 'disappeared' too. Whatever else has already been taken out of the house will be discovered over the coming days I am sure. It makes me feel sick that I paid a thief to rob me.

I am so sad. She doesn't realise that if she just did her job well and turned up when she said she would etc then I would end up giving her things which probably would have been of much more use and value to her than anything she has already, or could have, stolen. She had already had a 'gift' of lots of old clothes and various bits and pieces I no longer wanted, plus a galabeya from me... and she had only been working for me for 3 weeks.

Times are hard, I see that, but really- biting the hand that feeds you? This is low and stupid and very, very sad.

My last words to her, I never want to see you again, and God be with you. I doubt that she will appreciate how much I actually mean that. If she treats people who are good to her like that... she must really have a miserable existence. Really, God be with her, and her children. I can only guess at the morals they will grow up with.

Revolution 2?

Cairo is a mess, again. Well, Tahrir is, and it is completely localised to Tahrir and streets leading to it- so please don’t worry about me... all is quiet at Hotel Bellylorna (well, as quiet as it ever is with singers and dancers living together!)

Everyone I speak to has a completely different take on the last 2 days of unrest in Tahrir.

Some strongly believe that the young people in Tahrir who have been arrested and shot at deserved everything they got, saying they were told not to protest and they chose to put themselves in that place, therefore they want trouble.

Some believe that the protests themselves are mistimed and everyone should wait until the elections to see what happens. However, they are unhappy about the strong arm response by the police and their methods of clearing the square, and therefore although they might not have supported initial protests, now they strongly believe in supporting anyone who wants to put their voice across in a peaceful manner without fear of being shot at.

There are those who say the police have been guilty of horrific attacks on the protesters. Firing tear gas, rubber bullets and bird shot into people’s faces. I know of at least two who have lost eyes due to this. There are others who believe that the protesters went armed with rocks etc ready for a fight and with intent to create chaos and burn police vehicles.

I quite honestly don’t know.

My sources of information are local TV and news, which does seem biased in supporting the police. Then there is twitter and face book, which is 100% in favour of what the activists are doing and very anti the military. Then there are various other independent news channels and online papers which seem to be on the side of the protesters.

I can understand if the nation is frightened of being ruled by the army. There have been too many military trials of civilians this year, and I can see that will only continue if the army stay in power.

I can also see why many people are frightened of the Islamist parties winning the votes. They certainly know how to campaign, dishing out gifts and educating supported in how to vote etc. However, they could potentially threaten the way of live for many of us involved in music, dance and tourism. I don’t have any evidence of this , but am sure that one of the first things they would limited is venues serving alcohol, for example, which would seriously affect tourism and entertainment in Cairo. I know many Egyptian Copts who are very scared how their life might change for the worst if a fundamentalist type government get into power.

Who knows what will happen in the future for Egypt? One friend said to me today, what happens the parties who are actually set up by the army actually win the votes to maintain power? If that happens then people will accuse the elections of being rigged, no? But it could happen. I have spoken to a few people who miss Mubarak and wish he was still in power. Someone else just now said of course there won’t be peace, not yet. The army need to stay in control until Mubarak dies at least... otherwise all the heads of the army will share the blame with the big man. If he dies, then all the blame for the last 30 years can be placed on him and the country can move on. Who knows? As I say, everyone I speak to has a different take on it all.

God be with those fighting for what they truly believe is right.

No-body knows what will happen next. Those speaking against the protesters said the same things back in January, and then when they ‘won’ the revolution they supported and backed them. It seems very deja vu to me.

I understand people who just want people in Tahrir to go home, they want peace. Peace might be easier, businesses can run more smoothly on a day to day basis, but peace doesn’t ever bring change. And Egypt needs to move forward in so many ways. Change really is needed!

Are we in revolution 2? NO... personally I think we are still in the first one... except that in round one people gave up too easily. The activists in January had many demands... but the main one that everyone knew was they wanted Mubarak out. However, He was only the figurehead for the regime and what they really wanted, but couldn’t push for once Mubarak left, was to rid the country of the regime that was running it.

We can only hope that in the political unrest which is sure to follow the next few months that what is best for the long term good for Egypt is what happens, and that those who have suffered greatly, and those who have died, since January 25th won’t have done that in vain.

Libyan Joy v's Lumber Pain.

I am fed up having a never ending cold- and just in case that wasn't hard enough to perform with, I managed to pull something in my lower back too.

I have been resting all week, hoping it would get better by itself, and yesterday I accepted defeat and started phoning round to find a good physiotherapist.I managed to get an appointment for Saturday, so my plan for Friday was lots of socialising... but no dancing. By the time I finished lunch with friends I was dizzy from the pain, despite (or maybe because of!) all the ibuprofen so took myself home to bed.

I had called the Pharaohs at 1pm and been told the Nile boat wasn’t sailing, so I knew I could have an evening to myself... but at 5.15pm I got a call from a manager there saying I had to be therefore 7.30, that it was sailing after all. I won’t type here what I said to myself as I hung up from that call!

2 hours notice... ok, if it’s just for me ok, but I have to get together my 6 piece band in that time, and not all of them live close to the boat. Eventually, at 6pm I had confirmation that my band would be there.... a stressful 45mins? Yes- you could say that! Added to the stress I already had wondering how to dance with a back that made me dizzy just sitting!

I arrived to the Pharaoh in record time; thank god the roads are so clear on a Friday. Today they were even more so since so many thousands of people were in Tahrir square today protesting against military court trails for civilians and to get a fixed date when the army would hand over power to the voted in government. Many believe that the army are turning the revolution into a coup. The Islamist groups were protesting today because some of the guidelines mean that even if they are voted in, then they will not have full powers to rule.

Anyway... I arrived at the Pharaohs at the same time as the National Libyan football team. Lots of very excited young men in tracks suits with far more energy than required for a Nile cruise.

I have to say that I survived tonight due to them. The energy was immense. They were all loving the show, but at the same time were very respectful to me. I heard none of the usual rude comments that I might overhear from a group of Egyptians of about the same age. I tried to get some up to dance but they wouldn’t dance. I think perhaps they had been warned not to do anything that might bring down the image of their country. That wasnt a worry for Zidane dancing with me a couple of weeks ago when the management for the Zamalek club brought him to my boat.. He was shaking his stuff with the rest of them! Mind you, that particular night there was also a large group of bellydancers in from UK, and they overshadowed him somewhat! To be honest, I didn't even know who he was, until i saw him a couple of days later on the addidas advert on TV here!

Tonight, after my show finished I went back at the end to watch the singer, and she sang waka waka. Wow, what a great music choice. These Libyan boys just went totally mental. Everyone was up dancing and loving it. Guests from other tables jumped up and joined in too. It was a fun night and the team were lining up to have their photograph taken with me before they headed off in their bus.

The adrenaline of it all kept the pain away until I sat in my taxi to head home. It was an unexpected night... but a good one. Let’s hope I wake up still able to move in the morning!!!

Helwa Awee....

Egypt has among the highest obesity and diabetes rates in the Middle East, and indeed in the world (14^th and 4^th respectively). (http://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/13/world/middleeast/13iht-M13CDIABET.html)

This problem, it seems to me, is that, besides most people sheer disbelief that physical exercise is valuable to their health and well being (there is huge popular support still for diet pills and instant ‘cures’  rather than diet and exercise) ... they make such yummy things from sugar.

Sweet pastries, milk and fruit dishes, not to mention the honey and nuts. Oh, I’m drooling at the thought; Fateer filled with honey, nuts, cream, icing sugar.... or with banana and chocolate... filo pastry with cream, and honey, covered with sugar....

Sorry... drifted off into sweet dreams there.....

I decided I would try to make one of the many Egyptian deserts, Lo’met Al-Ady.

No, I am not getting adventurous in my cooking skills... that would never do... rather I spotted this box of pre-mixed mix in my local sunshine supermarket... and when I saw the 5 min's logo on it, decided – why not?

First thing to note... you mix up the ingredients and leave the yeast to rise for an hour. (Somehow this doesn’t affect the 5min’s promise on the box?). I think it’s pretty much the same as do-nut dough for those who can’t find a ‘ready to make’ pack at their local corner shop.

Then you drop teaspoons of batter into hot oil. At first I didn’t make the portion sizes small enough, and I think the oil was too hot (if it can be ??) so the majority of my results were misshapen, stuck together and treacle coloured....

Mine looked like this....

I can, however, vouch that they still tasted fabulous!

Then you douse said balls in syrup or honey or coat with sugar. Anything which might shoot your blood sugar levels through the roof in fact.


It ‘might’ be discovered that if you soak them in a liqueur of your choice (such as Cointreau, for example) before coating them in honey, that you get a very strong 'kick' when you eat them...... I would imagine anyway! This is not part of the original Egyptian recipe, I hasten to add, especially since this is a dish usually found at Ramadan!

In fact, here's a nice blog article about ramadan sweets; http://uniquemuslimah.wordpress.com/2007/09/27/egyptian-sweet-tooth/

and I also found this video of how to make it, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PR0yL44F04c

Then ....after you have enjoyed your honey balls.....

..... you dance.

Of course.

You will have to do something to work off all that sugar and protect both your figure and health!!!!

Emotions in motion. An Egyptian wedding.

I had an amazing time on Friday. I was performing at a friend’s wedding at the stunning Mena House Hotel, quite possible the most beautiful location in Cairo.

It’s always more nerve wracking dancing for friends... and lots more fun of course too, but the pressure feels greater since I want to do a really good job. Especially on this occasion since I had set myself the task of learning to dance with a shamadan (a chandelier you wear on top of your head) for the zaffa.

I spent ages trying the one I had... but eventually, 2 weeks ago, I accepted that it was just the wrong fit completely for me (turns out I have a very small head!) and it would never work. So I set off to Mahmoud’s in the Khan to buy myself a new shamadan. I found a lovely sparkly gold one with coins hanging from it that fits.

Then came the task of practising with it. Two weeks... I felt I could do this. I thought I would start simply... balancing the shamadan on my head as I sat at the computer. Wow. What a difference to my posture, instantly!!! Day 2 with it I was doing the housework, hanging up washing etc, all was going well until... I tried to lift a suitcase onto the top of a wardrobe. Ok, now it sounds like a very stupid thing to do with a chandelier on the top of one’s head... but at the time I felt I was doing so well with it up there that I was trying to ‘be normal’ with it. It wobbled; I jerked my neck so it wouldn’t fall off. Bad idea. I managed to pinch a nerve in my neck which lead to dizzy and nausea bouts for the next two days. Each day I would wake up, test my neck... could I get the shamadan back on... no still too sore... this continued for two weeks. Each day I got more and more stressed since I really wanted to dance shamadan for them... but everyday it became less and less likely that I was going to be able to.

The last few days before the wedding I had to admit defeat. My neck had beaten me. No shamadan for me on this occasion. I tried. And I will try again... It’s not my favourite prop by a long way, but Egyptians do really appreciate it when you do it at a wedding... so it’s on my ‘to do list’ ! As is finding a good physio in Cairo to help my neck build some strength to cope with it!!!

Anyway... the wedding was a hit, even without shamadan. When I met the family just as we were about to start the zaffa, the bride’s parents said hello to me, then as I unwrapped my veil and they saw I was in costume, they said, ‘ah, you’re Lorna!’ and hugged me full of smiles, well the mother did... and the father said he’d like to hug me to but would refrain!! I can't explain how soothing for the soul of a dancer it is for an Egyptian family to accept you, welcome you in fact, because of your profession! Instead of a zaffa band they had chosen to enter with their favourite zaffa songs on cd, which was quieter and less energetic than the normal zaffa’s- but the bride’s glowing face singing along with all the lyrics of the songs made up for that. Such a joy to see someone so lost in love... with the music and with her husband!

Everyone was lovely, it was an incredibly supportive audience, and not just the ones who were friends (!) ... my band did really well and I had the folkloric ‘boys’ in the show with their saaidi sticks too. They tried to persuade me to dance with a skinny little silver stick.... and seemed dubious when I refused, but when they saw the stick I use (which is much more like the one usually used by men) they were most impressed by it. I hadn’t worked before with these two men, but they wowed me by how well they followed me. I can be unpredictable at times, as anyone who has followed me in a class situation knows, but they did a great job. It looked almost choreographed! Then afterwards speaking to them, turns out one of them is already a facebook friend and teaches at some of the dance festivals in Cairo, Ahmed Helmy.

The dance floor was squares laid out on an uneven lawn, so as soon as anyone danced on it, the floor started to break up. By the time I performed it was like dancing on ground that is being split by an earthquake. I never dance in shoes, but I had no choice... this floor would have ripped my feet to shreds otherwise. I was glad too that I chose to wear flat shoes, since heels would have got stuck between the squares. The other obstacle of the night was the lighting. Moving spotlights that came from waist height from behind where my band were set up, which meant that I couldn’t see the band at all, let along make eye contact with any of them, which made the tabla solo more pot luck than usual. It also meant that I was very aware that the audience could see me, but often only in silhouette so I was trying to think of ways to make sure people could see all the moves, especially the small pops and locks and shimmies. Let’s just say, my brain was working as hard as my body was.... but I was in my element; Dancing under the pyramids, for friends, with a fabulous band, with backing dancers.....

So despite the setbacks (lighting, dance floor and lack of shamadan) it was a fabulous event that I feel honoured to have been a part of. Thanks to R and T (the bride and groom) for making me a part of your special day. I hope you both enjoyed it as much as I did!

After my show finished, everyone got up to party and later, when I had changed back into ‘normal’ clothes I did too. It’s a whole different thing, performing a show and then dancing with people who perhaps don’t know how to do more than one or two bellydance moves, but who ooze with joy and feeling when they dance.

When someone says that foreigners can’t dance like Egyptians... THAT is what they are talking about, not the technique (the foreigners are usually better at that than the Egyptians!) and not even understanding of the words, it’s that powerful combination of joy, love, flirting, challenging fun with fantastic attitude and timing that seemed to be about you, the dancer, being another instrument in the music, adding to it rather than just following it.

I am always flattered when someone says I dance like an Egyptian, that I ‘feel it’, and many told me this at the wedding. But when I get a chance to party with Egyptians... and I am not talking about the professional dancers here, just your average Egyptian man or woman, then I really start learning how to dance, how to be free.

This dance is much more about your emotions than your motion!

Bellydance TV

Tonights plans didn't quite work out as hoped for. We attempted to go to a cabaret downtown, but they were all shut because it is a dry night in Cairo, ie no alcohol can be served anywhere. They do this at many of the religious festivals, and the 'big' Eid is this weekend.

Since we couldn''t go into the cabaret we sat outside in a 'ahwa' (coffeshop) and had a cup of tea and a sheesha.

The TV was on the whole time with a fabulous TV channel I didn't know existed playing. It's called 'Al Tet' which means 'the best' in Egyptian slang and they play non-stop bellydance videos. Since it is pronounced al tit- you can imagine all the jokes we have been making tonight!!!

Most of the footage has been filmed abroad, in Russia and USA by the looks of it, but also some clips from the ahlan we sahlan dance festival in Cairo. It really does look like someone sits on youtube downloading any footage which is of good enough quality and sticks it straight onto the TV channel. I can only imagine how these dancers would feel knowing Egyptians were sitting at home watching them dance on the TV! There is some very high quality dancing to be found.

They just finished showing Sonya's drum solo from the Bellydance superstars show and now its Shahla from London! This is better than youtube! no more sitting waiting until clips download fully.

I have now programmed it onto my TV as channel no.1. For a girl who never switches her TV on at all normally... I suspect i am going to be rather glued to it from now on!

The Thursday night dilemma

How awful is my life when my biggest problem on a Thursday night is how to attend both of the best parties of the year, when they are both on at the same time, different locations and have horrible pre Eid traffic seperating them?!

Sara Farouk currently has a group of dancers over from the UK here on holiday, and last night she organised a party for them in her house. She had a band there to play for us all and they were phenomenal musicians. The band included some members who had played for me in Luxor last year when I performed at the farha festival. The singer was Randa Kamels singer... who, as well as being a lovely person, has one of the most fantastic voices, in Cairo, in my opinion! A night of chatting, dancing, eating kushery and rice pudding, and wallowing in the luxury of having such a band play just for our pleasure. I know I love dancing for my living, but there is a different joy altogether to be able to 'just'' dance too. That same joy was stamped on every face in the room.

It was physically painful to have to leave Sara's while the music was still playing in order jump in a cab to the next party, across town.

Ahmed Harfoush is the top Jazz singer in Cairo, and he had a party last night in his stylish apartment, to welcome a friend over from the UK. Everyone there was lovely, interesting, talented and entertaining. I really enjoyed the many conversations I had and wished I could have been there earlier (but of course without missing out on any of Sara's night either!) I was pressed to dance for everyone , and Ellie sang too. She was a star, her voice sounds more impressive every time I hear her. People said lots of complimentary things about my dancing too, which is always nice to hear. There was even some crispy bacon to be had!

When we came home Ellie and I sat and chatted with Laura, current guest in Hotel BellyLorna, til the wee small hours of the morning...

.... and now I am off to dance on the Nile for a coach load of tourists for whom I will become one of Egypt's touristic attractions!

I love my life!

Is it safe to attend the Nile Group Festival in Cairo this November?

I just recieved an email from a dancer in Europe asking me whether Cairo was safe just now?

 She was trying to decide whether to attend the up coming Nile Group festival (http://www.nilegroup.net/home.htm ) in November and said that the organisers said it was safe, but "they wouldn't, wouldn't they", she said. She asked me for my independant opinion.

I dont' know how independent my opinion can actually be. I live here. I work here. My work depends on tourism to a huge extent. I am biased to that extent. But i will try to explain how things are here just now....

There were recent problems when the copts (christians) demonstrated about the unfair laws concerning the building of new churches in Egypt. Tempers were sparked by a horrible recent attack on a church in Aswan where people died. The army dealt with the demonstration in a very heavy handed way which was very upsetting for us all, and in which people who were demonstrating died. Thats a very brief summary of the events, by no means meant to belittle what happened. This was 2 weeks ago now.

Since those events... Cairo has continued to have some demonstrations.... although they are usually small and very localised,  nothing compared to what we see from wall street and other world financial centres at the moment!

There has been no more violence or rioting since then. Yes there are elections coming up, and once the campaigning starts perhaps there will be a different atmosphere, who knows? Put it this way, i wouldn't recommend you stay in a hotel next to Tahrir...

There are still less police on the streets than would be ideal for a city of this size... so opportunist petty crimes are still occuring. In the streets you have to be careful of your bag (and of your backside!) However, within the last month, I had a dancer from Italy staying with me and hotel Bellylorna, and at the end of her month trip here, when asked what she thought of Cairo. She had loved her time here. A lot of which she spent on her own often wandering around areas just soaking in the atmosphere. She said she liked that she felt very safe to do so. In fact, she said she was much more concerned for her person and belongings while walking around Rome than she was in Cairo.

I avoid Tahrir on Fridays. I have done since January. I promised my family back home in Scotland that I would keep myself safe and that's how to manage that. If there are protests, whether these stay peaceful or escalate, they are almost all centered in Tahrir and you can be a 15 minute walk from Tahrir and not be aware of them.

I have changed my behaviour since January, in that I wouldn't walk in the streets alone at night anymore, and I wouldn't carry large sums of cash around with me. I also try to put distance between me and any men or boys in the street... just in case a hand reaches out. But, this is the worst of it, in my experience as a foreigner living here, and happens in many large cities all over the world.

I still work on the Pharoah boat on the Nile, and most dancers are still also performing. I still go out to cafes, bars, clubs. I still get taxi's everywhere. I still live a 'normal' life here. The only 'stressful' thing is the imagining how the elections might go and how Egypt will change in the upcoming years. Which isn't something which really would affect most dance tourists coming for a week or two to Cairo.

Is it safe to come to Cairo- I would say YES.
Can i guarentee that? No, of course not.
Would I 'risk' it to attend a dance festival - absolutely YES!

In fact i would go as far as to say, if you always dreamed of going to a festival in cairo but haven't yet, now is the PERFECT TIME to come. Some people are scared to come, so there are a lot less students in every class which means you get to see the teacher more! In fact, even if you came before and were put off due to high number in each class, i would encourage you to try again now. You get a lot more for your money!

I look forward to' welcoming you 'in' Egypt' soon!!!

My multiple 'jobs' in Cairo...

Yes, i am a professional Bellydancer in Cairo... But that's not all I do.....

This week Ellie of London (my flatmate) has been busy with a lot of singing gigs, so i have been following her around being her ‘assistant’. She is always so supportive of me in my work and often comes to the pharaoh to be my labisa (dresser) so it’s nice to be able to return the favour ...helping each other and a fun night out too!

At her work, I advise in the sound check (and continue to do this throughout the evening), liaise with the management and the staff and sound engineer. I translate where necessary too. Of course, I also keep her supplied with drinks through the night and I take seriously the ‘crowd whipper upper’ element of the job, applauding loudly, getting people on the dance floor and generally agreeing with everyone how wonderful she is (especially if management are within earshot!) I take song requests from the audience for her, also take photos and video for use for promotional stuff and generally be a PA so that she can do her job of singing and entertaining the audience without those worries.

At first it was weird for Ellie to think of me as her PA. She has always known me as a dancer in Cairo, and often helped me in various aspects of my work, so it felt weird for her to introduce me to anyone was her ‘assistant’.In UK a singer wouldn’t need anyone with her. In Egypt it would be unwise for a woman to go alone anywhere, and since artists (not only dancers) are often seen as having dubious morals then people often tend to think they can take advantage when they see a woman alone. In fact, not a single person at any event has ever questioned ‘why’ she might need me there, which again shows how normal it is here. At last night’s venue the staff just took to calling me ‘the beautiful assistant’. It’s a fun job for me when I am not dancing.

I also think it is useful as a performer to do the assistant job from time to time. As a solo artist it is easy to feel lonely. You are on stage alone thinking no one else can fully understand what you are doing or how it feels up there. From helping Ellie, I know that I am imaging how she feels, what she might need and therefore putting myself a hundred times a night in her shoes. I realise that my assistants have always done that too (the good ones anyway!!) thinking what i might need before i get up on stage and as soon as I come back to the changing room. I feel less like it’s a one woman show, and much more like it’s a team effort now. (and that’s without the dynamics of working with a live band!)

Performing is my passion, and 'artist' is the job title printed on my work visa.

I love teaching too, whether it’s workshops , or private classes.

Managing ‘Hotel Bellylorna’ is always entertaining playing ‘mummy’to all the dancers from all round the world that end up coming to stay with me in Cairo. Often it involves a fair amount of tour guiding and cultural advising!

Tonight a friend said to Ellie, “but, what I’d really like to do with my life is what Lorna does”. Ellie was rather surprised as this man did not strike her as belly dancer material as such. He laughed and said, “oh no, I wasn’t thinking about that... I mean her writing, the blog, you know. I’d like to be a writer too”. I felt honoured that someone saw me in that light before even the dance. That’s a first for me. Even i see myself as dancer first and everything else after. I guess i am a writer too, which was actually my dream job if anyone ever asked me when I was a little girl what i wanted to be when i grew up. I always answered a writer, or one of ‘Pans People’ (a dance troupe who performed on the TV show ‘Top of the Pops’ !!!

Here I am living more than one of my dreams. Dancer, Teacher, Manager/Tour Guide/'Mum', PA to a star and Writer!

My many jobs here in Cairo keep me busy, keep a roof over my head, keep me sane and connect me with some fabulous people. I love all of my jobs! Life is good.