Damn JD for being right!

In this context, JD stands for Jim Davidson, who, when i met him, was hosting the BBC TV series ‘The Generation Game’. I was called in a couple of years running to be their ‘expert’ in Belly dance and performed (with my 2 lovely friends Hannah and Elspeth) and then judged the contestants with marks out of 10 for how well they did. It was a fun experience both times and the first time I had ever had a professional make up artist work her magic, which was an eye opener too. ( Yes it was back in the days when i was blond too!!!) 

Why was he right? Because Jim’s words of wisdom for me were, “Lorna, you’re never going to be famous or make money from belly dance, you know that don’t you?”. I replied that others had, but actually that wasn’t my goal anyway. I loved dance and it made me happy and no employer can pay you in happiness the way dance does for me. If most of my waking hours of my life are going to be spent at work, why have a job that makes me miserable? All I want is enough. Thankfully this is exactly what i have actually always been given, enough. And it is , enough.

 Jim’s reaction, when he was trying to get his head around the idea that it wasn’t all about the money, was that I “wouldn’t make money because I loved what i did too much”. When i asked him to explain he told me that when you don’t like doing something, people have to pay you a lot to make it worth your while, or you don’t do it. If you love it, often you end up doing it for free, or for less than it’s worth, even if you didn’t mean to.

Last night saw a perfect example of JD’s prediction come true.

Ellie of London, the newest singer in Cairo, had a gig on a private yacht last night. I went along as her chaperone, bodyguard, assistant, whatever you want to call it- actually i just went along because i was nosey and wanted a night on a yacht – is that so bad? No seriously, it is never wise for a woman, singer or dancer, to go alone to a gig unaccompanied and although the people turned out to be very decent and lovely, if Ellie had been out on the Nile on a yacht with people who were not that, it would be a potentially very difficult and dangerous situation for her. Anyway, it was the yacht owner’s party, to show off his new yacht to his friends and have a bit of a party, and they were lovely.

Ellie sounded amazing and sang songs from almost every genre you can think of. Some people danced , others they didn’t. When i saw women bopping in their seats but embarrassed to get up to dance i went over and got them onto the dance floor. Not because it was my job, or anyone asked or expected me to, but because I wanted the night to go well and everyone to have fun. That’s just what i do, play hostess even when it’s not my party! Maybe that is a line of business i should go into- party whipper upper...  with a more suitable job title of course.  Anyway, I was dancing with a group of about 5 Egyptian women to the shoop shoop song, or something of that ilk, when I heard one saying to the others, in arabic, “we should ask for baladi, I want to dance baladi”. I thought nothing more of it at the time, except that i understood and felt the same.

Later in the evening the yacht owner comes over and asks if he puts on baladi music would i do a show for them. I said “absolutely not, I am not working, you know I am not working tonight”.  He tried to persuade me, i wouldn’t be moved. Eventually i did agree that if baladi music came on, and others were dancing, i would of course dance with them, as I had been dancing with everyone all night, no different... but no show.

Can you guess what happened yet...?

So, he asks me to ask Ellie to put on some Egyptian music. I did, then I ran to the bar to hide. Around me the women start dancing, but again, just in their seats... I pull them up (doh! THATS when i made my ‘mistake’) so we dance together. I tone down my dancing too so i don’t scare them off but slowly one by one, they slink off the dance floor. The owner, then the owners son, come to dance with me too, but they too drift off.

I find I’m on my own on the dance floor. I SHOULD, if i had taken JD’s advice all those years ago, gone to sit down immediately. Business wise, that would have been the ‘smart’ plan. Don’t perform for free, especially in front of people who might employ you at a later event.

Could I sit? No I couldn’t.

Why? Because i felt tricked or pressurised into performing? No, that wasn’t it.

 It was because, quite frankly, i was loving dancing. I was blissfully happily lost in the music. I didn’t even ‘perform’, I just danced- for me. I loved it.

They applauded, they loved it too.

Ellie, bless her, was annoyed on my behalf, feeling I had essentially been pushed into having to work for free. The main thing that had annoyed her was that when she was booked for the gig she had recommended me to them in case they also wanted to hire a dancer. They had looked at her in disgust at the suggestion, saying oh no, we are not that sort of people. Their reaction to what she and i consider an art form,  I think it was perhaps her first encounter of the hypocrisy which surrounds belly dance in this country and the misperceptions people have of dancers. The country where they place their 3 year old on the table to dance for everyone, but would disown her or worse if at 30 she chose to do the same! Egyptians love the music and dance, they feel it is part of them, but at the same time most look down on anyone who might choose to dance for a living, then of course they ‘force’ me to dance for free. I totally understand her point and very much appreciate her concern for me, but I don’t feel bad about it. Maybe the people who talked to me, interested to find out more about this British expat in Cairo, will then, seeing me dance, alter even slightly their impressions of what a belly dancer is. Yes, I might have blown my chance to charge for a performance on the same boat on another occasion. But maybe not. Perhaps, someone will remember the Scottish belly dancer they saw at a private yacht party on the Nile and decide to hire me for a wedding or party. It’s not overly likely I agree, but do I care? No, I don’t.

I love dancing.

Passionately.

There are times when the dance has to be just that, just for dance. If it is always work i would lose the joy it gives me. If that happens, I may start making money, but I’d be better off sat behind a desk, working  9-5 with a pension plan and paid holidays. I don’t need to make money, I don’t need to be rich, or famous. Those things don’t make a person happy.

 I just hope that dance continues to do what it has always done for me... fills my soul, makes me happy and provides me with  ‘just enough money’ to continue dancing my life away!

So no JD, sorry, but you are wrong. You can’t see the results in material things. I don’t own houses or yachts or wear designer clothes (except for designer costumes that is!). i don’t drive sports cars or wear diamonds.

 However, love of dance actually makes me one of the richest people I know.

And it’s enough.

Nb- just for the record, I feel I should add here that I do NOT condone dancers undercutting others or dancing in restaurant for their meals or for tips or any of these horrible stories you hear of. That is a very different scenario than what I am discussing above. If you are working- treat your art, and other dancers, with respect and charge a fair rate for your work. Otherwise you undervalue us all along with yourself!

Tonights violence in Cairo... return of the curfew

Tonight i was at a friends house, playing trivial pursuits. It was a lovely evening, until his mum called to warn us that there were troubles downtown and that a curfew had been put into place from 2-7am.

We left immediately and I got home to read all the news and see the heart breaking video footage of army trucks driving straight at protestors.

Seemingly there was a demonstration, by copts and supporting muslims against the burning of a church in Aswan last week. Armed thugs came and attacked them, and then in the fighting that ensued the army became involved and were shooting live ammo into the crowds and then driving at the people in tanks. The worst 'crowd management' you could imagine. Many are dead, even more are injured. It's horrific and sad and pointless.

Chaos in Cairo ( although at the moment its only in downtown area of Cairo.... We didn't see any problems at all on our way home to mohandiseen) .

This is not a fight about religion. Its a fight for human rights.

WHATEVER the argument- driving over civilians in armoured tanks cannot ever be acceptable?!!!

God/Allah- whatever you want to call him, be with the families of those injured and killed tonight............. I feel sick to my stomach thinking about it all and hope to God that there is peace by morning. The people of cairo have already had such a difficult year, and although i have always said I suspected it will get worse before it gets better, i really did not imagine the army would go to these extreme lengths to bring the people down. Either some peace treaty of sorts will have to be worked out tomorrow between the army and the christian protestors, or i suspect there will be more violence to come. I really hope its the former...

An Egyptian Journlist friend is just writing to me now and asking me to write that he believes the army want to please the Islamists. But wants you to know that only 5million out of 85 million Egyptians are Islamists. They gather support from the masses partly because they have always had it played that is is 'us or them'... ie if you are not with us you are against us. But now, due to recent behaviour, for example the burning of the church last week, less people are sympathing with the Islamists and more are wanting equality for all. Although it's not been polled, he believes the majority of Egyptians are against this sectarianism. Certainly everyone i know in Cairo is.

For friends and family reading this- Cairo is a big city- and i live very far from the troubles tonight which are very localised in the downtown area. I am home and safe and will stay that way- don't worry. Egypt is my home and i love it here. It's just going through a painful growing spurt right now, I hope she grows up soon.....

Advice for female travellers to Cairo, Part2 - How smart women behave in Cairo.....

Do you have to behave differently depending on where you are?  No of course you don’t HAVE to... but you do already, even if you don’t realise it. Most women already act differently depending on who they are with at the time, their parents, their partners, their children, their bosses, strangers.  We do this for various reasons, conscious or unconscious.

 My blog entry here is my suggestions on how to adapt your behaviour in Cairo, based on my experiences, and those of my female friends, and are based on the assumption you want to reduce the amount of unwanted attention you receive especially in the streets.

 If, of course, you enjoy and want more attention (heaven forbid) then you can do the opposite of these things and God be with you!

-          Dress appropriately- see my previous blog entry; http://bellylorna.blogspot.com/2011/10/advice-for-female-travellers-to-cairo.html

-          Eye contact can be seen as an invitation. When walking in the street try not to look at people. Looking at the ground helps. Very dark or mirrored sunglasses also help so people can’t see you looking at them!

-          Touch is another no-no. Try to avoid touching men! I mean even from hand shaking or a touch on the shoulder or arm when talking. In many countries it is very normal to accentuate a point using a slight touch to the hand or whatever- but not in Egypt! Touching women is normal and good, if you are a woman, although not usually with strangers!


-          Kissing is illegal in public! Even if you are married. Just don’t do it. When meeting people, and saying goodbye, many countries  kiss on the cheek as a normal greeting. This is also normal in Cairo, but only men-men and women-women. Never between a man and a woman. Many ‘westernised’ Egyptian man will attempt this greeting form, but it is wise, especially in public to adopt a strong hand hold so they can’t. Even if it is just a friend. Most people will understand this response from you and not take offence.


-          On  ‘taking offence’ , do not feel you have to be polite. Never get yourself in a situation where you are uncomfortable just because you don’t want to say no. I have found I have had to almost be what i would consider rude in order to get my point across without misunderstandings and silliness. So if a shopkeeper takes your hand to shake it, and holds onto it, even if he is smiling and talking perfect English to you, remember he would NEVER do this to an Egyptian girl, he wouldn’t have even shaken her hand in the first place. You have every right to pull your hand away and talk sternly to him. Be strong. You will be respected for it.

-          Dancing in the street, in a Cafe, restaurant  etc is NOT a good idea. Egyptian women would NOT do this! (unless its somewhere like Bian cafe which actually operates salsa evenings!)

-          Laughing out loud can be seen as ‘easy’. Egyptians are drawn to ‘light-blooded’ people ie whose who laugh easily. Laughing will make you more desirable.

-          Smiling and giggling get the same reaction as laughing. Poker face is best in Cairo streets and when doing business.

-          When you walk limit how much bounce and sway you give your curves. A supportive bra is a must if you are blessed in that department!

-          When i walk i tend to swing my arm by my side... on more than one occasion i have by doing this managed to get my arm between a gropers hand and my rear end!

-          The other arm is holding onto the strap of my handbag. There has been an increase of bag snatching in Cairo since the revolution along with other petty crimes so just be on your guard. Although one recent guest from Rome commented on how much safer she felt in the streets of Cairo than at home!

-          Chatting in taxi’s is a tactic used by drivers to work out where you are from and therefore how much money you have and how they can best scam you out of it. Sometimes they just want to flirt. Don’t sit in the front of the taxi as a woman, especially if the driver asks you to and beware of roaming hands. If you are in this situation treat the driver as the child he is and get out the cab immediately. Also all taxi’s have a registration number- it’s hard to remember to do it but a good idea to take a note of the number if you can!

-          When you are in a car or taxi, don’t make eye contact with other drivers. By accident i have done this before and had to get the driver to drive a very long route to shake our follower off our tail!

-          As in most places – if you wander about, looking all around you as you go, then you will look like a tourist and be more likely to be approached. Walk wherever you are going in a determined manner. Actually- it’s wise to look at the pavement anyway since they are so uneven and you don’t want to trip!

-          Don’t walk in the street at night if you can help it. Two women together will attract double the attention! I have tried to walk the wrong way up a one way street before to avoid a curb crawler, but to no avail- he followed me up the road and then i was in a worse situation because there were less people about. ( I was shaken but ok, since he drove off when i threatened to scratch his lovely BMW with my keys- it’s a good idea to carry keys in your hand as self defence – just in case!)

-          If you are a Bellydancer- LIE when people ask you what you do! Unless they are in the same industry , you will always be considered ‘easy’ if you are a dancer! I always tell people that i ‘work in tourism’ when they ask.... well, it’s true too!

-          If you are being asked by a taxi driver, man in the street, in a shop wherever, it’s always best to say you are married , even if you aren’t.  Some single women travelling alone in Egypt even wear wedding bands to give them more confidence to do this. If you are travelling with a partner or boyfriend- LIE and say you are married. It just makes your life easier!

-          If you are lost, local shopkeepers know their area and are better to stop than policemen or passersby. The best place to ask is a chemist since they are on almost every street and to get your pharmacy degree you have to have good English!

-          Never feel pressurised to go anywhere or do anything you don’t want to do. Egyptians can be great salesmen and persuaders. Go with your gut instinct every time. Even if you feel you have to be ‘rude’ to get out of a situation. They will actually respect you more for this!

-          Try not to be alone with a man...... this need a lot more explanation so I am writing a separate blog entry about this one.... and will publish asap

Of course... all this is just advice. You do not have to follow it to the letter. You may feel safe in certain places, with certain people and there your behaviour will be more normal. Eventually, if you spend some time in Cairo, then you will learn where you can relax and where you can’t. Also if you master some of the language you are in a better position to understand the comments made at you in the street and know whether they are meant in a sleezy or friendly way.  Until you reach that point its wise just to make yourself stand out as little as possible!

I love living in Cairo. It’s my home now. There are many fabulous people here. The one things that all Foreign and Egyptian women alike ALL complain of is the hassle from men  on the streets, and nothing will ever stop it completely, unfortunately, but hopefully some of these behavioural suggestions will help reduce it somewhat, and help you enjoy your time in Cairo even more.

So, when walking in the streets of Cairo, enjoy, laugh, smile, dance, wonder at this crazy city- just keep it all inside- don’t let any of it show on your face or body language- get to work on that poker face!

Advice for female travellers to Cairo, Part1- What to wear in Cairo...

It always seems to be an issue... and to this day  i still have to double check every outfit before i leave the house to see how Cairo proof it is....

I googled ‘what to wear in Egypt’ and found this website which is very interesting.. http://www.journeywoman.com/ccc/ccc-e.html . but many of the comments i don’t really agree with in regards to clothing suggestions. Here are my thoughts on the subject;

Lorna’s Guide for women regarding daytime clothing in Cairo!

-         The most common question- do I need to cover my hair? NO. You don’t, unless you are going to visit mosques. In which case a scarf/ shawl kept in your bag will do the job when you get there... In fact a blonde friend of mine said that she got even more unwanted attention when she wore a hijab, since the men seemed to think that a foreign muslim woman was an even greater ‘catch’. On the hair note- I have heard from various people ideas of wisdom of going outside with wet hair. It means you are just out the shower, and obviously you had sex just before that shower so obviously you want it again, with any man on the street that asks. I am not sure i totally agree with that pattern of thinking.... but if you are not feeling comfortable in your own skin it might be best not to risk it! I do however find a big difference if I go out with my hair down or pinned back. If you have long hair, especially if it is blonde or red, then its a good idea to clip it back when on the street. The swishing attracts more attention and some may feel they have the right to touch it (usually women who do this!)

-          Trousers- an obvious good choice? Yes, if they are not transparent.... beware especially of white cotton/linen! Remember that many materials which look opaque in a shop mirror may well be transparent under strong sunlight. These same items may be totally fine for wearing at night in Cairo. Jeans i always thought were the worst choice because they are heavy in the heat, but actually- assuming they are not too tight.. they often are my favourite choice since you look less like a tourist, and also because they don’t show the sweat!

-          Shorts- No.... unless you are in a holiday resort eg sharm or somewhere- Not for Cairo. In fact I wouldn’t wear cut off jeans or skirts that are above knee height at all. (actually not a good choice for men either unless very long shorts!!!)

-          Skirts- long- fine- but check for the see-through test!!! Knee length- great- but if they are full skirts beware since Cairo can be windy! Oh and be careful getting in and out of taxi’s in even below the knee skirts! If it is a wrap around skirt- pin it! The wind and getting into taxi’s etc could have you showing a lot more flesh that you intended- and believe me- it will be noticed!

-          Whether it’s a skirt or trousers, or jeans.... make sure if they sit low on your hips that your top is long enough to cover them..... exposed belly/hip/ lower back will attract unwanted attention from male and female! No bare bellies in Cairo (even us dancers and still supposed to wear the body stocking on stage remember!)

-          Cleavage is a no- no. Check all your tops.... what might be ok and normal amount of cleavage in uk or wherever is probably not in Cairo. If you can see any line, any bump on your chest that could distinguish you from a man, then have it covered! I often wear vest tops under lower cut tops to make sure this is kept under wraps. A little cropped top can also be worn so you cover the cleavage but don’t add to many layers onto an already warm outside for Cairo temperatures.  Remember the bending down to speak to taxi drivers test too.................!!!

-          Dresses are usually fine, assuming they have sleeves, no cleavage and below knee... which is often not the case. However – don’t panic – you can wear your summer dresses if you are ok wearing leggings underneath if they are a little short (or at risk of blowing up!) or a little bolero top to give you arms if it’s a strappy one.

-          Leggings- If it’s a tight mini dress that you wear with leggings- try to ensure that it really does cover your bum and you are not having to pull it down all the time- otherwise you will look like you are intentionally drawing eyes (and potentially hands) to that area! Leggings are seen by the majority of Egyptian women and therefore men as an item of underwear. They are not a substitute for trousers. They show too much detail!

-          Most of these suggestions are for the main areas in Cairo that I am in daily, Mohandiseen, Zamalek, Maadi. These areas have a large proportion of foreigners and ‘westernised’ Egyptians. If you are going to be downtown (where the museam is) or in more ‘local’ (baladi) areas, including el Hussain (where the khan el Khalili bazaar is) then i recommend less flesh on show... ie full length trousers/jeans/skirt rather then to the knee and maybe a long sleeve too.

-          This comment is for your own health and comfort rather than what others might think. Wear as much natural fibres as possible. It does get hot and sweaty in Cairo. Nylon is hotter to wear than cotton! This is another reason i like jeans!

-          T-shirts.... totally fine.... most places in Cairo. Even tightly fitted- as long as they cover armpits (which are frowned upon... but i suspect that has more to do with a lack of use of deodorant in Egypt than with the flesh itself!!!) and are long enough to cover the top of your jeans or whatever. Stappy tops are a no-no in public too (in Cairo remember- these things are fine places like sharm.)

-          A big baggy blouse is fine... as long as it’s not see-through.... bra straps on show are like wearing your bra in public. Not a good idea. Also check that the buttons don’t gape in any blouse you wear.... otherwise you’ll have some strange conversations while people, i mean men, try to see through the gaps!!!




-          Baggy verses tight. You would think that things which show off your curves more would get you more attention... you are right- but its attention the way Egyptian women get attention too. So it depends – if you want to look less like a tourist the tighter clothes are better! I have a wardrobe full of clothes i rarely wear now that i bought to come to Cairo on previous trips before I moved here,  linen trousers and tunic style tops that scream ‘agnabi ‘ (foreigner!).   I get less hassle in the streets here in Jeans and a t-shirt than if i wear baggy skirt and top. I might look sexier, but i also look more like I belong! It’s a fine balancing act!

-          Colour. Certain colours will draw the eye more. Red is used in advertising for that very reason. A tight black t- shirt will attract a lot less attention than a red one! Remember if you go for white that it should be thick enough cotton to mask the bra strap!!!!

-          A solution to see through skirts /trousers- a top or scarf tied round your hips....? NO!!!! This makes your hips and the hip movement more obvious and you will attract MORE comments. (that is why we tie something there when we bellydance!!!)

-          Skin on show..... a little is ok, ie arms is ok, lower legs is ok, upper chest is ok... but if you have all three on show... you’ll be commented on!

-          Shoes. High heels when you go out at night can be a liability. The streets are very uneven- so if you have any amount of walking to do, then wear a pair of ‘ship ship’ (flip flops)  to get you there and then change into your heels on arrival- this will also protect your shoes from damage!!! High heels lift you bum and make it swing- its why we wear them.... so if this brings extra attention it might not be a good idea for that reason too!

-          Make up. If you wear a lot of make up, you may stand out more, especially during the day. The heavier the make-up the looser the character of the girl wearing it..... or at least that’s how it seems to work in the minds of many here, unfortunately. Go light... or add the lipstick when you arrive at the club!




-          Body shape counts. In Cairo the curvy woman is the goddess. Showing off those curves or swinging them about will attract a lot of comments. In our lives we tend to try and dress to show off and accentuate our body shape. In Cairo during the day anyway, i try and do the opposite, and my curves aren’t big to begin with! I definitely dress down for Cairo streets... and it makes a difference!

Night time rules differ. If you are going to a westernised bar/club/ hotel/ restaurant you can wear whatever you want inside and you will often see very skimpy outfits. Just cover up to get there and home!!!

The best investments i ever made clothes wise in Cairo? Lots of large shawls and also very long, loose-fitting light cotton cardigan type tops which i usually pin onto me before i go out each night!


Tip for buying holiday clothes so you don't stick out so much- wear clothes you would normally wear at home- ie dont go out and buy a linen safari suit (unless thats your style in your own country of course!). Be mindful of sleeve length, body length of tops, neckline, and leg length of skirts , dresses and cropped trousers. Check material content (ie natural is better). Check transparency! Lacy/patterned bras that show through clothes are a bad idea too!


oh- and don't ever think you'll just buy important items here eg bikini or underwear- if you can find something you would be seen dead in and won't make your hair stand on end from static- chances are it has the 100% import tax on it!!

To attract a little less attention when you go out at night i know some women (Egyptians) who will remove chunky or shiny jewellery and only put it on once they arrive at their destination. If you are out and you see Egyptian girls dressed in a revealing, western manner- they probably came by car, they did not arrive by taxi!

A lot of what i read about for how to dress here comments on respecting people’s culture. There is an element to that of course. But really, for me its about reducing the hassle in the street. We will always get unwanted attention just because we are foreign, but you can reduce it by covering up somewhat. It goes to that same horrible WRONG argument you used to hear a lot in the west some years back that if a woman was wearing a mini skirt or something sexy like that, and attacked then she was 'asking for it' and somehow deserved it?  Also I notice if I cover, then the looks from women are usually admiring, but if i don’t they look at you like you are the devil herself. If anything bad was to happen, I’d like to think that the women at least would stand by me if I try to dress ‘normally’.  I hope i never have the occasion to test that theory!

Don’t panic if you are planning a trip to Cairo and this has worried you even more.... just think lots of layers!!! Oh and remember if you are coming in summer , although it may be 40deg in day and 30 at night... you will still need something to keep you warm in restaurants since they usually set their air conditioning units to 16 deg!!!!!

Like I said- i live in my jeans with a long length t-shirt. The same as I would probably wear in the UK. It might be Egypt- but you don’t have to mummify yourself!

The spec wearers of Cairo...

I have been told by a friend that i HAVE to write this as a blog entry since seemingly my logic isn’t obvious to everyone....

I walked into a shop yesterday and asked, in Arabic, the price of something. He looked very confused and i laughed and said i know you expected English and chatted away in English  for a bit with him. My friend was a little confused- “how did you know he spoke English”? My answer, “Well... it’s obvious isn’t it? He was wearing glasses......”

Ok- there were a few other telltale signs. His clothes, his manner, the way he was following the conversation not trying to butt into what we were saying.... but yes... my gut instinct was because of the specs.

I am probably very wrong statistically.... but it seems to me that the majority of spectacle wearers in Cairo speak English. Talk about stereotypes eh?! Yes I am guilty of it.

 I can only suppose I think this from my experience’s so far and have never before realised that is what I have always assumed!

My only reasoning for it goes like this:

Glasses are expensive to buy = therefore the wearer and or his/her family has money = therefore have given him/her a good education =and that always includes another language =and that language is usually English.

So, in my logic (which of course is often found to be faulty) if you are in Cairo, and need to speak English for some reason... ask the guy in glasses........!

Timekeeping in Cairo

The first time a man in Egypt said to me “ we should have breakfast together soon”... I freaked out. Until i realised he wasn’t implying that we spent the night together, but that we meet during the day for food since breakfast can be the name of the 1^stmeal of the day taken as late at 3 or 4pm! If somebody says”let’s do lunch sometime you never read anything seedy into it”. This is how a breakfast proposal should be taken here!

Also, when planning an event, night out, anything in fact-even work, exact times are rarely given. It is always left open in accommodate whatever‘happens’ to you during the day, which an exact time only being when someone says, “yes I’ll be with you in 5 mins” (which always means nearer 15 at least!). Also people will say, “ let’s do something later”... which could mean anything from a hours time (granted this is seldom the outcome) to 8pm, to 10 pm, to 2am..or later this week or month... it’s all very fluid. I really don’t know how things ever happened or people ever managed to meet with each other at all here in Cairo before the time of mobiles!

Oh, and if someone arranges to meet you 'later' but doesn't call... it means it was never a fixed arrangement anyway! In reality it actually means that something else (usually something better in their eyes) has come up. It is never meant as an insult. Be wary of any planned meeting times which end with 'Inshallah'. Always call to confirm! The real meaning of this word is 'god willing' but in reality is often used to imply that there is a good chance it will not happen....

At work I have to lie to my musicians about what time they have to be at the boat for (so that they are there in plenty of time before it sails!). I have learned to do this, but unfortunately the boat management in turn also do this to me... telling me the boat is due to sail before it actually is. Which is fine if you are late, since you aren’t in fact late, but hellish when you arrive early and discover you are super early! I once had a band arrive an hour after I had asked them to come... which was 15 mins after the guests were really supposed to come ( and 45 mins after the time the management told me they would come) and when i went nuts at them for being late one drummer told me “ but the guests aren’t here yet so what’s the problem? Obviously god loves you which is why the guests are late......” (I won’t write what i replied!)

At weddings people always state a time on the invitations at least an hour before they even really want people there... knowing that guests will be late. Recently when helping a friend plan her wedding , she was saying we’ll say 2 so they come for 3, and the ones who come by 3 or 4 are the real family and friends and the ones who turn up by 6 or 7 are the distant relatives etc anyway so it doesn’t matter?!!!

As for dinner arrangements, it’s always wise to check what time someone usually eats their dinner if you arrange to meet them for that. Dinner can be anything from 6/7pm- 2am depending on the lifestyle of the people in question. Certainly in my work it is unusual to eat the evening meal before midnight!

Friday daytime doesn’t actually start until after the prayers at 12/1pm. That is to say, of course it does, but if you are arranging to meet someone... never ever arrange a Friday ‘morning’!

Oh, and morning doesn’t end at midday.

Obviously, it ends at the afternoon prayer (the one which is mid way between the noon prayer and the sunset prayer).

So when greeting people you say “good morning” to them until about 3/4pm!

That’s me off to bed now... I feel like I need an early night. Its 2am. Night night!

Oh- and please forgive me my very unreligious approach to the 5 calls to prayer in Cairo;

Sunrise= bedtime

Midday= get up

Mid afternoon= breakfast

Sunset= drinks on balcony (assuming no work- if I have work, then run for taxi)

Last prayer= get ready to go partying (or get onto stage if at work!)

Cairo's timings don't suit everyone. If you plan to do lots in a day, you will often be disappointed since even seemingly easy jobs like posting a letter can take up a whole morning. Especially if there is traffic to contend with! In UK I was always taught not to phone people after 9pm, unless its been arranged previously, since they may be in bed. Here that idea is proposterous. In Cairo it is normal to call almost anytime, since the understanding is that if you want to sleep at 3pm, or 3am, either way, then you will put your mobile on silent. Many people I know come home from work between 3 and 6 pm and get 2-3 hours sleep before heading out for their night out. Every night of the week. Shift sleeping patterns are normal to many people!

Once you get used to Cairo's time keeping it usually becomes fairly easy to understand... however the times I now always get caught out are by those freaks of nature- the 'perfect' time keepers. Usually these people who meet you at exactly the pre arranged time because they assume that i will be punctual- being British. Oh dear..... I am sorry to you all if i have ever left you waiting for me at anytime!

I love Cairo- The city where no-one would be surprised or frown at me or criticise me for sleeping until 11am everyday.

See- even bedtime is fluid... my 'early' night is after 2.30am now!

Battle of wills... The ultimate Tabla solo

I have decided that the tabla solos i enjoy most are the ones where the Tabal is trying to push his rhythms, his ideas of what to do next, onto me, BUT is open minded enough to bend to my demands too. This creates a battle of the wills which gives the performance bite, I guess like a good Tango show!

I hate when a tabla solo becomes so rehearsed there is no room to break free. Even if i change my moves, often when you work with a drummer for a long time and usually they do the same drum solo over and over then they will go on and play the next rhythm in the 'routine' even if you try to dance something outwith the routine. I feel caged in when that happens...

I also get frustrated when the tabal, and this especially happens when you work with a new tabal, 'makes' you dance his music even when you try to suggest other things with your dance. I take it slow... building up the suspense then they get bored or something and just charge off into something fast that really wasn't needed at that moment in the show. Then I feel robbed.

The perfect combo... a strong, but interested tabal that actually wants to make you look good too... and isn't so narrow minded to think that he knows best in it all. Of course, I could never produce the music in the way he (usuallly all musicians in Egypt are male) does, but then I know the audience and my moves and how to pull that audience into the show in a way he doesn't. It must be a team effort.

The perfect conversation... when someone is able to listen and reply intelligently to what you say and then suggest ideas to take the conversation to the next level.

The tabla solo in my opinion should be exactly that! It is the most amazing feeling when it happens...... The adrenaline is at an all time high. 'Flying by the seat of your pants'.  I hope all dancers reading this have experienced this feeling... or get to experience it at some point in their life!

Payback time

I performed last night on the Nile Pharaoh for the 1st time since before Ramadan. It felt amazing to be back on stage on the Nile again. I really did miss it. I loved the support and enjoyment and appreciation i could see in my audiences eyes... Egyptian, Arabs and 'foreigners' alike.

I met one audience member who was also from Scotland... i loved the confusion that flashed over his face... she's the Bellydancer.... talking to me...... in Egypt, from Edinburgh... It always takes a while to sink in!!!

now for my first ever voluntary attempt at 'poetry' ............

Last night's little drama;

On stage, the dance is unfurling,
the audience watching
smiling
enjoying
The musicians focusing
working hard to stay together
working hard to stay with me

The magic is happening
but the dance floor fights back
payback for all the beating
from my feet
from my asaya
There's a nail sticking up out of the wood...
OH... that hurt
but no blood, deep breath.

Must avoid, MUST avoid...
try to focus on the music
without looking like the floor is winning,
It must not win
But
then
an evil, dreaded cucumber slice...
squished, pale and watery
harmless looking but treacherous
rejected from a passing plate,
designed to be my ruin,
designed to bring me down.

I step on it
I'm falling
no... no, I'm not
the floor won't get me
I swing my hip out far
then further, even more
My arms reach for the heavens
to the audience
praying these smiling powers will keep me upright
my spine is stretched, about to
PING
then counterbalance
with a smile on my face
the audience unaware of what could have been,
a new move is created

I take a breath
I win

I go to collect that saaidi stick
Payback time....

Visa's on Arrival .....

One day you do, next day you dont. Welcome to Egypt.

The Egyptian 'government' has now " shelved plans " for new visa regulations. It will continue to be possible to buy your entry visa at the airport on arrival. http://www.almasryalyoum.com/en/node/494934

Seems they have just realised that such a regulations would have a negative impact on tourism.... you don't say!

good........... shame they didn't consider this before announcing they were going to implement it and cause chaos in an already shaky touirst industry! Better late than never!

On a different topic all together, i bought a light for the ceiling in my dance studio in 'Hotel BellyLorna' today so that from now on I can dance, and teach Saaidi without fear of having glass rain down on me from the already broken from exuberant stick twirling, light fitting!!!!

Oh and the duck lost its quack, it was melted off... and then of course was burnt alive (I'm talking about a kettle here- no animals have actually been hurt!!!) and has now been replaced with a bright shiny dairy milk purple 'duck' which is not really a duck of course however 'kettle' in Hotel Bellylorna will be forever more be referred to as the duck in memory of the ducks who have losts their lives in the honourable duty supplying bellydancers from all around the world with their morning cuppas!!! (if you are still confused about all this talk of dead ducks- please check out an old blog entry from last year!  http://bellylorna.blogspot.com/2010/05/death-of-duck.html )

If you want to come and stay in Hotel Bellylorna... now that you can come and buy your visa on entry and partake of a cup of tea from the lovely new purple duck......and swing your Saaidi stick freely..... .

send me an email- Bellylorna@hotmail.com 

or check out my facebook page http://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=258340284200687&id=100000741536736#!/pages/Hotel-BellyLorna/103205596445518

August memories...

I had some really lovely times when i was home in UK this trip.

One of those was the Belly on the Beach day. (Thanks to the Dalriada for allowing us the use of their changing facilities and power point- not to mention the bar!)
 I invited my friends and family, students and other teachers along with their students and we had Egyptian music blasting out over the promenade and beach at Portobello, Edinburgh for the afternoon.

Here's the family....

and a fellow Scottish dancer who now lives in Egypt too, Sarannah....

and of course the lovely Eleanor Keen (also now a Cairo inhabitant!)  came up North to join us in some fun..... In this photo we are demonstrating Stacey's 'clubby book pose'. Some fabulous fife dancers are relaxing on the wall behind us enjoying the sunshine....

some of the top Scottsh dancers were there;
 Elspeth who brought along some of her students and lead a few dances....

......  Natalie....

... and Dawn.... to name but a few....



oh and the Tribal girls turned up too.............

and the girls, Isla and Mara, I used to dance with in the African dance group Afridonia way back when i first started to dance also joined in the fun with their kids too.....



 It was fabulous fun and the sun even came out to join us for most of it! It was such a luxury to be able to wear costume in public and dance outside without a single rude or sexual comment. Lots of smiles and lots of people joining in and enjoying the day. How dance is supposed to be. Friendly and fun!

and then- just in case you were thinking this couldn't have been Scotland..... it doesn't get much more Scottish than this, the dinner...... reduced and everything!!!!..............

The latest from Cairo.....

It was a hectic time in UK... hence my lack of Blog updates... but back to Cairo and trying to get on with 'normality'.

I want to put those worried by recent news reports at rest.

Cairo is unsettled- of course, they have no actual government in power... so thing cannot really get to any sort of 'normality' until after the elcetions in November. There were 'riots' last night in Cairo which were very localised beside the ministry of interior, a police station at giza and the Israeli embassy. Those riots were by people who are angry by govermental policies and want political reform- they weren't running riots in the streets burning down peoples houses and small businesses just to get their hands on a new phone of plasma TV.

The protests yesterday in Tahrir weren't troublesome at all, and it was only a fraction of those people who went to the embassy to tear down a wall that the army put up to 'protect' the embassy- the army however stood back and watched the protesters tear it down- not trying to stop them at all..... which is strange behaviour, no? anyway- there are of course lots of conspiracys- which in this country often are later revealed to be justified. Egypt is now in a state of emergancy- which might seem news to the rest of the world- but since they have been for the entirety of Murabaks 'reign' then its of no surprise to Egyptians. What it means in practical terms for life in Egypt... we shall see. so far the police holidays have all been cancelled- which is a good thing. the police are needed on the streets.

So- at the moment- things are happening... but as yet- Cairo is working fairly normally and is safe. Most of us go about our daily business as normal and are totally unaffected by what you all see in the news. (other than of course hoping and praying for a good outcome of it all for our country- yes i feel Egypt is my home...!) Dont worry - plus if you were intending on coming to visit- please still come (just maybe avoid Tahrir square on fridays!!!)

The only thing thats of EXTREME IMPORTANCE TO TOURISTS TO EGYPT is that you will very soon be unable to buy a entry visa on arrival. Which means you MUST apply to the Egyptian embassy in your own country in advance of your visit! http://www.almasryalyoum.com/en/node/494265

 I do not know if the new visa laws will apply to trips to Sinai or not ( since sharm does seems to have different visa regulations all of its own already and also since most tourists there come via organised tour groups which will be unaffected by the new changes!) but it would be best to check! Anything can happen here- the powers that be who have made this ruling may have their eyes opened by the tourist sector ( who are very distressed about anything which could harm Egypts tourism more http://www.almasryalyoum.com/en/node/494000.) and withdraw the law before its even put into practice.... but my advice if you intend to travel within the next few months to Egypt is GET YOUR VISA IN ADVANCE!!! 

Come ................. Egypt is wonderful... the touristic places are all well protected.... the streets are in my opinion still safe to walk in, I chose to live here.... . the people are friendly.... they just want a better life for themselves and their children...some may have extreme ways of trying to get this- but they have always been up against extreme policies. A country needs time and patience and education to change patterns of many lifetimes..... we need to have patience, tolerance and understanding and stand by Egyptians as they work out how to get and run the Egypt they dream of.

See you in Cairo soon!!!!

fringing it...

no- this is not a blog entry about making your own costumes....

this week i have been 'doing' the Edinburgh fringe festival.

Every august thousands of people flood to Edinburgh to enjoy and perform the arts. Comedy, theatre, dance music - its all there- non stop every day in almost every venue you can imagine. and this year a fantastic progression is the huge number of free fringe shows! I've been attending quite a few this week! Some ok, some awful and some amazing.

I loved 'The seven deadly sings' on at espionage in victoria street. a musical comedian who was intelligent and funny and talented and he was by far my favourite show of the fringe.

Another show that surprised me was 'the F word' in a venue on the north bridge. It was a group of girls, who sang and danced and mainly acted various stories of feminism. From foot binding to tribal nose cutting off, from domestic violence to mental illness. One actress actually had me in tears ... her acting was amazingly powerful... as was her message. the singing and dancing wasn't strong at all- but there were moments in the show that really blew me away and made it a show i got into for free- but actually if I had paid for it i would have considered it money well spent.

Last night i went to a ceilidh. SO much fun... I even met a couple of people there that i knew! 3 hours of fun jumping about to lively music... ahmed harfoush (the top jazz singer from cairo) was with us and was the star of the night.

today i am off to Dundee to teach a couple of workshops up there. Tomorrow i have my belly on the beach party on portobello prom (all welcome, just come along- 12-3pm by the dalriada), then next weekend i have glasgow workshop and show on the 27th and Edinburgh workshops on sunday the 28th. ( contact me asap if you want to reserve yourself a place on any of those...)

so the holiday was this week and now comes the 'work' - as much as dancing and teaching dance is ever 'work'. I know- I'm lucky!

London's burning.....

My parents have always been worried about my life in Cairo. They worry I will get killed crossing the streets after visiting Cairo a few years ago and being horrified during their numerous taxi rides, or that I’ll be abducted or even worse... that I might fall in love with an Egyptian man, marry him and end up living far away from them forever!

When the Egyptian young people took to the streets in Cairo and around Egypt to protest against police violence and prejudice, nobody thought it would end in a revolution which succeeded in bringing down a president of 30 years.... nobody thought these people would stand and be run over by vans and cars, brought down by tear gas and bullets... all because they truly, rightly believed they deserved better from their country and those who ruled it. Life was so bad that they were actually willing to give up their lives, and sadly many did. Some still are suffering for what they stand for, with many protesters still locked up and being charged by martial law even though they are from a self-appointed civilian ‘army’ rather than the one their government has always forced them into.



When I first heard the news of the current London Riots (which have now unfortunately, spread all across England) I found it really hard to find something in me to criticise them. For so many months now my heart and mind has been behind those who had to protest and were continually pushed back. Who were attacked then given the full blame, called lawless and troublemakers, for the youth on the streets- making their voices heard.

It has taken me all day of reading news and looking into how it all happened... into the ‘reasons’. There are none.......... absolutely none.... These are not protests...

.... these youths are nothing like the men (and women) of Egypt and Syria and Tunisia and Libya to name but a few countries where ‘riots’ have made headline news over the last 7 months. No these young people already have free education, free healthcare, freedom of speech and benefits to save them from the worst of poverty. These rioters of London, and other now ruined cities, know nothing of the extremes of life that are thrown at people who are imprisoned and killed just for attempting to create a political party. Who were tortured for their beliefs and for voicing them. Who have lived their lives in unwarranted fear of the police just going about their daily lives. In fact- I have to quote from twitter to make my point fully,

“ the youths of the Middle East rise up for basic freedoms... the youths of London (Birmingham , Manchester etc ) rise up for a HD ready 42” Plasma TV.”

Political soapbox aside.... my personal feelings have surprised me. I have had flashbacks to the levels of panic I felt throughout the early days in Cairo in the revolution when none of us had any idea how things would work out. I forgot how it felt to have that sort of tightness in the chest and stomach, that degree of uncertainty what will come next for your country and for the future for everyone in it .... At least in Cairo I had sympathy for the youths.... now I just have a fury that I cannot type fast enough about here at Edinburgh airport ...

Have to end this now........

..........” Boarding now at gate 12” .......... London calling.........

Socialising in Scotland and learning how to walk....

It's lovely to be back in Edinburgh to see everyone. So far I've had some time catching up with family and friends and it's been great. Looking forward to a lot more of that.

I have even organised a beach party on portobello promenade on sunday 21st aug (noon- 3pm by the Dalriada bar) to try and round up as many of my scottish friends and fmaily as possible, dancers and non dancers alike. Also attempting an Afridonia reunion ( I used to be a dancer in an African dance group in Edinburgh and I haven't seen all the girlsand guys in the group for ages!) at the same time...

If you can get yourself to portobello on that day- I strongly recommend it. Of course i can't guarentee sunshine, but if it rains I'll still be there, I'm Scottish- brought up on 'Umbrella held over the bbq' summer outings! (but if its wet from 12.30 since thats when the bar actually opens!!!) facebook events page is http://www.facebook.com/#!/event.php?eid=246783545344958

I'm looking forward to heading down to London this week for a week(arrive last tues night) I have a lot of friends down there I hope to see... workshops which are selling tickets fast.. 2 performance nights (detials will be advertised VERY soon) and private classes too.... not to mention a photoshoot with the fabulous Maani ! I dont know how I am going to fit it all in- but am looking forward to 'doing' London!!! for info on performances and workshops please go to http://saqarah.co.uk/Lorna-Saturday-Workshops-2011


Loving driving.... miss that in Cairo. But also enjoying walking.... it's not somethig thats is easy to do in Cairo. Apart from the heat, the traffic and the comments from the men in the streets, which can be offputting enough- Cairo has dreadful pavements (if there are any at all... when very high curbs) which means you end up looking at your feet all the time to mind your step and to ensure you dont make unwanted eye contact! I was walking down the pavement here in Edinburgh the other day and realsied that I was looking down the whole time and told myself off for it... 'you're in Uk now... enjoy the scenery- look around', I felt free and alive. The sun was shining and people had really made their gardens beautiful. The 'greenness' of everything was a cooling balm to my dust tired cairo eyes. It's true I didn't receive any unwanted attention, nor stumble on any hole in the pavement... but one horrible thing in UK that you DON'T get in Cairo... dogs dirt. I did manage to avoid it, but only just! People in Cairo seldom have dogs as pets, in fact many are very scared of dogs and see them as very unclean animals. If you have washed to say your prayers and a dog licks you, then you have to do the entire cleansing process again before you pray... ... so in the streets of Cairo, although often have a lot of rubbish on them, they are blissfully free from this curse of UK society. So, I'm back to scanning the pavements as I walk.... whichever of my 2 home countries I am in!